Free preview · full pattern in the Vintage Crochet Stoles & Shawls
Square Shawl in Long Chain and Double Crochet Points (1912): vintage crochet pattern
A large square Shetland floss shawl worked outward from the center in “points” of long chain stitches and loose double crochet, with a point added on each side every round, bordered with rows of joined double crochet shells with knot stitch and a scalloped edge.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Advanced |
| Yarn weight | Fine (#2) |
| Yardage | the book gives 14 or 15 skeins of Shetland floss; skein weight and yardage are not stated. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 4 mm |
| Gauge | No stitch gauge printed. Printed check: each long ch is about ½ in (13 mm) long, and each dc is made loosely to equal it. |
| Finished size | As printed: 1½ yd (1.4 m) square with 14 or 15 skeins; make it as large as desired before the border. |
| Time | about 4 hours |
Materials
- Fine (CYC #2) soft, lofty wool yarn — approximate; the original was Shetland floss, 14 or 15 skeins for a 1½ yd (1.4 m) square shawl (skein weight and length not printed)
- Crochet hook (original: medium-sized bone hook)
- Tapestry needle
- Hook: Start with 4 mm (US G-6) — approximate; the long chain stitches are drawn out to about ½ in (13 mm), as printed
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #2 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Lion Brand Coboo · 50% Cotton, 50% Bamboo
232 yds per skein · Silky breathable drape, lovely stitch shine
2 skeins required
approx. $$12.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- single crochet
- double crochet
- stitch
- stitches
- repeat
- row
Notes before you start
- Source: "Shawl", Priscilla Wool Crochet Book (ed. Lola Burks Hettich), The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, 1912. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: Fourteen or fifteen skeins of Shetland floss for a shawl 1½ yards square; Medium-sized bone crochet-hook. Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Stitches”, not by name: chain stitch (ch st, “make a series of loops, drawing each loop through the preceding one”) = ch; slip stitch (sl st, “insert the hook into the stitch, draw the wool through that stitch and through the wool on hook at the same time”) = sl st; single crochet (s c, “insert the hook, draw wool through, pass wool around hook (wool over), and draw it through both loops on the hook”) = sc; double crochet (d c, wool around the hook, insert, draw through, then through 2 loops twice) = dc; half double crochet (h d c, wool around the hook, insert, draw through, then “through all 3 loops at once”) = hdc; treble crochet (t c or tr c, wool around the hook twice, insert, draw through, then through 2 loops three times) = tr. For these stitches the 1912 American names already match modern US usage, so no stitch changes height. The book's long crochet (l c: wool around the hook, insert, draw through, then through 1 loop, then through 2 loops twice) is the modern extended double crochet; where used it is written “long crochet” with that definition.
- Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: ch st = ch, s c = sc, d c = dc, h d c = hdc, t c / tr c = tr, st(s) = st(s), “wool over” / “thread over” / “pass the wool around the hook” = yo; “miss” = sk; loop = lp; “repeat” = rep; “beginning” = beg. “Widen” is written as increase and “narrow” as decrease, as defined in each design. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2d row”) are written Row 1, Row 2; where the book calls a circuit of a round piece a “row” the book's word is kept. “Plain” (a row or round with no increases or decreases) is kept as printed.
- Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation.
- Modernisation note: Hooks are printed as bone hooks described only as fine, medium-sized or coarse, or by an unstated numbering system, with no diameters, so no exact metric size can be read from the book. The suggested modern hook is an approximate starting point chosen for the yarn weight and tied to any printed measurement.
- Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed for this design; work a swatch and match any printed measurement (given in the modern gauge line) before starting.
- Modernisation note: The yarns are 1912 trade descriptions with no exact modern equivalent, and the book prints no yardage or skein/ball weights except where quoted in the materials. The CYC weights given are approximations only: Saxony (a fine, firm yarn) and 2-ply (single) zephyr as super fine (CYC #1); ice wool (a very fine, lustrous yarn) as super fine (CYC #1); Shetland floss (a soft, lofty yarn) and eiderdown wool as fine (CYC #2) — lofty yarns and to be matched by gauge or measurement rather than by weight; 4-ply (split) zephyr, 4-fold Germantown and Spanish yarn as light (CYC #3); 8-fold Germantown and knitting worsted as medium (CYC #4).
