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Crocheted Shell Bedspread, Plate 10 (1918): vintage crochet pattern

A knot-stitch ground worked back and forth over a foundation of knot stitches, with every second row a plain chain-3 row. Shells of eight trebles are set into the ground in a count that grows from one to six and back again, so the shells form large diamonds across the spread. Twenty-seven rows are printed and the fringe.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Plate 10, the crocheted shell bedspread with its fringe, printed page 11
White · ÉcruSave to Pinterest
Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelAdvanced
Yarn weightLace (#0)
YardageNot printed. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook5 mm
GaugeNo gauge printed.
Finished sizeNot printed — the foundation is made “as long as desired”.
Timeabout 9 hours

Materials

  • Cotton crochet thread — the book prints no size for this design
  • Steel crochet hook to suit the thread (no hook number is printed in the original)
  • Tapestry needle for joining and for the ends
  • Hook: Check: this book prints no hook number and no needle number for any design — not on the cover, not on the abbreviations page and not beside any plate. No modern hook can therefore be read across from a printed size. Match the hook to the thread the design names and change size until the fabric matches the photograph.
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Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
slip stitch
single crochet
treble crochet
stitch
stitches
space
skip
shell
row
repeat

Notes before you start

  • Source: "A Crocheted Shell Bedspread" (Plate 10), Knitted and Crocheted Bed Spreads, Book No. 11, Anne Orr, Nashville, Tennessee, 1918. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: Not printed — the book gives no cotton number for this design.. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own printed definitions under “DIRECTIONS OF STITCHES”, printed page 2 (image p-02.jpg), not by the look of the abbreviation. The naming is MODERN US. Its “SINGLE CROCHET” (No. 3) is: “Make chain, insert hook through second last chain, throw thread over hook, draw through, throw thread over hook, draw through both loops at once.” That is the modern US sc. Its “DOUBLE CROCHET” (No. 4) is: “Throw thread over hook and draw a loop through foundation chain; throw thread over hook and draw through two loops, thread over hook and draw through last two loops.” That is the modern US dc, not a single. Its “TREBLE CROCHET” (No. 5) is: “Throw thread over hook twice, draw a loop through foundation chain, throw thread over again, draw through the two loops, throw thread over and draw through two, thread over and draw through last two.” That is the modern US tr. Its “SLIP STITCH” (No. 2) is: “Insert hook in foundation chain, draw a loop through it and the loop on hook.” Its “PICOT” (No. 6) is: “Chain 4 and make single crochet in fourth chain from hook.” So this book's sc, dc and tc/tr are written sc, dc and tr here with no shift of height.
  • Modernisation note: The book's “CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS” list, printed page 2 (image p-02.jpg), reads: “ch—stands for chain. sc—stands for single crochet. dc—stands for double crochet. tc—stands for treble crochet. sl st—stands for slip stitch. st—stands for stitch. blk—stands for block. hdc—stands for half double crochet. lat—stands for lattice. sp—stands for space. h tr—stands for half treble. tr—stands for treble. p—stands for picot. m—stands for mesh. f m—stands for fancy mesh. l m—stands for long mesh. sk—stands for skip. sh—stands for shell. r st—stands for roll stitch. tr tr—stands for triple treble. ks—stands for knot stitch. d tr—stands for double treble.” The book lists both “tc” and “tr” for the same stitch, treble; both are written tr below and that is the only abbreviation changed.
