Free preview · full pattern in the Vintage Crochet Stoles & Shawls

Half Square Striped Shawl (1847): vintage crochet pattern

A large Victorian triangular shawl in eight-thread zephyr fleecy, begun on 900 chains and shaped by omitting a stitch at the centre of each row, striped in black, white, green, scarlet and red with bands of chiné wool, trimmed with a black fringe.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Illustration of Half Square Striped Shawl (1847): vintage crochet pattern
Black · White · Green · Scarlet · CrimsonSave to Pinterest
Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelIntermediate
Yarn weightBulky (#5)
YardageNot printed. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook6 mm
GaugeNot printed. Work to the size of the article; the book sizes by counted stitches or measurement.
Finished sizeNot printed (900-ch foundation).
Timeabout 6 hours

Materials

  • Chunky-weight (CYC #5) soft wool, approximating eight-thread fleecy, in black, white, green, scarlet and red, plus 4 chiné (space-dyed) yarns of different colours
  • Black fringe about 4 in (10 cm) deep for the two sides
  • Tapestry needle for weaving in (“running”) the ends
  • Hook: Start with 6 mm (US J-10) and adjust to suit your yarn; no hook size or gauge is printed (original: steel or ivory needle).
Smart Yarn Matcher

Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

Compare all yarns →

This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #5 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Premier Basics Chunky · 100% Acrylic

218 yds per skein · Fast make, dense pill-resistant body

2 skeins required

approx. $$9.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
single crochet
stitch
stitches
row
repeat
decrease

Notes before you start

  • Source: "A Half Square Shawl", My Crochet Sampler (Miss Lambert), D. M. Peyser, 1847. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: black eight-thread zephyr fleecy; four chiné wools, of different colours; a black fringe of about four inches deep. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Victorian stitch names converted to modern US terms strictly by the book's own definitions (pp. 15–21, 57), not by modern UK equivalents: “plain double crochet”, “plain crochet”, “plain stitch” and “plain stitch double crochet” = sc; “plain single crochet” = sl st; “chain” = ch; “open crochet” = dc with ch 1 over a skipped st; the “double stitches” / “long stitches” of open crochet = dc; “double open crochet” = pairs of dc with an open space; “treble open crochet” = groups of 3 dc alternating with open spaces; “plain stitch open crochet” = ch-5 loops joined by sc to the centre of the loops below; “dividing”, “seam” or “raised” stitch = 2 sc in one st under both loops, stacked; “treble increased stitch” = 3 sc in one st; “double stitch crochet” = sc under both loops; “raised” or “ribbed” crochet and “plain stitch elastic crochet” = sc in back loop only, turning each row; “to increase” = 2 sc in one st; “to decrease” = sc2tog or sk 1; “to make a stitch” = ch 1 at each end of the row; “fasten off” = draw the yarn through the last st; “fasten on” = lay the new end along the work and crochet over both; “run the ends” = weave in ends. Note that the book's “double crochet” is a modern sc, and its “treble” never means a modern tr.
  • Modernisation note: The book implies that ordinary plain crochet picks up only one loop of the stitch below (the seam stitch is made “under both loops instead of one”, and “double stitch crochet” takes “both meshes”), but it never says which loop. Instructions say sc. Check: for the period texture, try working through one loop as the book implies.
  • Modernisation note: Period wording modernised: “needle” / “crochet needle” written as “hook”; “commence” as “begin”; “unite the ends” / “join both ends together” as “join into a ring” (the book does not name the joining stitch); “a chain and first row” as “ch, then Row 1”; “cheques” as “checks”. The book says “row” even when working round and round; “row” is kept as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Printed paragraphs split into one step per row or instruction; no colours, counts or rows added, removed or reordered. Colour-sequence rows are written as “Row 4 (sc): 1 light green, 1 black, 5 red brown …”, meaning that many sc in each colour, in order.
  • Modernisation note: “Fleecy” was a soft, lofty Victorian wool sold by thread (ply) count. Modern weights given are approximations only: four-thread fleecy ≈ DK (CYC #3), six-thread fleecy ≈ worsted (CYC #4), eight-thread fleecy ≈ chunky (CYC #5).
  • Modernisation note: No hook (needle) size and no gauge is printed — the book names only “steel” or “ivory” needles. The modern starting hook is an approximate suggestion only.
  • Modernisation note: No yardage is printed and none is estimated.
  • Modernisation note: Colour swatches are approximate modern readings of the period colour names; they are not in the book. “Gold colour” is a golden-yellow yarn, whereas “gold” on its own in the silk designs means metallic gold thread or cord. “Ponceau” is poppy red, “drab” a dull greyish brown, “stone colour” a pale greyish beige, “claret” a deep wine red. By the book's own definitions (p. 24), “chiné” yarn is dyed in two or more colours at intervals along one thread, and “ombré” yarn shades gradually from light to dark in one colour.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the printed row numbers do not match the first 11-row block — Rows 2–3 white plus 11 rows would end at Row 14, but the book then prints “Fourteenth and Fifteenth rows—white”. The later blocks (Rows 18–28, 33–43, 48–58) do fit. Kept as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the book does not say which colour begins each alternating 11-row block; presumably the plain colour named first.
  • Modernisation note: “Omitting a stitch” written as “omit (skip) a st” (the book's own definition of decreasing includes “to miss one stitch”).
  • Modernisation note: “Weave in ends” added.
  • Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 2 done (0%)

Shaping

0 of 2 done
  1. Stitch (book's definition): “Plain double crochet,—where two loops are kept on the needle, and the wool drawn through both before the stitch is finished” = single crochet (sc). The book adds that “unless any other stitch be mentioned, the plain, or double crochet stitch, is always to be employed”, so every stitch in these directions is sc unless another stitch is named. A “plain row” is a row of sc in one colour.
    Mark row complete
  2. Omit (skip) a st in the centre of each row: the shawl takes a pointed, half-square shape as you work, and the rows run diagonally from either side of the centre.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Stitch (book's definition): “Plain double crochet,—where two loops are kept on the needle, and the wool drawn through both before the stitch is finished” = single crochet (sc). The book adds that “unless any other stitch be mentioned, the plain, or double crochet stitch, is always to be employed”, so every stitch in these directions is sc unless another stitch is named. A “plain row” is a row of sc in one colour.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Half Square Striped Shawl (1847) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Stoles & Shawls

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Stripes
  • Finishing

Included with 31 patterns for $12 — $0.39 per pattern.

See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage stoles and shawls collection: a lacy crochet stole in soft cream yarn

Errata

No corrections have been published for this pattern. Found a mistake? Tell us and we will log the fix here with a date.

Project log

Your notes on this pattern

Keep track of the yarn, hook and changes you used. Saved in this browser only — nobody else can see it.

Frequently asked questions

Where is the A Half Square Shawl pattern from?

It was published as "A Half Square Shawl" in My Crochet Sampler (Miss Lambert) by D. M. Peyser in 1847. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the A Half Square Shawl?

bulky (#5) yarn. Not printed.

What hook should I use?

Start with 6 mm (US J-10) and adjust to suit your yarn; no hook size or gauge is printed (original: steel or ivory needle). Gauge: Not printed. Work to the size of the article; the book sizes by counted stitches or measurement.

You might also like