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Figure 92 Picot Scallop Edging (1913): vintage crochet pattern

The first three rows of the Figure 56 insertion carried on into an edging: a row of picoted chain bars, a row of chain-7 loops between the picots, and deep overlapping scallops of single crochet on chains of eleven. Originally published as "Figure 92. Edging" in The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions by The Priscilla Publishing Company.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Book page 38 — the directions for Figure 92.
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Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelIntermediate
Yarn weightLace (#0)
Yardagethe book gives no thread quantity for any design. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook0.75 mm
GaugeNo gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread.
Finished sizeNot printed — the piece is worked to the length required.
Timeabout 2 hours

Materials

  • Size 100 crochet thread — approximate modern equivalent of No. 100 Cordonnet crochet cotton
  • 0.75 mm steel hook (US 14) — approximate for the book's No. 13 hook
  • Fine tapestry or sewing needle for the ends
  • Hook: Start with 0.75 mm (US steel 14) — approximate for the book's No. 13 hook; change size until the thread runs easily without splitting and the lace lies flat.
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Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
single crochet
double crochet
stitch
stitches
space
repeat
row

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Figure 92. Edging", The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions, The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, 1913. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: No. 100 Cordonnet crochet cotton — from the book's general Materials paragraph: all of the edgings shown were made of No. 100 Cordonnet crochet cotton except those in which the number of cotton is specified in the directions; No. 13 hook — the book directs a No. 13 hook for No. 100 cotton and a No. 12 hook for No. 70 cotton, and for coarser cottons a hook that will carry the thread easily without splitting it. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Stitches” (printed page 3), not by name. This book uses the older British-style naming, so its stitch names do NOT match modern US names: chain (ch) = ch; slip stitch (sl st) = sl st; “double” (d), “put hook through work, thread over hook and draw through, making two loops on needle; thread over again and draw through both loops” = modern US single crochet (sc); “half treble” (h t), thread over, draw through, then “draw through the three sts at once” = modern US half double crochet (hdc); “treble” (t), thread over, draw through, “draw through two, over again and draw through remaining two” = modern US double crochet (dc); “double treble” (d t), thread over twice and work off by twos three times = modern US treble crochet (tr); “long treble” (l t), thread over three times and “work all off by twos” = modern US double treble (dtr). Every stitch in these instructions has been rewritten in the modern US name and abbreviation on that basis.
  • Modernisation note: The book's picot (p) is defined on the same page: “A p is formed on a ch by joining the last four sts (or any given number) in a ring by working a d in the fourth st, counting from hook. In making p on d around the edge of motifs, the d is worked in the top of the last d.” Picots are written out as “picot” with the chain count the design gives, since the site's abbreviation list has no picot entry.
  • Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: d = sc, h t = hdc, t = dc, d t = tr, l t = dtr, st(s) = st(s), sp = sp, l = lp, bl = block, “miss” = sk, “thread over (the hook/needle)” = yo, “repeat” = rep, “needle” (for the crochet hook) = hook. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2d row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, and “1st round”/“2d round” as Rnd 1, Rnd 2. Section headings (Heading, Edge, Foundation) are the book's own where it prints them.
  • Modernisation note: The book gives this design as a continuation of Figure 56; the first three rows have to be worked from Figure 56's directions.
  • Modernisation note: The book prints each design as one or two solid paragraphs; these have been split into one row, round or step per line. Stitch order and counts are unchanged. Where the book's own repeat markers (*, **, ***) span several rows they are kept as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Check: Row 4 is set twice on facing pages of this copy, once as “3 t in space” and once as “2 t in space”. The larger number is the one printed on the cleaner setting (book page 38, images/p-32.jpg) and is used here.
  • Modernisation note: Thread sizes are the 1913 Cordonnet numbering. “No. N Cordonnet crochet cotton” is given as modern size N crochet thread, which is an approximation: modern size numbering runs the same way (higher number = finer thread) but the exact diameters are not identical. No yardage is printed anywhere in the book, so none is given here.
  • Modernisation note: Hook sizes are the book's own steel numbering (“For No. 100 cotton use a No. 13 hook, for No. 70 cotton a No. 12 hook; for coarser cottons use a hook that will carry the thread easily without splitting it”). The 1913 steel numbering is not identical to the modern one, so every metric size below is approximate and should be adjusted to the thread.
  • Modernisation note: No gauge and no finished measurements are printed for this design; work a sample repeat and adjust the hook until the lace lies flat at the width you want.
  • Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
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Row progress: 0 of 5 done (0%)

Edging

0 of 5 done
  1. Rows 1-3: The directions are the same as for the insertion, Figure 56, for 3 rows.
    Mark row complete
  2. Row 4: Begin at the opposite end, ch 12, make a picot in the 6th st; ch 3, 3 dc in the space between the 5 sc of Row 3; ch 9, picot in the 6th st; ch 3, 3 dc in the next space, to the end — always making the ch 9, the ch 12 being only made at the beginning of the row; turn.
    Mark row complete
  3. Row 5: Ch 8, 1 sc in the 1st picot; ch 7, from picot to picot across the length; turn.
    Mark row complete
  4. Row 6: Make 11 sc in the 1st ch of 7, and 5 sc, or half across the next ch; ch 11, turn, fasten in the 5th st of the first scallop, turn, and make 15 sc over this chain, on the unfinished chain of 6 sc and 5 sc to the middle of the next; ch 11, turn and catch in the middle of the second scallop, turn, 7 sc on half of this ch, then ch 11, turn, catch in the top of the first scallop on the second row, turn, 15 sc in this, 8 sc in the next, 6 sc in the next. This completes the first scallop.
    Mark row complete
  5. Rep from the first of the row to the end of the edge.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Rows 1-3: The directions are the same as for the insertion, Figure 56, for 3 rows.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Figure 92 Picot Scallop Edging (1913) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Finishing

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See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage edgings and trims collection: narrow crochet lace strips on folded linen

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the Figure 92. Edging pattern from?

It was published as "Figure 92. Edging" in The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1913. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Figure 92. Edging?

Size 100 crochet thread. Not printed — the book gives no thread quantity for any design.

What hook should I use?

Start with 0.75 mm (US steel 14) — approximate for the book's No. 13 hook; change size until the thread runs easily without splitting and the lace lies flat. Gauge: No gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread.

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