  • Modernisation note: The book's own definitions for the fancy stitches used in these designs, all printed page 2 (image p-02.jpg), quoted so nothing has to be guessed. ROLL STITCH (No. 17): “Roll thread around needle 15 times, put thread over and draw loop through the entire 15 loops, then make one chain stitch.” KNOT STITCH (No. 8): “Having a st on the needle, drawing the loop out to the length of 3 ch, draw the thread through for ch st. Take up the single thread of this loop and work one sc st on it. Repeat once. Skip 5 sts of the previous row, if not knot st, and work 1 sc. If the previous row be knot st, make 1 sc each side of the sc between the long loops of last row.” SHELL (No. 14): “Make chain required length. Ch 3 for 1st tr, 3 tr in 4th st of ch, ch 2, 3 tr in same st *, sk 5, 3 tr in next st, ch 2, 3 tr in same st. Repeat from *. 2d Row of Shells—Make sh in each ch 2.” FANCY MESH (No. 13): “Also called Lacet. This consists of two rows. The first a row of long meshes, 1 dc, 5 ch, skip 5 st, 1 dc, repeat. For the second row, 1 dc in dc of long mesh, ch 3, catch in center of 5 ch of 1 m, ch 3, dc over dc.” SPACE (No. 7): “This is for Filet Crochet Work. Chain two stitches, skip two stitches, one double crochet into next stitch.” BLOCK (No. 9): “Also for Filet Crochet. Four dc in adjoining sts. The number of dc in adjoining blocks is found by multiplying the number of blocks by 3 and adding one.”
  • Modernisation note: The book calls every round and every row a “Row” (“1st Row—”, “2d Row—”). Pieces worked outward in joined rounds from a centre ring are labelled “Rnd” below and pieces worked back and forth keep “Row”; the numbering is the book's own and nothing has been renumbered. Run-on paragraphs are split at the book's own row marks, one row or step per line. No stitch has been added, removed or reordered.
  • Modernisation note: Every figure below was read back against the page image, because the scanned text of this book carries the usual optical slips: its “8” and “38” very often stand for the printed 3 (the scan's “ch 8” is “ch 3” on the page in most places), its “Ist” and “ist” are 1st, its “de” is dc, its “bik” is blk, its “si st” is sl st, its “\4”, “}%”, “14” and “1%” all stand for the printed ½, its “trin” and “scinto” are “tr in” and “sc into”, and its “WMake” is Make. The rows below follow what the printed page actually shows; the quoted extract for each design is left exactly as the scan reads, untidied.
  • Modernisation note: No gauge is printed anywhere in this book.
  • Modernisation note: No finished size is printed for this design — the book gives no bed size, no motif measurement and no stitch-to-inch figure — so none is stated here.
  • Modernisation note: Check: no colour is printed for any design in this book. The photographs show a plain light thread. White and écru are recorded below as the usual period choices for a cotton bedspread, not as this design's printed colour.
  • Modernisation note: Modern thread suggestions below are added by this transcription and are not in the original; the original's own cotton number is kept in the materials exactly as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Check: no thread and no quantity are printed for this design at all — the page begins straight at “1st Row”. No cotton number has been carried over from the neighbouring plates and no yardage has been invented.
  • Modernisation note: The book's “ks” is its knot stitch and “k” means one knot of that stitch; both are kept as printed. Its knot stitch is defined on page 2 and quoted above. Its “sh” is its shell, also defined on page 2.
  • Modernisation note: Check: rows 5, 9, 13, 17 and 21 open with a printed ½ (“½ ks”), which the scan variously reads as “\4”, “}%”, “14” and “1%”. The page image shows ½ in every one of them. Half a knot stitch is the first long loop of the knot only — the book does not say so, and the reading is left open rather than resolved here.
  • Modernisation note: Check: row 5 also prints “½ ch 4” before the turn, where every other row prints plain “ch 4”. The page image agrees; it is left as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Check: row 13 prints “½ ks, 2 whole ks, 6 sh” — “whole” appearing only here, which supports reading the leading ½ as a genuine half knot rather than an optical slip.
  • Modernisation note: Check: rows 3 and 5 say to work into “next sp (or k)”, the book allowing either the chain space or the knot itself; that choice is the book's and is kept.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the shell counts across rows 7 to 23 (3, 4, 5, 6, 6, 4, 3, 2, 1) are as printed. They do not run as a perfectly even rise and fall, and the book gives no chart to check them against; work a sample against the photograph before starting a whole spread.
  • Modernisation note: The scan's “8 tc” in row 3 is written “8 tr” here — the book's own abbreviation list gives tc and tr as the same stitch, treble.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 27 done (0%)

