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Dolly Varden Bag in Gold Thread with Spoked Centre (1912): vintage crochet pattern

A square gold-thread bag worked from a ring: twelve front spokes and twelve back spokes of double crochet radiate from the centre, are caught together with chain loops, then squared off with grouped double crochet and three rounds of paired picots, a beaded border and a picot joining round. Six crocheted discs and two slip balls dress the drawstrings.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Dolly Varden Bag, as photographed in the book
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Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelAdvanced
Yarn weightLace (#0)
YardageNot printed. The book gives balls, skeins, cards or pieces only, and their weight and yardage are not stated. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook2 mm
GaugeNo gauge printed.
Finished sizeNo finished measurement is printed for this design.
Timeabout 7 hours

Materials

  • Gold metallic crochet thread — approximate; the original was 6 cards of Klondyke Crochet Gold
  • 2 yards (1.8 m) of gold cord (original: Klondyke Gold Cord No. 748)
  • Steel crochet hook (original: Star crochet hook No. 3 1/2)
  • Cotton wadding to stuff the slip balls
  • Hook: Start with 2 mm (US steel 4) — approximate; change size until the spoked centre lies flat
Smart Yarn Matcher

Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

Compare all yarns →

This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
slip stitch
single crochet
double crochet
treble crochet
stitch
stitches
round
repeat
skip
space
increase

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Dolly Varden Bag", The Glossilla Book of Crochet Novelties, Bernhard Ulmann & Co., New York City, 1912. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: 6 cards of Klondyke Crochet Gold; 2 yards of Klondyke Gold Cord, No. 748; 1 Star Crochet Hook, No. 3 1/2. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own key ("DESCRIPTION OF STITCHES — TERMS USED", book pages 3-6; the designs themselves cite it as "see page 3", "see page 4", "see page 5"), not by name. The printed table is: "ch. … chain stitch; s. c. … single crochet; d. c. … double crochet; t. c. … treble crochet; * a sign of a repetition to begin at that point." The worked definitions show that this 1912 book already uses modern US heights: its single crochet ("frequently known as half stitch") is worked by inserting the hook in the second chain from the hook, drawing the thread through, then thread over and through the 2 loops on the hook — the modern US single crochet; its double crochet ("known by many as 'plains'") is thread over, hook into the fourth chain from the hook, draw a loop through (3 loops on the hook), then thread over and through 2 loops twice — the modern US double crochet; its treble crochet is the same "only winding the thread on the needle twice instead of once", worked off two at a time three times — the modern US treble; and its "long treble crochet" wraps the thread three or four times — the modern US double treble or triple treble. So throughout this transcription the book's s. c. = sc, d. c. = dc, t. c./tr. c. = tr, and long treble = dtr. No stitch changes height.
  • Modernisation note: The asterisk is the book's own: "a sign of a repetition to begin at that point" (stitch key, book page 3). Repeat counts are kept exactly as printed — "repeat from * 4 times" is transcribed as printed and not re-counted.
  • Modernisation note: Period wording modernised: "needle" (used for the crochet hook) written as hook; "thread over (the needle)" as yo; "pick up a loop"/"draw up a loop" kept; "catch" (with a slip stitch) as join or sl st as the sense requires; "skip" as sk; "taking up the back thread only" as "in the back loop only"; "taking up both threads" as "under both loops"; "widen"/"narrow" as increase/decrease; "fasten off" kept; spaced abbreviations s. c., d. c., t. c./tr. c., sl. st., ch. written sc, dc, tr, sl st, ch. Ordinal row and round names ("Second row", "Eleventh round") written Row 2, Rnd 11.
  • Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts are unchanged. Section headings added for navigation where the printed text runs on.
  • Modernisation note: The materials are Bernhard Ulmann trade names of 1912 and have no exact modern equivalent; every modern substitution given here is an approximation. The book's own materials page describes them: "Glossilla Crochet" — "used where the highest lustre is required, even superior to silk"; "Solitaire Yarn" — "the most lustrous ball cotton yarn … in a large assortment of colors"; "Klondyke Thread" — "a soft metal thread for crocheting … in a rich, bright, gold color; furthermore, in aluminum, antique gold and antique silver"; "Handicraft Macrame" and "Bear Macrame" cords; "D. M. C. Cordonnet, in numbers 3 to 30" and "D. M. C. Perle, numbers 3 and 5". Bear Brand wools (Shetland floss, Zephyr Shetland, Saxony 3-fold, 4-fold Germantown) are the publisher's knitting yarns; their weights are not printed, and the CYC weights suggested here are read from how they are used, not from the book.
  • Modernisation note: Hooks are printed only as "Star crochet hook No. …" (the steel hooks) or "bone"/"amber" hook numbers, with no diameters anywhere in the book, so no exact metric size can be read from it. The millimetre and US sizes suggested here are approximate starting points; the bone- and amber-hook numbers were never standardised, so those suggestions are ours. Work a swatch and change size until the work lies flat and matches the photograph.
  • Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design, and none is printed anywhere in the book.
  • Modernisation note: Check: Rnd 3 tells you to make "12 spokes" and then "12 more spokes", giving 24 in all over the 12 spaces and 12 chain-3 of Rnd 2; transcribed as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the printed Rnd 5 reads "repeat from four times" with the asterisk dropped in this copy; the repeat is from the preceding asterisk. Transcribed accordingly.
  • Modernisation note: Check: no colour is printed for this design beyond the thread named in the materials.
  • Modernisation note: Metric conversions added where a measurement is printed; the printed inches are unchanged.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 10 done (0%)

