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Eyelet Flower Anti-Macassar (1854): vintage crochet pattern

An anti-macassar made of strips of small six-petal crochet flowers joined by open hems of treble mesh, with a border of eyelet holes and a pointed (vandyke) edge. Worked in No. 12 cotton, or with the eyelets and edge in scarlet, green or cerise wool.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Illustration of Eyelet Flower Anti-Macassar (1854): vintage crochet pattern
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Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelAdvanced
Yarn weightLace (#0)
YardageNot printed. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook2 mm
GaugeNot printed.
Finished sizeSize as required; not printed.
Timeabout 9 hours

Materials

  • Cotton crochet thread about size 10 (period: cotton No. 12; approximate), white
  • Optional: fingering-weight wool in scarlet, green or cerise for the eyelet holes and edge; or pink and drab cottons
  • Fine sewing needle for running in the ends
  • Hook: Start with a 2 mm (US steel 4) hook and adjust to suit your thread (original: crochet hook No. 14, eagle card-board gauge; approximate conversion). No gauge is printed.
Smart Yarn Matcher

Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
slip stitch
single crochet
double crochet
treble crochet
stitch
stitches
row
round
skip
repeat
loop

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Anti-Macassar", The Ladies' Complete Guide to Crochet, Fancy Knitting, and Needlework (Mrs. Ann S. Stephens), Dick & Fitzgerald, 1854. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: Cotton, No. 12. Crochet hook, No. 14. Eagle card-board gauge.. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitch names checked against the book's own definitions (pp. 22–23), which describe the same stitches as modern US terms, so they are kept: “ch.” = ch; “sl.” / “slip” = sl st; “sc.” = sc; “dc.” = dc (US, not UK); “tc.” (treble crochet) = tr; “l tc.” / “long tc.” (long treble crochet) = dtr; “miss” = sk. Note that the book's “tc.” is a modern US tr, not a UK treble (US dc).
  • Modernisation note: Period wording modernised: “needle” (meaning the hook) → hook; “commence” → begin; “close for a loop”, “close in a round” and “form it into a round” → join into a ring (the book does not name the joining stitch unless it says “slip”); “under” a chain → in the ch-sp; “fasten off” → FO; “alternative” → alternate. Repeat marks (✕, +, *, †, ¶, (a)) are written as parentheses with the book's total count.
  • Modernisation note: Printed paragraphs split into one step per row, round or instruction; no stitches, counts, rows or rounds added, removed or reordered.
  • Modernisation note: Crochet hook numbers belong to the book's “eagle card-board gauge”, a period bell-type gauge in which higher numbers are finer. The metric and US sizes given are approximate conversions only, and no gauge is printed.
  • Modernisation note: Period cotton numbers (Evans's crochet cotton and “boar's-head” cotton) do not match modern thread sizes exactly; the modern thread size is a starting approximation. Choose the thread that suits the hook and gives lace of the right fineness.
  • Modernisation note: No yardage or weight of thread is printed for this design, and none is estimated.
  • Modernisation note: The engraving for this design is not among the surviving illustrations of the book, so it is transcribed from the text alone.
  • Modernisation note: Check: “Close in the 3rd for a round, leaving 2 chain” is read as joining into the 3rd ch from the start, so that 2 ch are left free; the book does not say what the 2 ch are for.
  • Modernisation note: Check: “dc. under each side of the centre stitch of the second loop” (open hem) is not explained further; the three free loops of each flower sit along the edge of the strip.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the eyelet-hole border directions (“Work the 2nd side of the eyelet-holes at each corner, make a chain all round connecting it with the eyelet-holes in every fifth stitch”) do not say how the second side of the eyelet holes is worked away from the corners; compare with the insertion on p. 69 of the book, where the second side is 7 dc in each eyelet hole.
  • Modernisation note: “Drab” is a dull greyish brown; “cerise” a cherry red.
  • Modernisation note: “Run in the ends” added as finishing.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 6 done (0%)

Stitches

0 of 6 done
  1. Chain (book's definition, “ch.”): “A loop of thread made on the hook, and through this the thread is drawn, forming the first chain stitch; draw the thread through this one, and a second is formed.” = ch.
    Mark row complete
  2. Slip stitch (book's definition, “sl.”): “Insert the hook in the stitch next to that already on the needle (unless the directions particularly say, miss so many,) and draw the thread at once through both stitches.” = sl st. The book says it serves “to carry the thread from one part to another, without either breaking it off or widening the work.”
    Mark row complete
  3. Single crochet (book's definition, “sc.”): “Insert the hook in the chain, and draw the thread through it; this forms a second loop on the hook. Draw the thread through these two by a single movement and the stitch will be completed.” = modern US sc.
    Mark row complete
  4. Double crochet (book's definition, “dc.”): “Raise the thread over the hook, so as to pass it round, before inserting the latter in the chain; draw the thread through, and you will find three loops on the hook; bring the cotton through two … finish the stitch by drawing the thread through these.” = modern US dc (not the UK dc).
    Mark row complete
  5. Treble crochet (book's definition, “tc.”): as dc, “but as the thread is passed twice round the hook before the insertion of the latter in the chain, there will be four loops on … Bring the thread three times through two loops to finish the stitch.” = modern US tr.
    Mark row complete
  6. Repeat marks (book's definition): stitches between two similar marks (✕, +, *, †) “are to be done as many times as directed; thus, ✕ 3 dc. 2 ch. ✕ three times, means 3 dc. 2 ch., 3 dc. 2 ch., 3 dc. 2 ch.” So “twice” or “3 times” is the total number of times the group is worked. Written here as (…) twice, (…) 3 times.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Chain (book's definition, “ch.”): “A loop of thread made on the hook, and through this the thread is drawn, forming the first chain stitch; draw the thread through this one, and a second is formed.” = ch.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Eyelet Flower Anti-Macassar (1854) pattern is in the Heirloom Doilies & Tablecloths

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Strip of flowers
  • Open hem
  • Body
  • Border
  • Finishing

Included with 236 patterns for $19 — $0.08 per pattern.

See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage doilies and tablecloths collection: lace doilies in fine cotton thread with a steel hook

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the Anti-Macassar pattern from?

It was published as "Anti-Macassar" in The Ladies' Complete Guide to Crochet, Fancy Knitting, and Needlework (Mrs. Ann S. Stephens) by Dick & Fitzgerald in 1854. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Anti-Macassar?

Size 10 crochet cotton (approximate). Not printed.

What hook should I use?

Start with a 2 mm (US steel 4) hook and adjust to suit your thread (original: crochet hook No. 14, eagle card-board gauge; approximate conversion). No gauge is printed. Gauge: Not printed.

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