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Baby's Shawl in Star Stitch with Cross-Treble Border (1912): vintage crochet pattern
A square white Saxony baby's shawl with a star-stitch centre worked in rows with the ends broken off, finished with a five-row border of a ribbon row, cross trebles, shells and picot shells, with pink ribbon run through and a bow at each corner.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Intermediate |
| Yarn weight | Super fine (#1) |
| Yardage | the book gives 6 skeins of Saxony; skein weight and yardage are not stated. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 3 mm |
| Gauge | No gauge or measurement printed; the centre is worked until square. |
| Finished size | Not printed. Begun on 150 ch with 70 stars; worked until square. |
| Time | about 5 hours |
Materials
- Super fine (CYC #1) wool yarn in white — approximate; the original was 6 skeins of white Saxony (skein weight and length not printed)
- Crochet hook (original: medium-sized bone hook)
- 6 yd (5.5 m) narrow pink ribbon (original: No. 2 ribbon; width not printed)
- Tapestry needle
- Hook: Start with 3 mm (US C-2/D-3) — approximate; no measurement is printed, so work the centre until it is square
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #1 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Knit Picks Stroll Sock · 75% Superwash Merino, 25% Nylon
231 yds per skein · Durable stitch definition, machine washable
2 skeins required
approx. $$13.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- single crochet
- double crochet
- treble crochet
- stitch
- stitches
- row
- skip
- repeat
- yarn over
- shell
- chain space
Notes before you start
- Source: "Baby's Shawl", Priscilla Wool Crochet Book (ed. Lola Burks Hettich), The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, 1912. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: Six skeins of white Saxony; 6 yards of No. 2 pink ribbon; Medium-sized bone hook. Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Stitches”, not by name: chain stitch (ch st, “make a series of loops, drawing each loop through the preceding one”) = ch; slip stitch (sl st, “insert the hook into the stitch, draw the wool through that stitch and through the wool on hook at the same time”) = sl st; single crochet (s c, “insert the hook, draw wool through, pass wool around hook (wool over), and draw it through both loops on the hook”) = sc; double crochet (d c, wool around the hook, insert, draw through, then through 2 loops twice) = dc; half double crochet (h d c, wool around the hook, insert, draw through, then “through all 3 loops at once”) = hdc; treble crochet (t c or tr c, wool around the hook twice, insert, draw through, then through 2 loops three times) = tr. For these stitches the 1912 American names already match modern US usage, so no stitch changes height. The book's long crochet (l c: wool around the hook, insert, draw through, then through 1 loop, then through 2 loops twice) is the modern extended double crochet; where used it is written “long crochet” with that definition.
- Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: ch st = ch, s c = sc, d c = dc, h d c = hdc, t c / tr c = tr, st(s) = st(s), “wool over” / “thread over” / “pass the wool around the hook” = yo; “miss” = sk; loop = lp; “repeat” = rep; “beginning” = beg. “Widen” is written as increase and “narrow” as decrease, as defined in each design. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2d row”) are written Row 1, Row 2; where the book calls a circuit of a round piece a “row” the book's word is kept. “Plain” (a row or round with no increases or decreases) is kept as printed.
- Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation.
- Modernisation note: Star stitch is the book's own stitch, defined on its “Star Stitch” page (quoted as the first steps of each design that uses it): loops are drawn up in the chain or in the long and short strands of the star below, all taken off together with 1 yo and closed with 1 ch. It has no single modern abbreviation, so it is written “star”. The book's widening terms are kept and explained: “wi 1” (one extra star in the same stitch), “wi 2” (two extra stars in that stitch) and “wi by 2 over 1” (two stars over one star of the row below).
- Modernisation note: Hooks are printed as bone hooks described only as fine, medium-sized or coarse, or by an unstated numbering system, with no diameters, so no exact metric size can be read from the book. The suggested modern hook is an approximate starting point chosen for the yarn weight and tied to any printed measurement.
- Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed for this design; work a swatch and match any printed measurement (given in the modern gauge line) before starting.
