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Ripple Shawl in Knot Stitch (1912): vintage crochet pattern
A circular white Shetland floss shawl worked outward from a ring almost entirely in knot stitch, widened in regular sections, with a colored picot border, a white rippled band and a scalloped shell edge outlined in knot stitch and colored yarn.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Advanced |
| Yarn weight | Fine (#2) |
| Yardage | the book gives 9 skeins White and 2 skeins colored Shetland floss; skein weight and yardage are not stated. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 4 mm |
| Gauge | No stitch gauge printed. Printed check: each knot stitch in the body is about ¾ in (2 cm) long (or 1 in / 2.5 cm if preferred). |
| Finished size | As printed: 25 in (63.5 cm) from the neck to the edge, with a sweep of 26 ft (7.9 m). Make more rounds before the border for a deeper shawl. |
| Time | about 7 hours |
Materials
- Fine (CYC #2) soft, lofty wool yarn — approximate; the original was Shetland floss: 9 skeins White and 2 skeins colored (skein weight and length not printed)
- Crochet hook (original: medium-sized bone hook)
- Tapestry needle
- Hook: Start with 4 mm (US G-6) — approximate; the hook matters less than keeping each knot stitch about ¾ in (2 cm) long, as printed
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #2 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Lion Brand Coboo · 50% Cotton, 50% Bamboo
232 yds per skein · Silky breathable drape, lovely stitch shine
2 skeins required
approx. $$12.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- slip stitch
- single crochet
- double crochet
- treble crochet
- stitch
- stitches
- repeat
- row
Notes before you start
- Source: "Ripple Shawl", Priscilla Wool Crochet Book (ed. Lola Burks Hettich), The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, 1912. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: 9 skeins of white and 2 of colored Shetland floss; Medium-sized bone hook. Gauge: Not given. “The k sts in body of shawl are about three-quarters of an inch long. If desired, they might be made one inch long from the directions given.”.
- Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Stitches”, not by name: chain stitch (ch st, “make a series of loops, drawing each loop through the preceding one”) = ch; slip stitch (sl st, “insert the hook into the stitch, draw the wool through that stitch and through the wool on hook at the same time”) = sl st; single crochet (s c, “insert the hook, draw wool through, pass wool around hook (wool over), and draw it through both loops on the hook”) = sc; double crochet (d c, wool around the hook, insert, draw through, then through 2 loops twice) = dc; half double crochet (h d c, wool around the hook, insert, draw through, then “through all 3 loops at once”) = hdc; treble crochet (t c or tr c, wool around the hook twice, insert, draw through, then through 2 loops three times) = tr. For these stitches the 1912 American names already match modern US usage, so no stitch changes height. The book's long crochet (l c: wool around the hook, insert, draw through, then through 1 loop, then through 2 loops twice) is the modern extended double crochet; where used it is written “long crochet” with that definition.
- Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: ch st = ch, s c = sc, d c = dc, h d c = hdc, t c / tr c = tr, st(s) = st(s), “wool over” / “thread over” / “pass the wool around the hook” = yo; “miss” = sk; loop = lp; “repeat” = rep; “beginning” = beg. “Widen” is written as increase and “narrow” as decrease, as defined in each design. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2d row”) are written Row 1, Row 2; where the book calls a circuit of a round piece a “row” the book's word is kept. “Plain” (a row or round with no increases or decreases) is kept as printed.
- Modernisation note: Knot stitch is the book's own name for the long-loop single crochet mesh known today as Solomon's knot or love knot; its definition is quoted as the first step of each design that uses it. As the book says, “some crocheters refer to it as knot stitch, and others to knot stitch as just half the group”; the book's word “group” (2 knots) is kept.
- Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation.
- Modernisation note: Hooks are printed as bone hooks described only as fine, medium-sized or coarse, or by an unstated numbering system, with no diameters, so no exact metric size can be read from the book. The suggested modern hook is an approximate starting point chosen for the yarn weight and tied to any printed measurement.
- Modernisation note: The yarns are 1912 trade descriptions with no exact modern equivalent, and the book prints no yardage or skein/ball weights except where quoted in the materials. The CYC weights given are approximations only: Saxony (a fine, firm yarn) and 2-ply (single) zephyr as super fine (CYC #1); ice wool (a very fine, lustrous yarn) as super fine (CYC #1); Shetland floss (a soft, lofty yarn) and eiderdown wool as fine (CYC #2) — lofty yarns and to be matched by gauge or measurement rather than by weight; 4-ply (split) zephyr, 4-fold Germantown and Spanish yarn as light (CYC #3); 8-fold Germantown and knitting worsted as medium (CYC #4).
