Free preview · full pattern in the Heirloom Doilies & Tablecloths

Small Cordonnet Doily No. 512 (1914): vintage crochet pattern

A 4½-inch round lace doily in fine Cordonnet: a centre of treble shells, a band of chain lattice with treble groups, and an edge of eight-treble scallops. Originally published as "Doily" in Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston in 1914, it is now in the public domain.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

No. 512, Doily, as photographed in the book
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Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelIntermediate
Yarn weightLace (#0)
YardageNot printed. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook1.25 mm
GaugeNo gauge printed. Printed check: 4½ in (11.5 cm) across.
Finished size4½ in (11.5 cm) across, as printed.
Timeabout 6 hours

Materials

  • Size 30 cotton crochet thread (the original was No. 30 Cordonnet)
  • Hook: Start with 1.25 mm (US steel 9) — approximate; the doily should measure 4½ in (11.5 cm) across
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Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
slip stitch
single crochet
double crochet
stitch
round
repeat
shell
chain space

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Doily" (No. 512), Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson), The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston, 1914. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: No. 30 Cordonnet; No. 9 crochet-needle. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own definitions (pages 3–6), not by name: chain stitch (“ch”) = ch; slip stitch (“sl” — “made with the needle in the loop, a loop pulled through the work and through the loop on the needle”) = sl st; double crochet (“d” — “made with the needle in the loop, a loop drawn through the work and another loop drawn through both”) = modern US single crochet (sc); treble crochet (“t” — “another loop over the needle, a loop drawn through the work (making three loops on the needle), then a loop is drawn through two on the needle, leaving two loops on the needle; another loop drawn through these two finishes the treble”) = modern US double crochet (dc); double treble crochet (“d t” — “two loops over the needle, one loop drawn through the work, when there will be four loops on the needle”, then worked off two at a time three times) = modern US treble crochet (tr). The 1914 names are one step taller than modern US names (they match modern UK usage), so every printed “d” is written sc, every “t” dc and every “d t” tr.
  • Modernisation note: The book's words and letters are written as modern US abbreviations: ch = ch, sl = sl st, d = sc, t = dc, d t = tr; “needle”, “crochet-needle” or “hook” = hook; “thread over needle (hook)” = yo; “draw thread through (the work)” = draw up a lp; “miss” = sk; “over ch” or “over each chain” = in the ch-sp; “fasten the thread” = fasten off; ordinal names (“1st row”, “2d round”) = Row 1, Rnd 2. Repeats between stars are written “*… ; rep from *” as printed; the book's own rule: “When you see the little stars before and after any directions, whether long or short, the work directed is to be repeated once, or more times.”
  • Modernisation note: The book's running paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation. Cross-references to other pages of the book are replaced by the stitch lesson itself, copied at the start of the design.
  • Modernisation note: Hooks are printed as 1914 steel crochet-needle numbers (the book: “from No. 1 (a very large hook, almost as large as a medium-size bone hook) to No. 14, which is very fine”) or as bone, rubber and amber hooks of “small” or “medium” size, with no diameters. The modern hook given is an approximate starting point only, chosen for the thread or yarn and tied to any printed measurement.
  • Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed anywhere in the book; work a swatch and match any printed finished measurement.
  • Modernisation note: Period threads are 1914 trade descriptions with no exact modern equivalent; modern choices are approximate. Pearl cotton Nos. 3, 5 and 8 are the same numbering as modern perle cotton; Cordonnet Nos. 2, 30 and 50 are given as the nearest modern crochet-thread sizes; carpet warp is modern cotton rug warp; soft knitting cotton has no printed thickness and is suggested by the hook the book pairs with it.
  • Modernisation note: Yardage is never printed; the book gives balls, skeins, spools or hanks only (or nothing), so no yardage is estimated.
  • Modernisation note: “Over ch” is written “in the ch-sp”; “over 4 t” in Rnds 8 and 10 is kept as “over the 4 dc”.
  • Modernisation note: Rnd 1 has 8 dc including the ch-5 (counted from the printed repeats).
  • Modernisation note: Check: “Two d over 2d and 3d of 4 d” (Rnds 7 and 9) is written as 1 sc in each of the 2nd and 3rd sc.
  • Modernisation note: Check: Rnd 11 “7 t over 3 ch” — the ch-3 of Rnd 10 between the sc pairs; with the beginning ch-3 this makes 8 dc, matching the “8 t over ch” of the repeat.
  • Modernisation note: Joining at the end of Rnds 6–12 and fastening off are not printed; the finishing step is ours.
  • Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 4 done (0%)

Stitches (the book's lessons)

0 of 4 done
  1. Chain (ch), the book's lesson: the hook, first through a loop, is caught under the thread over your left forefinger, and catching a loop there it is pulled back through the loop on the hook. Repeat as long as the chain is to be made.
    Mark row complete
  2. Slip stitch (sl st; the book's “sl”): with the hook in the loop, pull a loop through the work and through the loop on the hook. A single sl st is often made to fasten tightly.
    Mark row complete
  3. Single crochet (sc; the book's “double crochet”, “d”): with the hook in the loop, draw a loop through the work, then draw another loop through both loops on the hook.
    Mark row complete
  4. Double crochet (dc; the book's “treble crochet”, “t”): yo, insert the hook, draw a loop through the work (3 lps on hook); draw a loop through 2 lps (2 lps on hook); draw another loop through these 2. When starting a row of dc, ch 3 to bring the hook to the top of the row.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Chain (ch), the book's lesson: the hook, first through a loop, is caught under the thread over your left forefinger, and catching a loop there it is pulled back through the loop on the hook. Repeat as long as the chain is to be made.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Small Cordonnet Doily No. 512 (1914) pattern is in the Heirloom Doilies & Tablecloths

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Doily
  • Finishing

Included with 236 patterns for $19 — $0.08 per pattern.

See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage doilies and tablecloths collection: lace doilies in fine cotton thread with a steel hook

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the Doily pattern from?

It was published as "Doily" in Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston in 1914. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Doily?

Size 30 crochet cotton. Not printed.

What hook should I use?

Start with 1.25 mm (US steel 9) — approximate; the doily should measure 4½ in (11.5 cm) across Gauge: No gauge printed. Printed check: 4½ in (11.5 cm) across.

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