Free preview · full pattern in the Heirloom Doilies & Tablecloths
Figure 6 Hexagon Table Mat (1915): vintage crochet pattern
A hexagonal mat in heavy crochet cotton worked in ridged single crochet: the six corners are widened from the second round, bands of open mesh divide the ribs, and a corner-started border of chain loops finishes it. Originally published as "Figure 6. Hexagon Table Mat" in The Priscilla Crochet Book: Centerpieces and Doilies (edited by Belle Robinson) by.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Intermediate |
| Yarn weight | Lace (#0) |
| Yardage | the book gives no thread quantity for this design. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 1.5 mm |
| Gauge | No gauge printed. Work the first few rounds and match the hook to the thread so the work lies flat. |
| Finished size | Not printed. |
| Time | about 7 hours |
Materials
- Size 10 crochet thread — approximate modern equivalent of the book's No. 10 crochet cotton
- A fine steel hook, about 1.5 mm (US steel 8) — the book gives no number for this design
- Large tapestry needle for the ends
- Hook: Start with 1.5 mm (US steel 8) — the book asks only for “a fine steel crochet needle”; change size until the mat lies flat.
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic
315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture
2 skeins required
approx. $$10.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- slip stitch
- single crochet
- double crochet
- stitch
- stitches
- skip
- repeat
- round
- back loop only
- increase
- right side
- wrong side
Notes before you start
- Source: "Figure 6. Hexagon Table Mat", The Priscilla Crochet Book: Centerpieces and Doilies (edited by Belle Robinson), The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, 1915. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: Crochet cotton No. 10; A fine steel crochet needle. Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Stitches” (printed page 3), not by name. This book uses the older British-style naming, so its stitch names do NOT match modern US names: chain (ch) = ch; slip stitch (sl) = sl st; “double” (d), hook through work, draw thread through, “thread over again and through both loops” = modern US single crochet (sc) — the book adds that this stitch “has been, especially in wool crochet, called ‘single crochet’”; “half treble” (h t), thread over, through work, then “thread over and through all three sts at once” = modern US half double crochet (hdc); “treble” (t), thread over, through work, “thread over and through two loops, thread over and again through two loops” = modern US double crochet (dc); “double treble” (d t), thread over twice and worked off by twos three times = modern US treble crochet (tr); “long treble” (l t) or “triple treble” (t t), thread over three times, worked off by twos = modern US double treble (dtr); “quadruple treble” (q t), thread over four times = modern US triple treble. Every stitch below has been rewritten in the modern US name and abbreviation on that basis.
- Modernisation note: The book's picot (p) is defined on the same page: it is formed on a chain by joining the last four stitches (or any given number) in a ring by working a slip stitch or a single crochet in the fourth stitch from the hook, and “a sl is understood unless otherwise designated.” Picots are written out as “picot” with the chain count the design gives, since the site's abbreviation list has no picot entry.
- Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: d = sc, h t = hdc, t = dc, d t = tr, l t = dtr, st(s) = st(s), sp = sp, “miss” = sk, “thread over (the needle)” = yo, “repeat” = rep, “needle” (for the crochet hook) = hook. Ordinal row and round names (“1st round”, “2d round”) are written Rnd 1, Rnd 2 and Row 1, Row 2. Section headings (Border, Edge, Heading) are the book's own where it prints them. The book's British spelling “centrepiece” is kept inside quoted names.
- Modernisation note: The book prints each design as one or two solid paragraphs; these have been split into one round, row or step per line. Stitch order and counts are unchanged. Where the book's own repeat markers (*, **) span several lines they are kept as printed.
- Modernisation note: Thread sizes are the 1915 numbering. “No. N crochet cotton” is given as modern size N crochet thread, which is an approximation: modern size numbering runs the same way (higher number = finer thread) but the exact diameters are not identical. The book states that where it says “crochet cotton” it means the hard-twisted cotton sold as Cordonnet, Cordonnet Special, Cordichet, Kord-net and similar. No yardage is printed for any design, so none is given here.
- Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
- Modernisation note: The book's “slipper rib” is single crochet worked under the back loop only, turning each round, which makes the ridged fabric of the mat.
- Modernisation note: Check: the middle of this design is written as running instructions rather than numbered rounds (“Repeat 3d round until there are 4 ribs”, “Then work 6 rounds of d”); those passages are transcribed as steps in the order printed, since the book supplies no round numbers for them.
Row progress: 0 of 12 done (0%)
Mat
0 of 12 done- Rnd 1: Ch 2, 12 sc in the first st, join to the first sc, turn.Mark row complete
- Rnd 2: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in the next; rep around, starting the 6 corners, turn.Mark row complete
- Rnd 3: Single crochet all around, with 2 sc in the first of each two widening sts of the last round, turn.Mark row complete
- Repeat Rnd 3 until there are 4 ribs (always working under the back loop of the st to make this “slipper rib”).Mark row complete
- Then, with the right side of the work toward you, work the first row of open meshes: ch 4, sk 1 sc, 1 dc in the next st, * ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc in the next st; rep from * around, making 2 dc with ch 2 between in one of the widening sts at each corner, and joining to the second of the first 4 ch.Mark row complete
- With the wrong side of the work toward you, work 2 sc under each 1 ch of the last round, and 3 sc under the 2 ch at each corner.Mark row complete
- Work 5 more rounds of sc, widening as usual, which should give 3 ribs on the right side of the work.Mark row complete
- Then make the wide openwork row, always keeping the right side of the work toward you in working: work 1 sc in each of 2 sts, * ch 3, sk 1, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts; rep from * around the mat, planning so as to have two or three clusters of sc come together at the corners, without skipping any sc between them.Mark row complete
- Next two rounds: Make 1 sc under the end of the first 3 ch, * ch 3, 1 sc under the same ch at the other end, then 1 sc under the next ch; rep from * for two rounds.Mark row complete
- Next round: 3 sc under each 3 ch of the last round.Mark row complete
- Then work 6 rounds of sc, widening at the corners as usual and turning at the end of each round.Mark row complete
- One round of open-work is made like the first one, and 3 rounds (not ribs) of sc; fasten the thread.Mark row complete
Working on:
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 12 sc in the first st, join to the first sc, turn.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Figure 6 Hexagon Table Mat (1915) pattern is in the Heirloom Doilies & Tablecloths
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Border
- Finishing
Included with 236 patterns for $19 — $0.08 per pattern.

Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Figure 6. Hexagon Table Mat pattern from?
It was published as "Figure 6. Hexagon Table Mat" in The Priscilla Crochet Book: Centerpieces and Doilies (edited by Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1915. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Figure 6. Hexagon Table Mat?
Size 10 crochet thread. Not printed — the book gives no thread quantity for this design.
What hook should I use?
Start with 1.5 mm (US steel 8) — the book asks only for “a fine steel crochet needle”; change size until the mat lies flat. Gauge: No gauge printed. Work the first few rounds and match the hook to the thread so the work lies flat.







