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Figure 11 Three-Leaf Triangle Lace (1916): vintage crochet pattern

A deep lace built from triangular scallops: a three-leaf centre motif of long trebles is covered in picots, framed in slip-stitched chain bars and rounds of single crochet, then edged with shells; the scallops are joined side by side and finished with a heading and a picot-and-cluster lower edge.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Printed page 10 — the start of Fig. 11, Edging.
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Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelAdvanced
Yarn weightLace (#0)
Yardagethe book gives no thread quantity for any design. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook1 mm
GaugeNo gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread.
Finished sizeNot printed — the piece is worked to the length required.
Timeabout 6 hours

Materials

  • Size 50 crochet thread — approximate modern equivalent of the book's No. 50 crochet cotton
  • 1.0 mm steel hook (US steel 12) — approximate for the book's No. 12 hook
  • Fine tapestry or sewing needle for the ends
  • Hook: Start with 1.0 mm (US steel 12) — approximate for the book's No. 12 hook; change size until the thread runs easily without splitting and the lace lies flat.
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Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
single crochet
double crochet
treble crochet
double treble crochet
slip stitch
stitch
stitches
skip
space
repeat
row
round
shell
loop
back loop only

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Figure 11. Edging", The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions, No. 2 (Edited by Belle Robinson), The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, 1916. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: Crochet cotton No. 50 — the book's Materials paragraph says “crochet cotton” means the hard-twisted cotton sold as Cordonnet, Cordonnet Special, Cordichet, Kord-net and similar; Hook No. 12. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Stitches” (printed page 3), not by name. This book uses the older British-style naming, so its stitch names do NOT match modern US names: chain (ch) = ch; slip stitch (sl) = sl st; “double” (d), “put hook through work, draw thread through work (making two loops on the hook); thread over again and through both loops” = modern US single crochet (sc) — the book itself notes this stitch “has been, especially in wool crochet, called ‘single crochet’”; “half treble” (ht), thread over, through work, “thread over and through all three sts at once” = modern US half double crochet (hdc); “treble” (t), thread over, through work, “thread over and through two loops, thread over and again through two loops” = modern US double crochet (dc); “double treble” (dt), thread over twice and worked off by twos three times = modern US treble crochet (tr); “long treble” (lt) or “triple treble” (tt), thread over three times and crocheted off by twos = modern US double treble (dtr); “quadruple treble” (qt), thread over four times = modern US triple treble (trtr). Every stitch in these instructions has been rewritten in the modern US name and abbreviation on that basis.
  • Modernisation note: The book's picot (p) is defined on the same page: “A p is formed on a ch by joining the last four sts (or any given number) in a ring by working a sl, or a d, in the fourth st from the hook. In the following directions a sl is understood unless otherwise designated.” Picots are written out as “picot” with the chain count the design gives, since the site's abbreviation list has no picot entry.
  • Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: d = sc, ht = hdc, t = dc, dt = tr, lt/tt = dtr, st(s) = st(s), sp = sp, p = picot, blk = block, “miss” = sk, “thread over (the hook)” = yo, “repeat” = rep, “needle” (where it is used for the crochet hook) = hook. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2d row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, and “1st round”/“2d round” as Rnd 1, Rnd 2. Section headings (Heading, Edge, Lower Edge, Filling) are the book's own where it prints them.
  • Modernisation note: The book prints each design as one or two solid paragraphs; these have been split into one row, round or step per line. Stitch order and counts are unchanged. Where the book's own repeat markers (*, **, ***) span several lines they are kept as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Thread sizes are the book's own numbering. Its Materials paragraph says that “where the words ‘crochet cotton’ are used in the text of this book, the cotton referred to is the hard-twisted cotton known by such names as Cordonnet, Cordonnet Special, Cordichet, Kord-net, etc.” “No. N crochet cotton” is given below as modern size N crochet thread, which is an approximation: modern size numbering runs the same way (higher number = finer thread) but the exact diameters are not identical. No yardage is printed anywhere in the book, so none is given here.
  • Modernisation note: Hook sizes are the book's own steel numbering. The 1916 steel numbering is not identical to the modern one, so every metric size below is approximate and should be adjusted to the thread.
  • Modernisation note: No gauge and no finished measurements are printed for this design; work a sample repeat and adjust the hook until the lace lies flat at the width you want.
  • Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
  • Modernisation note: The book warns that “sometimes ‘long treble’ is used for anything longer than dt, and the number of loops given”. Wherever it writes “long t (over N times)” the wrap count is kept in the modern text, because the height of that stitch is set by the wrap count and not by the name: over 3 times = dtr, over 4 times = trtr, and longer wraps are written out as they are printed.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 10 done (0%)

