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Shawl in Staple Crochet and Knot Stitch (1912): vintage crochet pattern

A Shetland floss shawl of nine yard-long hairpin lace strips joined by bands of knot stitch, with a border of knot stitch and two more hairpin lace strips carried around the shawl, finished with long treble shells with picots. Originally published as "Shawl in Staple Crochet and Knot Stitch" in Priscilla Wool Crochet Book (ed. Lola Burks Hettich).

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Corner of the Shawl in Staple Crochet and Knot Stitch as photographed in the book
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Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelAdvanced
Yarn weightFine (#2)
Yardagethe book gives 4 skeins of Shetland floss; skein weight and yardage are not stated. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook3.5 mm
GaugeNo gauge printed. Printed check: the hairpin lace is worked on a staple 1¾ in (4.5 cm) wide.
Finished sizeNot printed. Made of 9 strips of hairpin lace each 1 yd (0.9 m) long, plus the border.
Timeabout 6 hours

Materials

  • Fine (CYC #2) soft, lofty wool yarn — approximate; the original was 4 skeins of Shetland floss (skein weight and length not printed)
  • Hairpin lace loom (staple) set to 1¾ in (4.5 cm) wide, at least 7 in (18 cm) long
  • Crochet hook (size not printed)
  • Tapestry needle
  • Hook: Start with 3.5 mm (US E-4) — approximate; no hook size or measurement is printed apart from the 1¾ in (4.5 cm) staple width
Smart Yarn Matcher

Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #2 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Lion Brand Coboo · 50% Cotton, 50% Bamboo

232 yds per skein · Silky breathable drape, lovely stitch shine

2 skeins required

approx. $$12.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
single crochet
treble crochet
stitch
repeat
row
loop

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Shawl in Staple Crochet and Knot Stitch", Priscilla Wool Crochet Book (ed. Lola Burks Hettich), The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, 1912. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: Four skeins Shetland floss; Wire staple 7 inches long, 1¾ inches wide, which can be made from the bail of a lard pail; Crochet-hook. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Stitches”, not by name: chain stitch (ch st, “make a series of loops, drawing each loop through the preceding one”) = ch; slip stitch (sl st, “insert the hook into the stitch, draw the wool through that stitch and through the wool on hook at the same time”) = sl st; single crochet (s c, “insert the hook, draw wool through, pass wool around hook (wool over), and draw it through both loops on the hook”) = sc; double crochet (d c, wool around the hook, insert, draw through, then through 2 loops twice) = dc; half double crochet (h d c, wool around the hook, insert, draw through, then “through all 3 loops at once”) = hdc; treble crochet (t c or tr c, wool around the hook twice, insert, draw through, then through 2 loops three times) = tr. For these stitches the 1912 American names already match modern US usage, so no stitch changes height. The book's long crochet (l c: wool around the hook, insert, draw through, then through 1 loop, then through 2 loops twice) is the modern extended double crochet; where used it is written “long crochet” with that definition.
  • Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: ch st = ch, s c = sc, d c = dc, h d c = hdc, t c / tr c = tr, st(s) = st(s), “wool over” / “thread over” / “pass the wool around the hook” = yo; “miss” = sk; loop = lp; “repeat” = rep; “beginning” = beg. “Widen” is written as increase and “narrow” as decrease, as defined in each design. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2d row”) are written Row 1, Row 2; where the book calls a circuit of a round piece a “row” the book's word is kept. “Plain” (a row or round with no increases or decreases) is kept as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Staple work (“also called hairpin work and Maltese crochet”) is modern hairpin lace, worked on a U-shaped wire staple (a hairpin lace loom or fork). The book's width is the distance between the prongs. Its method is quoted as the first steps of each design that uses it.
  • Modernisation note: Knot stitch is the book's own name for the long-loop single crochet mesh known today as Solomon's knot or love knot; its definition is quoted as the first step of each design that uses it. As the book says, “some crocheters refer to it as knot stitch, and others to knot stitch as just half the group”; the book's word “group” (2 knots) is kept.
  • Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation.
  • Modernisation note: Hooks are printed as bone hooks described only as fine, medium-sized or coarse, or by an unstated numbering system, with no diameters, so no exact metric size can be read from the book. The suggested modern hook is an approximate starting point chosen for the yarn weight and tied to any printed measurement.
  • Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed for this design; work a swatch and match any printed measurement (given in the modern gauge line) before starting.
  • Modernisation note: The yarns are 1912 trade descriptions with no exact modern equivalent, and the book prints no yardage or skein/ball weights except where quoted in the materials. The CYC weights given are approximations only: Saxony (a fine, firm yarn) and 2-ply (single) zephyr as super fine (CYC #1); ice wool (a very fine, lustrous yarn) as super fine (CYC #1); Shetland floss (a soft, lofty yarn) and eiderdown wool as fine (CYC #2) — lofty yarns and to be matched by gauge or measurement rather than by weight; 4-ply (split) zephyr, 4-fold Germantown and Spanish yarn as light (CYC #3); 8-fold Germantown and knitting worsted as medium (CYC #4).
  • Modernisation note: The book's abbreviation “k s” is written “knot stitch”; “single k s” is one knot (half a group).
  • Modernisation note: The staple “which can be made from the bail of a lard pail” is replaced in the modern materials by a hairpin lace loom set to the printed width.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the book does not say which colour or whether any part is worked in a contrast; it photographs as white.
  • Modernisation note: Check: Border Rows 5–6 are read as joining the first border lace strip (Row 5) and then the second lace strip (Row 6); the book calls both “lace” and “border”. Follow the photograph of the corner.
  • Modernisation note: Check: “7 long tr” is not defined further; ordinary tr, made loosely, are assumed. “fastened in tr st to form a picot” is read as each ch 3 closed back into the top of the tr just made.
  • Modernisation note: Finishing line (weaving in ends) added. Metric conversions added.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 4 done (0%)

