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Doll's Pincushion in Afghan Stitch (1914): vintage crochet pattern
A small square pincushion made from the yarn left over from the doll's carriage afghan: a white afghan-stitch top cross-stitched with the rose pattern, a blue back, and a single crochet and chain-loop edge in light old rose. Originally published as "Doll's Pincushion" in Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston in 1914.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Easy |
| Yarn weight | Light (#3) |
| Yardage | leftovers from the afghan. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 4 mm |
| Gauge | No gauge printed. |
| Finished size | Not printed; each piece is 22 stitches wide and 16 ribs long. |
| Time | about 3 hours |
Materials
- Light (CYC #3) wool yarn left from the doll's carriage afghan: White, Blue, Old Rose, Light Old Rose and Light Dull Green
- Tunisian (afghan) hook, about 4 mm, and a crochet hook of similar size
- Soft wool or unravelled yarn for filling
- Tapestry needle
- Hook: Start with a 4 mm (US G-6) Tunisian hook — approximate, as for the afghan
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #3 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Caron Simply Soft Light · 100% Premium Acrylic
330 yds per skein · Gentle sheen, ultra soft against skin
2 skeins required
approx. $$11.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- single crochet
- stitch
- stitches
- loop
- skip
- repeat
- round
Notes before you start
- Source: "Doll's Pincushion" (No. 513), Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson), The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston, 1914. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: the little balls of each color left from the Afghan for Doll's Carriage, No. 503 (Germantown, fourfold: white, blue, old rose, light old rose, light dull green); afghan needle as for No. 503; soft wool, or yarn that has been raveled out, for filling. Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own definitions (pages 3–6), not by name: chain stitch (“ch”) = ch; slip stitch (“sl” — “made with the needle in the loop, a loop pulled through the work and through the loop on the needle”) = sl st; double crochet (“d” — “made with the needle in the loop, a loop drawn through the work and another loop drawn through both”) = modern US single crochet (sc); treble crochet (“t” — “another loop over the needle, a loop drawn through the work (making three loops on the needle), then a loop is drawn through two on the needle, leaving two loops on the needle; another loop drawn through these two finishes the treble”) = modern US double crochet (dc); double treble crochet (“d t” — “two loops over the needle, one loop drawn through the work, when there will be four loops on the needle”, then worked off two at a time three times) = modern US treble crochet (tr). The 1914 names are one step taller than modern US names (they match modern UK usage), so every printed “d” is written sc, every “t” dc and every “d t” tr.
- Modernisation note: The book's words and letters are written as modern US abbreviations: ch = ch, sl = sl st, d = sc, t = dc, d t = tr; “needle”, “crochet-needle” or “hook” = hook; “thread over needle (hook)” = yo; “draw thread through (the work)” = draw up a lp; “miss” = sk; “over ch” or “over each chain” = in the ch-sp; “fasten the thread” = fasten off; ordinal names (“1st row”, “2d round”) = Row 1, Rnd 2. Repeats between stars are written “*… ; rep from *” as printed; the book's own rule: “When you see the little stars before and after any directions, whether long or short, the work directed is to be repeated once, or more times.”
- Modernisation note: Afghan stitch as taught in the book (draw a loop through each chain, keeping all loops on the hook; then draw a loop through the last loop on the hook and through two at a time until one remains; next row, draw the loops through “each of the stitches that stand upright”; the work is never turned) = modern Tunisian simple stitch (Tss). The book counts the forward pass and the return pass as two rows, which make one “rib”; one rib is therefore one modern Tunisian row (forward and return pass). The book's word “rib” is kept.
- Modernisation note: The book's running paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation. Cross-references to other pages of the book are replaced by the stitch lesson itself, copied at the start of the design.
- Modernisation note: Hooks are printed as 1914 steel crochet-needle numbers (the book: “from No. 1 (a very large hook, almost as large as a medium-size bone hook) to No. 14, which is very fine”) or as bone, rubber and amber hooks of “small” or “medium” size, with no diameters. The modern hook given is an approximate starting point only, chosen for the thread or yarn and tied to any printed measurement.
- Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed anywhere in the book; work a swatch and match any printed finished measurement.
- Modernisation note: The cross-stitch embroidery is worked from the book's printed block pattern (see the page image); the book refers the reader to a separate cross-stitch book for the method. The chart is not re-drawn here.
- Modernisation note: The book calls the two edge rounds “rows”; they are worked around the cushion, so they are written Edge Rnd 1 and 2.
- Modernisation note: Check: on the open fourth side the book does not say whether the light old rose round is worked into the top only; it is closed by overcasting afterwards.
- Modernisation note: Check: the starting chain for each piece is not printed; ch 22 as for the afghan stripes.
Row progress: 0 of 5 done (0%)
Stitches (the book's lessons)
0 of 5 done- Chain (ch), the book's lesson: the hook, first through a loop, is caught under the thread over your left forefinger, and catching a loop there it is pulled back through the loop on the hook. Repeat as long as the chain is to be made.Mark row complete
- Single crochet (sc; the book's “double crochet”, “d”): with the hook in the loop, draw a loop through the work, then draw another loop through both loops on the hook.Mark row complete
- Afghan stitch (modern Tunisian simple stitch), forward pass: chain as directed, turn, sk 1 ch and draw up a lp through each of the other ch, keeping all lps on the hook.Mark row complete
- Afghan stitch, return pass: draw a lp through the last lp on the hook, then draw a lp through 2 lps each time until only 1 lp remains on the hook. Do not turn; the work is all done from the right side. The two passes make one rib.Mark row complete
- Afghan stitch, next forward pass: with 1 lp remaining on the hook, draw up a lp through each of the upright stitches until all the lps are on the hook again; work them off as before. Rep these two passes as long as needed.Mark row complete
Working on:
Chain (ch), the book's lesson: the hook, first through a loop, is caught under the thread over your left forefinger, and catching a loop there it is pulled back through the loop on the hook. Repeat as long as the chain is to be made.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Doll's Pincushion in Afghan Stitch (1914) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Hats, Bags & Accessories
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Pincushion
- Finishing
Included with 202 patterns for $12 — $0.06 per pattern.

Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Doll's Pincushion pattern from?
It was published as "Doll's Pincushion" in Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston in 1914. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Doll's Pincushion?
light (#3) yarn. Not printed — leftovers from the afghan.
What hook should I use?
Start with a 4 mm (US G-6) Tunisian hook — approximate, as for the afghan Gauge: No gauge printed.






