Crocheted Insertion No. 5 Between Two Braids (1916): vintage crochet pattern

Materials

• Size 30, 40 or 50 mercerized cotton crochet thread — approximate; the original was Richardson's R. M. C. Cordonnet Special Nos. 30, 40 and 50
• Steel crochet hook (no hook size is printed in the book)
• Tapestry needle
• Picot lace braid for both edges (the book names no braid)
• Hook: No hook size is printed. Start with 1.65 mm (US steel 7) for size 30 thread, finer for sizes 40 and 50; change size to match the photograph.

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch

chain

sl st

slip stitch

sc

single crochet

hdc

half double crochet

dc

double crochet

st

stitch

rep

repeat

sh

shell

Notes before you start

• Source: "No. 5" (No. 5), Richardsons' Book on Crocheted Edgings and Insertions (Richardson's Crochet Book No. 3), Richardson Silk Company, Chicago and New York, 1916. Public domain in the USA.
• As printed — materials: Richardson's R. M. C. Cordonnet Special Nos. 30, 40 and 50 (printed once for the whole page of directions). Gauge: Not given.
• Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own key (“Abbreviations of Crochet Stitches”, book page 1), not by name. The key defines: chain stitch (ch st); slip stitch (sl st), drawing through the chain stitch and the loop together; single crochet (s c), insert, draw the thread through, thread over and through both loops — the modern US single crochet; double crochet (d c), thread over, insert, draw through, thread over and through 2 loops, thread over and through 2 loops — the modern US double crochet; treble crochet (t c), thread over twice and then work off 2 loops three times — the modern US treble; double treble crochet (d t c), thread over 3 times, otherwise as the treble — the modern US double treble; treble treble crochet (t t c), thread over 4 times — the modern US triple treble. So this book's heights already match modern US usage, and no shift of stitch names was needed: s c = sc, d c = dc, t c = tr, d t c = dtr, t t c = trtr.
• Modernisation note: The book's wording is written in modern US form: “thread over hook” / “over” / “over twice” = yo / yo twice; “skip” = sk; “repeat from *” = rep from *; st(s) = st(s); p = picot; sp = space. Ordinal row names (“First Row”, “Second Row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, and so on.
• Modernisation note: Check: the book's key does not define the “half-double” its directions use. It is read here as the modern US half double crochet (yo, insert, draw up a loop, yo and draw through all 3 loops), which is what the shells in the photographs look like.
• Modernisation note: The printed paragraphs are split into one row or step per line; stitch order and counts are unchanged. Section headings added for navigation.
• Modernisation note: The design is worked onto a manufactured lace braid. The book neither names nor pictures the braid separately, and gives only its picots (p), points or medallions as the places to fasten into, so no substitute can be specified from the printed directions: match a modern insertion braid with the same number of picots, points or medallions per length, or the stitch counts that fasten into the braid will not come out.
• Modernisation note: The materials line is printed once for the whole page of directions — “Materials: Richardson's R. M. C. Cordonnet Special Nos. 30, 40 and 50” — and not per design, so the same three thread sizes stand for every design on the page. Nothing else (no ball count, no braid size, no hook) is printed.
• Modernisation note: Check: no hook size is printed anywhere on the directions page. The metric hook suggested here is ours, read across to the modern US steel-hook scale for the thread sizes named (in which a higher number is finer); work a sample and change size until the work matches the photograph.
• Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design. Work a sample and change hook size until the lace lies flat and matches the photograph.
• Modernisation note: R. M. C. Cordonnet Special was a 1916 Richardson trade name with no exact modern equivalent. The modern equivalent given is an approximation only: mercerized six-cord cotton crochet thread of the same size number. The book's back pages list the maker's other threads (Cordonnet Art. 65, Perle Ball Cotton Art. 35 in sizes 3, 5, 8 and 12, Perle Cotton Art. 15B, Tat-It Cotton Art. 33), but none of them is named for these designs.
• Modernisation note: Check: the whole design is printed as one unbroken paragraph with no row breaks, so it is given here as the two printed steps rather than as numbered rows.
• Modernisation note: Check: the asterisk is printed inside the line — “in each 2 ch make * (s c, 3 half doubles, s c)” — and the repeat runs from there to the end of the paragraph, so the shell-and-join sequence is what repeats along the braid.
• Modernisation note: Check: the book does not say how the second braid edge is placed relative to the first, and prints no width for the finished insertion.
• Modernisation note: Check: no colour is printed; the lace photographs as a plain light thread.
• Modernisation note: Finishing line (weaving in ends) added.
• Modernisation note: Metric conversions added; no measurement is printed in the original for this design.