Free preview · full pattern in the Vintage Crochet Hats, Bags & Accessories

Doll's Blanket with Silk Edge (1914): vintage crochet pattern

A baby doll's blanket of silk-warp flannel with a two-round scalloped border of light blue crochet silk worked straight into the cloth. Originally published as "Blanket for Baby Doll (Doll's Blanket with Silk Edge)" in Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston in 1914, it is now in the public domain.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

No. 506, Doll's Blanket with Silk Edge, and Fig. 13, detail of the edge
White · Light blueSave to Pinterest
Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelEasy
Yarn weightLace (#0)
YardageNot printed. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook1.5 mm
GaugeNo gauge printed. Space the stitches so the edge lies flat.
Finished sizeA 25 in (63.5 cm) square of flannel, as printed.
Timeabout 2 hours

Materials

  • 25 in (63.5 cm) square of fine wool or wool-blend flannel (the original was silk-warp flannel), edges finished
  • Light blue silk crochet thread, heavy (about size 10–20)
  • Tapestry needle
  • Hook: Start with 1.5 mm (US steel 7) — approximate; choose a hook that pierces the flannel easily
Smart Yarn Matcher

Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

Compare all yarns →

This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
slip stitch
single crochet
double crochet
stitch
repeat
round
chain space

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Blanket for Baby Doll (Doll's Blanket with Silk Edge)" (No. 506), Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson), The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston, 1914. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: a twenty-five-inch square of silk-warp flannel; heavy crochet silk in light blue; No. 8 steel crochet-needle. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own definitions (pages 3–6), not by name: chain stitch (“ch”) = ch; slip stitch (“sl” — “made with the needle in the loop, a loop pulled through the work and through the loop on the needle”) = sl st; double crochet (“d” — “made with the needle in the loop, a loop drawn through the work and another loop drawn through both”) = modern US single crochet (sc); treble crochet (“t” — “another loop over the needle, a loop drawn through the work (making three loops on the needle), then a loop is drawn through two on the needle, leaving two loops on the needle; another loop drawn through these two finishes the treble”) = modern US double crochet (dc); double treble crochet (“d t” — “two loops over the needle, one loop drawn through the work, when there will be four loops on the needle”, then worked off two at a time three times) = modern US treble crochet (tr). The 1914 names are one step taller than modern US names (they match modern UK usage), so every printed “d” is written sc, every “t” dc and every “d t” tr.
  • Modernisation note: The book's words and letters are written as modern US abbreviations: ch = ch, sl = sl st, d = sc, t = dc, d t = tr; “needle”, “crochet-needle” or “hook” = hook; “thread over needle (hook)” = yo; “draw thread through (the work)” = draw up a lp; “miss” = sk; “over ch” or “over each chain” = in the ch-sp; “fasten the thread” = fasten off; ordinal names (“1st row”, “2d round”) = Row 1, Rnd 2. Repeats between stars are written “*… ; rep from *” as printed; the book's own rule: “When you see the little stars before and after any directions, whether long or short, the work directed is to be repeated once, or more times.”
  • Modernisation note: The book's running paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation. Cross-references to other pages of the book are replaced by the stitch lesson itself, copied at the start of the design.
  • Modernisation note: Hooks are printed as 1914 steel crochet-needle numbers (the book: “from No. 1 (a very large hook, almost as large as a medium-size bone hook) to No. 14, which is very fine”) or as bone, rubber and amber hooks of “small” or “medium” size, with no diameters. The modern hook given is an approximate starting point only, chosen for the thread or yarn and tied to any printed measurement.
  • Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed anywhere in the book; work a swatch and match any printed finished measurement.
  • Modernisation note: Silk-warp flannel and “heavy crochet silk” are 1914 descriptions; modern equivalents are approximate.
  • Modernisation note: Yardage is never printed; the book gives balls, skeins, spools or hanks only (or nothing), so no yardage is estimated.
  • Modernisation note: The book calls the two rounds “rows”; they are worked all around, so they are written Rnd 1 and Rnd 2.
  • Modernisation note: Check: Rnd 2 is printed “Three ch, 2 t over 1st ch below, 1 d into the 2d ch, 3 ch, 2 t over same ch with the double”; it is not stated whether each repeat moves on by one or two ch-sps. The detail photograph (Fig. 13) shows small scallops; follow it.
  • Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 4 done (0%)

Stitches (the book's lessons)

0 of 4 done
  1. Chain (ch), the book's lesson: the hook, first through a loop, is caught under the thread over your left forefinger, and catching a loop there it is pulled back through the loop on the hook. Repeat as long as the chain is to be made.
    Mark row complete
  2. Slip stitch (sl st; the book's “sl”): with the hook in the loop, pull a loop through the work and through the loop on the hook. A single sl st is often made to fasten tightly.
    Mark row complete
  3. Single crochet (sc; the book's “double crochet”, “d”): with the hook in the loop, draw a loop through the work, then draw another loop through both loops on the hook.
    Mark row complete
  4. Double crochet (dc; the book's “treble crochet”, “t”): yo, insert the hook, draw a loop through the work (3 lps on hook); draw a loop through 2 lps (2 lps on hook); draw another loop through these 2. When starting a row of dc, ch 3 to bring the hook to the top of the row.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Chain (ch), the book's lesson: the hook, first through a loop, is caught under the thread over your left forefinger, and catching a loop there it is pulled back through the loop on the hook. Repeat as long as the chain is to be made.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Doll's Blanket with Silk Edge (1914) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Hats, Bags & Accessories

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Border (2 rounds)
  • Finishing

Included with 202 patterns for $12 — $0.06 per pattern.

See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage hats and accessories collection: a crochet hat, purse and slippers

Errata

No corrections have been published for this pattern. Found a mistake? Tell us and we will log the fix here with a date.

Project log

Your notes on this pattern

Keep track of the yarn, hook and changes you used. Saved in this browser only — nobody else can see it.

Frequently asked questions

Where is the Blanket for Baby Doll (Doll's Blanket with Silk Edge) pattern from?

It was published as "Blanket for Baby Doll (Doll's Blanket with Silk Edge)" in Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston in 1914. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Blanket for Baby Doll (Doll's Blanket with Silk Edge)?

Heavy silk crochet thread, about size 10–20 (approximate). Not printed.

What hook should I use?

Start with 1.5 mm (US steel 7) — approximate; choose a hook that pierces the flannel easily Gauge: No gauge printed. Space the stitches so the edge lies flat.

You might also like