Centre Motif

0 of 10 done
  1. Make a ch of 8 sts, 1 tr in the first st made.
    Mark row complete
  2. * In the same st make (ch 3, 1 dtr — thread over 3 times, ch 3, 1 long treble with the thread over 4 times, ch 5, 1 long treble with the thread over 4 times, ch 3, 1 dtr — thread over 3 times, ch 3, 1 tr, ch 7, 1 sc) *.
    Mark row complete
  3. (Ch 15, 1 tr in the 8th st from hook; rep from * to *) twice, ch 7, join with sl st in the first st of the first leaf.
    Mark row complete
  4. Rnd 1: In the first space of the leaf make * (5 sc, picot of 5 joined by sc through the two upper loops of the last sc, 3 sc); in each of the next two sp make (2 sc, picot, 2 sc); in the centre sp make (4 sc, picot, 4 sc); in each of the next two make (2 sc, picot, 2 sc); in the last sp make (3 sc, picot, 5 sc); 6 sc in the sp at the base of the leaf *; rep from * to * in each leaf, connecting with the previous leaf after the 5th sc in the first sp of the leaf as follows: ch 1, take the hook out of the work, insert it down through the opposite picot on the preceding leaf, catch the dropped st and draw through, ch 2, and finish the picot with 1 sc through the 2 upper loops of the last sc. The joining of the third leaf to the first leaf must be done in the same way at the last picot on the third leaf. After making the 6th sc over the last base line, sl st in the first st of the first leaf, break the thread.
    Mark row complete
  5. Row 2: Ch 7, take the hook out of the work, insert it down through the centre picot of a leaf, draw the st through, ch 6, sl st in the 1st st of the ch 7, * ch 1, working to the left make 1 sl st in each of the next 6 sts to the picot, taking 1 loop of the st only, draw the 6th st through the picot, sl st in each of the next 6 sts, sl st through the top st, ch 18 (do not twist the ch), draw the 18th st through the next picot to the left, ch 6, sl st in the 7th st from the picot *; rep from * to * around at each picot, except 1 picot before and after the joined picot; after working the last loop, ch 11, join with sl st in the centre of the first loop.
    Mark row complete
  6. Row 3: One sc in each st around, using the top loop only, making 2 sts in each corner st over the centre of the loops. There should be 44 or 45 sts on each side.
    Mark row complete
  7. Rnd 4: Turn the work wrong side up, 1 sc in each st around (taking the back loop), 2 sc in each corner, join the last st to the first one with sl st.
    Mark row complete
  8. Rnd 5: Turn the work right side up, make 3 sc in each corner, 1 sc in each st around, taking the back loop only, join with sl st.
    Mark row complete
  9. Rnd 6: Sl st to the centre corner st, ch 7, sc in the same st, ch 4, sk 2 sc, 1 sc in the next st (back loop only), ch 4, sk 3 sc, * (dc, ch 4, dc) in the next st — this is a shell — ch 4, sk 3, sc in the next, ch 4, sk 3 *; rep from * to * around two sides of the triangle; after making the shell in the corner st, work the top row as follows: ch 4, sk 2, 1 sc in the next, ch 4, sk 3, 1 shell in the next, (ch 4, sk 3, shell in the next) 8 times, ch 4, sk 3, 1 sc in the next st, ch 4, sl st in the third st of the ch 7, break the thread and fasten.
    Mark row complete
  10. There should be about 48 sts from point to point in the last row of sc on the triangle; if there are more or less, arrange before reaching the corner so that there will be but 2 sts between the last sc and the st at each corner where the shell is placed.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Make a ch of 8 sts, 1 tr in the first st made.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Figure 11 Three-Leaf Triangle Lace (1916) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Joining the scallops
  • Heading
  • Edge
  • Finishing

Included with 618 patterns for $9 — $0.01 per pattern.

See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage edgings and trims collection: narrow crochet lace strips on folded linen

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the Figure 11. Edging pattern from?

It was published as "Figure 11. Edging" in The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions, No. 2 (Edited by Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1916. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Figure 11. Edging?

Size 50 crochet thread. Not printed — the book gives no thread quantity for any design.

What hook should I use?

Start with 1.0 mm (US steel 12) — approximate for the book's No. 12 hook; change size until the thread runs easily without splitting and the lace lies flat. Gauge: No gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread.

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