Ground

0 of 27 done
  1. Row 1: Make a ch of ks as long as desired.
    Mark row complete
  2. Row 2: Ch 4, fasten with sl st in last st of ch. Ch 3, fasten with sl st in k of ks, ch 3, fasten with sl st in next k, * repeat to end of ch, turn, ch 4, fasten with sl st in 1st st of ch.
    Mark row complete
  3. Row 3: Make a ks, sk 1 sp (or k) and fasten with sl st in next sp (or k), * repeat 3 times, then a sh of 8 tr, fasten sh with sl st in next k of previous row. Make ks, sk k and fasten in next k of last row, * make 5 more ks, then sh in next sp, fasten with sl st to next k, * repeat to end. Ch 4, fasten with sl st in ch 4 of last row, turn, ch 4 in ch 4.
    Mark row complete
  4. Row 4: Like row 2.
    Mark row complete
  5. Row 5: ½ ks, fasten with sl st in next k of last row, 1 ks, sk 1 k (or sp), fasten in next sp (or k), * repeat 3 times. Sh in next sp (or k), fasten to middle of sh of last row, sh in next sp (or k), fasten in next k (you have 2 sh now). Make 5 ks, * repeat to end of row. ½ ch 4, fasten with sl st in ch 4 of last row, turn, ch 4 in ch 4 of last row.
    Mark row complete
  6. Row 6: Like row 2.
    Mark row complete
  7. Row 7: 4 ks, 3 sh in next sps (or k), 4 ks, * repeat to end of row, ch 4 in ch 4 of last row, turn, ch 4 in ch 4.
    Mark row complete
  8. Row 8: Like row 2.
    Mark row complete
  9. Row 9: ½ ks, fasten with sl st in next k of last row, 1 ks, sk 1 sp (or k), fasten in next sp (or k), repeat 2 times, 4 sh in next sps (or k), 3 ks in next sps (or k), * repeat to end of row. Ch 4 in ch of last row, turn, ch 4 in ch 4.
    Mark row complete
  10. Row 10: Like row 2.
    Mark row complete
  11. Row 11: 3 ks, 5 sh, 2 ks, * repeat to end of row.
    Mark row complete
  12. Row 12: Like row 2.
    Mark row complete
  13. Row 13: ½ ks, 2 whole ks, 6 sh, * repeat to end of row.
    Mark row complete
  14. Row 14: Like row 2.
    Mark row complete
  15. Row 15: 3 ks, 6 sh, 2 ks, * repeat to end of row, ch 4 in ch 4 of last row, turn, ch 4 in ch 4.
    Mark row complete
  16. Row 16: Like row 2.
    Mark row complete
  17. Row 17: ½ ks, 3 ks, 4 sh, * repeat to end of row.
    Mark row complete
  18. Row 18: Like row 2.
    Mark row complete
  19. Row 19: 4 ks, 3 sh, 4 ks, * repeat to end of row.
    Mark row complete
  20. Row 20: Like row 2.
    Mark row complete
  21. Row 21: ½ ks, 4 ks, 2 sh, 4 ks, * repeat to end of row.
    Mark row complete
  22. Row 22: Like row 2.
    Mark row complete
  23. Row 23: 5 ks, 1 sh, 6 ks, * repeat to end of row.
    Mark row complete
  24. Row 24: Like row 1.
    Mark row complete
  25. Row 25: Like row 2.
    Mark row complete
  26. Row 26: Like row 1.
    Mark row complete
  27. Row 27: Like row 2.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Row 1: Make a ch of ks as long as desired.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Crocheted Shell Bedspread, Plate 10 (1918) pattern is in the Vintage Afghans & Bedspreads

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Finishing

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Cover artwork for the vintage afghans and bedspreads collection: a folded crochet afghan in warm wool

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the A Crocheted Shell Bedspread pattern from?

It was published as "A Crocheted Shell Bedspread" in Knitted and Crocheted Bed Spreads, Book No. 11 by Anne Orr, Nashville, Tennessee in 1918. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the A Crocheted Shell Bedspread?

See the materials list. Not printed.

What hook should I use?

Check: this book prints no hook number and no needle number for any design — not on the cover, not on the abbreviations page and not beside any plate. No modern hook can therefore be read across from a printed size. Match the hook to the thread the design names and change size until the fabric matches the photograph. Gauge: No gauge printed.

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