- Modernisation note: The book's “long ch st” (a lp drawn out to about ½ in before the yarn is drawn through) and “short ch st” (an ordinary ch) are kept and defined in the first step.
- Modernisation note: The border's knot stitch is defined in the row where it is used (a lp drawn out nearly ½ in with a sc worked between the st and the drawn yarn), as in the book's general Knot Stitch page. The 2 dc “closed into 1 st at top” is a modern dc2tog worked into one place; it is kept in words.
- Modernisation note: Long paragraphs of Row 2 are split over several lines at the book's own asterisks.
- Modernisation note: Check: in Border Row 2 the shell is read as (2 dc closed together, ch 1, 2 dc closed together, knot stitch) worked into each sc of Border Row 1; the book does not repeat how the 4 later shell rows are anchored.
- Modernisation note: Check: “working scallop in every alternate shell” — the book's instruction to work in “next shell” and around is kept as printed.
- Modernisation note: Finishing line (weaving in ends) added. Metric conversions added.
Row progress: 0 of 7 done (0%)
Center
0 of 7 done- Long ch st (the book's stitch): Draw out the lp on the hook until it is about ½ in (13 mm) long before drawing the yarn through it. A short ch st is an ordinary ch.Mark row complete
- Row 1: 1 short ch; *1 long ch, 1 short ch, sc back into the short ch at the beg*. Rep from * to * twice more; then 1 long ch, 1 dc into the same st with the 3 sc. Make this dc rather loosely, so that it will equal the long ch in length. These 4 points are the beginning of the 4 corners of the shawl.Mark row complete
- Row 2: 1 long ch, dc of equal length back into the top of the dc made at the end of Row 1. It is important that the hook be inserted in exactly the same place each time at this corner of the work, so that the corner where each row is commenced will look as nearly like the others as possible. Insert it straight through the st at the top of the dc with 2 threads in front of the hook.Mark row complete
- Row 2, continued: *Now make 1 dc forward into the top of the next point. At these points be careful to have the hook placed under the 2 upper threads of the short ch — that is, the 2 that come through the long ch — leaving the one that was drawn through in working the short ch below the hook. (This keeps the long ch sts at the corners turned flat throughout the work, making them look more nearly like the other part of the work than they would if the hook were inserted straight through the short st from front to back, instead of under it as described.)Mark row complete
- Row 2, continued: After working the dc, work 1 long ch, sc in the same st with the dc. Now widen at the corner by working 1 long ch, 1 short ch, 1 long ch, sc in the same st with the last sc; 1 long ch, dc back into the st with the sc.* Rep from * to * twice more; dc forward into the last corner, inserting the hook in the same place where it was inserted in making the first dc of this row, 1 long ch, dc in the same place.Mark row complete
- Row 3: Same as Row 2, making 2 points between the corners instead of 1 as in Row 2, and widening at each corner as in the last row. Be careful to make the long ch sts and the dc of equal length.Mark row complete
- Following rows: Each row is now made in the same way, increasing 1 point on each side between the corners. There will be 1 point between corners in Row 2, 2 points in Row 3, 3 in Row 4, and so on.Mark row complete
Working on:
Long ch st (the book's stitch): Draw out the lp on the hook until it is about ½ in (13 mm) long before drawing the yarn through it. A short ch st is an ordinary ch.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Square Shawl in Long Chain and Double Crochet Points (1912) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Stoles & Shawls
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Border
- Finishing
Included with 31 patterns for $12 — $0.39 per pattern.

Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Shawl pattern from?
It was published as "Shawl" in Priscilla Wool Crochet Book (ed. Lola Burks Hettich) by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1912. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Shawl?
fine (#2) yarn. Not printed — the book gives 14 or 15 skeins of Shetland floss; skein weight and yardage are not stated.
What hook should I use?
Start with 4 mm (US G-6) — approximate; the long chain stitches are drawn out to about ½ in (13 mm), as printed Gauge: No stitch gauge printed. Printed check: each long ch is about ½ in (13 mm) long, and each dc is made loosely to equal it.







