Free preview · full pattern in the Vintage Crochet Hats, Bags & Accessories
Doll's Hood (1914): vintage crochet pattern
A doll's hood in white and pink Shetland floss, worked from a centre ring in rounds of long-loop “shells” striped pink and white, with a scalloped front edge and chain ties ending in little crocheted balls. Originally published as "Dolly's Hood" in Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston in 1914, it is.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Intermediate |
| Yarn weight | Fine (#2) |
| Yardage | Not printed. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 3.5 mm |
| Gauge | No stitch gauge printed. Fit to the doll. |
| Finished size | Doll size; measurements not printed. |
| Time | about 6 hours |
Materials
- Fine (CYC #2) soft, lofty wool yarn in White and Pink — the original was Shetland floss
- Tapestry needle
- Hook: Start with 3.5 mm (US E-4) — approximate; no hook or size is printed. Check the hood against your doll's head
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #2 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Lion Brand Coboo · 50% Cotton, 50% Bamboo
232 yds per skein · Silky breathable drape, lovely stitch shine
2 skeins required
approx. $$12.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- slip stitch
- single crochet
- double crochet
- treble crochet
- stitch
- loop
- yarn over
- round
- repeat
- shell
- space
Notes before you start
- Source: "Dolly's Hood" (No. 521B), Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson), The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston, 1914. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: white Shetland floss; pink Shetland floss; needle not stated (a medium bone needle is given for the sacque in the same outfit). Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own definitions (pages 3–6), not by name: chain stitch (“ch”) = ch; slip stitch (“sl” — “made with the needle in the loop, a loop pulled through the work and through the loop on the needle”) = sl st; double crochet (“d” — “made with the needle in the loop, a loop drawn through the work and another loop drawn through both”) = modern US single crochet (sc); treble crochet (“t” — “another loop over the needle, a loop drawn through the work (making three loops on the needle), then a loop is drawn through two on the needle, leaving two loops on the needle; another loop drawn through these two finishes the treble”) = modern US double crochet (dc); double treble crochet (“d t” — “two loops over the needle, one loop drawn through the work, when there will be four loops on the needle”, then worked off two at a time three times) = modern US treble crochet (tr). The 1914 names are one step taller than modern US names (they match modern UK usage), so every printed “d” is written sc, every “t” dc and every “d t” tr.
- Modernisation note: The book's words and letters are written as modern US abbreviations: ch = ch, sl = sl st, d = sc, t = dc, d t = tr; “needle”, “crochet-needle” or “hook” = hook; “thread over needle (hook)” = yo; “draw thread through (the work)” = draw up a lp; “miss” = sk; “over ch” or “over each chain” = in the ch-sp; “fasten the thread” = fasten off; ordinal names (“1st row”, “2d round”) = Row 1, Rnd 2. Repeats between stars are written “*… ; rep from *” as printed; the book's own rule: “When you see the little stars before and after any directions, whether long or short, the work directed is to be repeated once, or more times.”
- Modernisation note: The book's running paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation. Cross-references to other pages of the book are replaced by the stitch lesson itself, copied at the start of the design.
- Modernisation note: Hooks are printed as 1914 steel crochet-needle numbers (the book: “from No. 1 (a very large hook, almost as large as a medium-size bone hook) to No. 14, which is very fine”) or as bone, rubber and amber hooks of “small” or “medium” size, with no diameters. The modern hook given is an approximate starting point only, chosen for the thread or yarn and tied to any printed measurement.
- Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed anywhere in the book; work a swatch and match any printed finished measurement.
- Modernisation note: Shetland floss is a 1914 lofty wool with no exact modern equivalent; fine (CYC #2) is an approximation.
- Modernisation note: Yardage is never printed; the book gives balls, skeins, spools or hanks only (or nothing), so no yardage is estimated.
- Modernisation note: The book's “shell” here is a long-loop puff-like stitch, not a group of dc; its printed name is kept. “Draw thread through one-half inch” is written “draw up a lp ½ in long”.
- Modernisation note: Check: in the repeated half of the shell the second lp is printed without “draw out one-half inch”; draw it up ½ in as in the first shell.
- Modernisation note: Check: Rnds 4–7 are made with “only 20 shells” (Rnd 3 has more); the book does not say whether these rounds are closed or leave an opening at the neck. The photograph shows an open neck at the back; follow it.
- Modernisation note: Check: the ball is printed “repeat three times”; it is not stated whether this makes 3 or 4 long lps in all.
- Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
Row progress: 0 of 5 done (0%)
Stitches (the book's lessons)
0 of 5 done- Chain (ch), the book's lesson: the hook, first through a loop, is caught under the thread over your left forefinger, and catching a loop there it is pulled back through the loop on the hook. Repeat as long as the chain is to be made.Mark row complete
- Slip stitch (sl st; the book's “sl”): with the hook in the loop, pull a loop through the work and through the loop on the hook. A single sl st is often made to fasten tightly.Mark row complete
- Single crochet (sc; the book's “double crochet”, “d”): with the hook in the loop, draw a loop through the work, then draw another loop through both loops on the hook.Mark row complete
- Double crochet (dc; the book's “treble crochet”, “t”): yo, insert the hook, draw a loop through the work (3 lps on hook); draw a loop through 2 lps (2 lps on hook); draw another loop through these 2. When starting a row of dc, ch 3 to bring the hook to the top of the row.Mark row complete
- Treble crochet (tr; the book's “double treble”, “d t”): yo twice, insert the hook, draw a loop through the work (4 lps on hook); [draw a loop through 2 lps] 3 times. When starting a row of tr, ch 4 to bring the hook to the top of the row.Mark row complete
Working on:
Chain (ch), the book's lesson: the hook, first through a loop, is caught under the thread over your left forefinger, and catching a loop there it is pulled back through the loop on the hook. Repeat as long as the chain is to be made.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Doll's Hood (1914) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Hats, Bags & Accessories
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Hood
- Ties with balls
- Finishing
Included with 202 patterns for $12 — $0.06 per pattern.
Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Dolly's Hood pattern from?
It was published as "Dolly's Hood" in Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston in 1914. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Dolly's Hood?
fine (#2) yarn. Not printed.
What hook should I use?
Start with 3.5 mm (US E-4) — approximate; no hook or size is printed. Check the hood against your doll's head Gauge: No stitch gauge printed. Fit to the doll.