- Modernisation note: The yarns are 1912 trade descriptions with no exact modern equivalent, and the book prints no yardage or skein/ball weights except where quoted in the materials. The CYC weights given are approximations only: Saxony (a fine, firm yarn) and 2-ply (single) zephyr as super fine (CYC #1); ice wool (a very fine, lustrous yarn) as super fine (CYC #1); Shetland floss (a soft, lofty yarn) and eiderdown wool as fine (CYC #2) — lofty yarns and to be matched by gauge or measurement rather than by weight; 4-ply (split) zephyr, 4-fold Germantown and Spanish yarn as light (CYC #3); 8-fold Germantown and knitting worsted as medium (CYC #4).
- Modernisation note: The book's Star Stitch page is quoted as the first steps, as the centre is worked in star stitch.
- Modernisation note: The border's Row 2 is the cross treble (crossed tr), written out as printed; “needle” is written “hook” and “crochet all the sts on the hook off two at a time” as work the lps off 2 at a time.
- Modernisation note: Check: the 150 ch for 70 stars leaves some ch over (each star uses 2 ch); counts are as printed.
- Modernisation note: Check: the book does not say how to turn the corners of Row 1 of the border; extra sts at the corners are implied by “Make the work full at the corners so it will lie flat” (Row 2).
- Modernisation note: Check: in Row 5 the 3 picots are read as made one after another over the 3rd dc; the book does not say whether a dc is worked between picots.
- Modernisation note: Finishing “Weave in the ends” added.
- Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
Row progress: 0 of 5 done (0%)
Star Stitch
0 of 5 done- Star stitch (the book's definition): Ch the required length. Without a yo, sk the ch next to the hook and draw up a lp in the 2nd ch, keeping both lps on the hook; draw up a lp in the 3rd, 4th and 5th ch the same way, making 5 lps on the hook. These lps must be quite loose and the same length. Yo and draw through all 5 lps together, and finish the star with ch 1 to hold it together.Mark row complete
- Next star: Insert the hook in the 1st st of the star going down the side (a short st, called the eye of the star) and draw up a lp; draw up a lp through the back thread of the next st of the star (a long st); then draw up a lp in each of the next 2 ch, making 5 lps as before; yo and draw through all at once and ch 1 to finish the star.Mark row complete
- Star stitch, following rows: Join the yarn in the ch at the beg of the 1st star. Ch 3, sk the 1st ch and draw up a lp in the 2nd and 3rd ch. There is a long and a short st in the top of every star of the row below: draw up a lp in the back thread of the long st and in both threads of the short st, making 5 lps on the hook. Proceed as before, working a star over every star of the preceding row.Mark row complete
- Star stitch, widening (first way, “wi 1”): Draw up only 4 lps — the short and long st down the side of the preceding star, and the 4th in the short st into which the last lp of the preceding star was put. (“wi 2” = 2 extra stars put in this same st.)Mark row complete
- Star stitch, widening (second way, “wi by 2 over 1”): Draw up a lp in the short and long st down the side of the preceding star and in the long st of the star underneath (4 lps); take off as before, making 1 star. Then draw up a lp in the short and long st down the side and in the short st of the star underneath. This makes 2 stars over 1 of the preceding row.Mark row complete
Working on:
Star stitch (the book's definition): Ch the required length. Without a yo, sk the ch next to the hook and draw up a lp in the 2nd ch, keeping both lps on the hook; draw up a lp in the 3rd, 4th and 5th ch the same way, making 5 lps on the hook. These lps must be quite loose and the same length. Yo and draw through all 5 lps together, and finish the star with ch 1 to hold it together.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Baby's Shawl in Star Stitch with Cross-Treble Border (1912) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Stoles & Shawls
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Centre
- Border (5 rows)
- Finishing
Included with 31 patterns for $12 — $0.39 per pattern.

Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Baby's Shawl pattern from?
It was published as "Baby's Shawl" in Priscilla Wool Crochet Book (ed. Lola Burks Hettich) by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1912. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Baby's Shawl?
super fine (#1) yarn. Not printed — the book gives 6 skeins of Saxony; skein weight and yardage are not stated.
What hook should I use?
Start with 3 mm (US C-2/D-3) — approximate; no measurement is printed, so work the centre until it is square Gauge: No gauge or measurement printed; the centre is worked until square.