Staple Lace Strips

0 of 4 done
  1. Staple work (hairpin lace; the book's method): Use a staple (hairpin lace loom) of stiff wire 6 in (15 cm) long, with the width between the prongs as directed. Tie the yarn around the open end and let the finished work slip toward the closed end. When the staple is full, slip the work off and roll it up, tying it to the staple to keep it from twisting, first slipping the last 2 lps on both sides back onto the staple.
    Mark row complete
  2. Staple work, working: Hold the staple so there is a right and a left prong. Insert the hook under the lp on the left prong and draw the yarn through to make a ch; this commences the work. Slipping the hook over the right prong, turn the staple over toward you, wrapping the yarn around the left prong as you do so (the left prong is now the right one). Always insert the hook under the yarn on the left prong from the side toward you; yo and draw through (2 lps on hook); yo and draw through both lps (as in sc). Rep.
    Mark row complete
  3. Staple work, note: For a heavier center, insert the hook under the left prong twice, making 2 sc.
    Mark row complete
  4. Make 9 pieces of staple lace on the 1¾ in (4.5 cm) staple, each 1 yd (0.9 m) long.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Staple work (hairpin lace; the book's method): Use a staple (hairpin lace loom) of stiff wire 6 in (15 cm) long, with the width between the prongs as directed. Tie the yarn around the open end and let the finished work slip toward the closed end. When the staple is full, slip the work off and roll it up, tying it to the staple to keep it from twisting, first slipping the last 2 lps on both sides back onto the staple.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Shawl in Staple Crochet and Knot Stitch (1912) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Stoles & Shawls

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Knot-Stitch Bands (joining the strips)
  • Border
  • Finishing

Included with 31 patterns for $12 — $0.39 per pattern.

See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage stoles and shawls collection: a lacy crochet stole in soft cream yarn

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the Shawl in Staple Crochet and Knot Stitch pattern from?

It was published as "Shawl in Staple Crochet and Knot Stitch" in Priscilla Wool Crochet Book (ed. Lola Burks Hettich) by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1912. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Shawl in Staple Crochet and Knot Stitch?

fine (#2) yarn. Not printed — the book gives 4 skeins of Shetland floss; skein weight and yardage are not stated.

What hook should I use?

Start with 3.5 mm (US E-4) — approximate; no hook size or measurement is printed apart from the 1¾ in (4.5 cm) staple width Gauge: No gauge printed. Printed check: the hairpin lace is worked on a staple 1¾ in (4.5 cm) wide.

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