- Modernisation note: The book's “k st” is written “knot st”; its “double knot stitch” is read as a full group of knot stitch (2 knots), and “fasten down” / “fasten in” as the sc that anchors a knot stitch to the row below.
- Modernisation note: The book calls the rounds of this circular shawl “rows”; its word is kept.
- Modernisation note: The book's introduction advises that the stitch be made rather loosely but the knot drawn tightly, for a fluffy shawl that keeps its shape and cannot sag.
- Modernisation note: Check: in Row 5, “2 plain” is read as 2 knot stitches fastened as usual; the book says the 2 ch and the 3 dc make the 4 widenings. How the dc is anchored in later widening rows is not explained beyond “3 d c in 3 d c of last row”.
- Modernisation note: Check: the number of rounds between the 40-knot round, the 8-widening rounds and the 16-widening rounds is set only by the stitch counts printed (10 and 22 sts between widenings).
- Modernisation note: Check: the colored yarn is not given a color name; the second picot row and the shells do not say which color is used — the photograph shows a mostly white border.
- Modernisation note: Check: “fasten down to k with sl st” and “fasten to first t c of shell with sl st” use a slip stitch where the body uses sc; kept as printed.
- Modernisation note: Finishing line (weaving in ends) added. Metric conversions added.
Row progress: 0 of 12 done (0%)
Center and Body (White)
0 of 12 done- Knot stitch (the book's definition): Draw a lp out to about ½ in (13 mm), yo and draw through, forming a long ch; insert the hook in this long ch, separating the lp first drawn out from the strand formed when the yarn was drawn through, and work 1 sc. Draw out another lp the same length, yo and draw through, sc as before; sk the required number of sts in the foundation and sc in the next. This is a group of knot stitch (2 knots).Mark row complete
- Knot stitch, end of row: Work 1 group and a half, turn, and sc on each side of the sc at the center, or catch by sc into the top of the same, as the directions call for.Mark row complete
- Ch 5 and join.Mark row complete
- Row 1: Work 12 dc in the ring.Mark row complete
- Row 2: Work 12 double knot stitches in the 12 dc of last row.Mark row complete
- Rows 3 and 4: Plain (catching knot st into knot st in the usual way).Mark row complete
- Row 5: Ch 2, make a double knot st, fasten in next st, *2 plain, 1 dc between the next 2 knot sts, rep from * all the way around.Mark row complete
- The 2 ch and the 3 dc make 4 widenings in this row. Rep the above row, always making 2 ch at the beg of a row and 3 dc in the 3 dc of last row, till there are 40 knot sts, or 10 sts between widenings.Mark row complete
- Next row: Begin to widen 8 times in a row: ch 2, then 5 double knot sts, then widen between the 5th and 6th st; rep all the way around.Mark row complete
- Rep the above row till there are 22 sts between widenings.Mark row complete
- Next row: Begin to widen 16 times in a row, widening in the usual way: work 11 knot sts, and widen between the 11th and 12th sts; rep all the way around.Mark row complete
- Rep this last row till the shawl is the desired depth.Mark row complete
Working on:
Knot stitch (the book's definition): Draw a lp out to about ½ in (13 mm), yo and draw through, forming a long ch; insert the hook in this long ch, separating the lp first drawn out from the strand formed when the yarn was drawn through, and work 1 sc. Draw out another lp the same length, yo and draw through, sc as before; sk the required number of sts in the foundation and sc in the next. This is a group of knot stitch (2 knots).
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Ripple Shawl in Knot Stitch (1912) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Stoles & Shawls
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Border
- Finishing
Included with 31 patterns for $12 — $0.39 per pattern.

Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Ripple Shawl pattern from?
It was published as "Ripple Shawl" in Priscilla Wool Crochet Book (ed. Lola Burks Hettich) by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1912. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Ripple Shawl?
fine (#2) yarn. Not printed — the book gives 9 skeins White and 2 skeins colored Shetland floss; skein weight and yardage are not stated.
What hook should I use?
Start with 4 mm (US G-6) — approximate; the hook matters less than keeping each knot stitch about ¾ in (2 cm) long, as printed Gauge: No stitch gauge printed. Printed check: each knot stitch in the body is about ¾ in (2 cm) long (or 1 in / 2.5 cm if preferred).