Side (make 2)

0 of 10 done
  1. Ch 10 and join in a ring. Ch 3 to count as 1 dc, then make 23 more dc in the ring and join.
    Mark row complete
  2. Rnd 2: Ch 6, * 1 dc in the second ch of the preceding rnd, ch 3; rep from * all around. Join — 12 spaces.
    Mark row complete
  3. Rnd 3: Make 12 spokes as follows: * ch 15, 1 dc in the fourth ch, make 11 more dc on the chain, catch with a sl st to the next dc of Rnd 2; rep from * all around. Make 12 more spokes in the same way, catching them in the ch 3 of Rnd 2, so that these spokes lie back of the first round of spokes. Fasten off.
    Mark row complete
  4. Rnd 4: * 1 sc in a front spoke, ch 3, 1 sc in the next back spoke, ch 3; rep from * all around.
    Mark row complete
  5. Rnd 5: Sl st to the center of the next space, ch 3 to count as 1 dc, 2 more dc in the same space, * ch 3, 3 dc in the next space; rep from * four times, ch 3, 1 extra group of 3 dc in the same space to form a corner; then make six more groups of dc as before, widen for the second corner and continue in the same way all around, making four corners. Join.
    Mark row complete
  6. Rnd 6: Sl st back into the space after the corner, then * ch 7, 1 sc in the second ch to form a picot, ch 8, 1 sc in the third ch to form a second picot, ch 2 — one set of picots — 1 sc in the next space; rep from * all around, widening by putting an extra set of picots in each corner.
    Mark row complete
  7. Rnds 7-8: Ch 2, 1 sc in the center between the picots of the preceding rnd, then proceed as for Rnd 6. Fasten off at the end of Rnd 8.
    Mark row complete
  8. Rnd 9: Fasten the thread in a corner picot, ch 6, 1 dc in the same space, * ch 4, 1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc all in the center of the next picot; rep from * all around, not widening at the corners.
    Mark row complete
  9. Rnd 10: A group of 3 dc in each space of the preceding rnd, chaining 1 between each group. Widen for the corners as was done in Rnd 5. This completes one side of the bag.
    Mark row complete
  10. Make the second side in the same manner.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Ch 10 and join in a ring. Ch 3 to count as 1 dc, then make 23 more dc in the ring and join.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Dolly Varden Bag in Gold Thread with Spoked Centre (1912) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Hats, Bags & Accessories

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Joining and border
  • Discs and slip balls
  • Finishing

Included with 202 patterns for $12 — $0.06 per pattern.

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Cover artwork for the vintage hats and accessories collection: a crochet hat, purse and slippers

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the Dolly Varden Bag pattern from?

It was published as "Dolly Varden Bag" in The Glossilla Book of Crochet Novelties by Bernhard Ulmann & Co., New York City in 1912. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Dolly Varden Bag?

Metallic crochet thread. Not printed. The book gives balls, skeins, cards or pieces only, and their weight and yardage are not stated.

What hook should I use?

Start with 2 mm (US steel 4) — approximate; change size until the spoked centre lies flat Gauge: No gauge printed.

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