Free preview · full pattern in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims
Figure 7 Edging (1913): vintage crochet pattern
A square-mesh heading carrying a row of four-picot rings made on chains of ten, the rings then linked by chain bars and finished with a picot scallop row. Originally published as "Figure 7. Edging" in The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1913, it is now in the public domain.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Intermediate |
| Yarn weight | Lace (#0) |
| Yardage | the book gives no thread quantity for any design. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 0.75 mm |
| Gauge | No gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread. |
| Finished size | Not printed — the piece is worked to the length required. |
| Time | about 2 hours |
Materials
- Size 100 crochet thread — approximate modern equivalent of No. 100 Cordonnet crochet cotton
- 0.75 mm steel hook (US 14) — approximate for the book's No. 13 hook
- Fine tapestry or sewing needle for the ends
- Hook: Start with 0.75 mm (US steel 14) — approximate for the book's No. 13 hook; change size until the thread runs easily without splitting and the lace lies flat.
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic
315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture
2 skeins required
approx. $$10.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- slip stitch
- single crochet
- double crochet
- stitch
- stitches
- repeat
- row
- space
Notes before you start
- Source: "Figure 7. Edging", The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions, The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, 1913. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: No. 100 Cordonnet crochet cotton — from the book's general Materials paragraph: all of the edgings shown were made of No. 100 Cordonnet crochet cotton except those in which the number of cotton is specified in the directions; No. 13 hook — the book directs a No. 13 hook for No. 100 cotton and a No. 12 hook for No. 70 cotton, and for coarser cottons a hook that will carry the thread easily without splitting it. Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Stitches” (printed page 3), not by name. This book uses the older British-style naming, so its stitch names do NOT match modern US names: chain (ch) = ch; slip stitch (sl st) = sl st; “double” (d), “put hook through work, thread over hook and draw through, making two loops on needle; thread over again and draw through both loops” = modern US single crochet (sc); “half treble” (h t), thread over, draw through, then “draw through the three sts at once” = modern US half double crochet (hdc); “treble” (t), thread over, draw through, “draw through two, over again and draw through remaining two” = modern US double crochet (dc); “double treble” (d t), thread over twice and work off by twos three times = modern US treble crochet (tr); “long treble” (l t), thread over three times and “work all off by twos” = modern US double treble (dtr). Every stitch in these instructions has been rewritten in the modern US name and abbreviation on that basis.
- Modernisation note: The book's picot (p) is defined on the same page: “A p is formed on a ch by joining the last four sts (or any given number) in a ring by working a d in the fourth st, counting from hook. In making p on d around the edge of motifs, the d is worked in the top of the last d.” Picots are written out as “picot” with the chain count the design gives, since the site's abbreviation list has no picot entry.
- Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: d = sc, h t = hdc, t = dc, d t = tr, l t = dtr, st(s) = st(s), sp = sp, l = lp, bl = block, “miss” = sk, “thread over (the hook/needle)” = yo, “repeat” = rep, “needle” (for the crochet hook) = hook. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2d row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, and “1st round”/“2d round” as Rnd 1, Rnd 2. Section headings (Heading, Edge, Foundation) are the book's own where it prints them.
- Modernisation note: The book prints each design as one or two solid paragraphs; these have been split into one row, round or step per line. Stitch order and counts are unchanged. Where the book's own repeat markers (*, **, ***) span several rows they are kept as printed.
- Modernisation note: The book writes the ring row as “4 d, 4 ch, 4 d, 4 ch, 4 d, 4 ch, 4 d, in ring just made”; that is written here as (4 sc, ch 4) three times and 4 sc, which is the same sequence.
- Modernisation note: Thread sizes are the 1913 Cordonnet numbering. “No. N Cordonnet crochet cotton” is given as modern size N crochet thread, which is an approximation: modern size numbering runs the same way (higher number = finer thread) but the exact diameters are not identical. No yardage is printed anywhere in the book, so none is given here.
- Modernisation note: Hook sizes are the book's own steel numbering (“For No. 100 cotton use a No. 13 hook, for No. 70 cotton a No. 12 hook; for coarser cottons use a hook that will carry the thread easily without splitting it”). The 1913 steel numbering is not identical to the modern one, so every metric size below is approximate and should be adjusted to the thread.
- Modernisation note: No gauge and no finished measurements are printed for this design; work a sample repeat and adjust the hook until the lace lies flat at the width you want.
- Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
Row progress: 0 of 7 done (0%)
Edging
0 of 7 done- Make a ch a little longer than the desired length.Mark row complete
- Turn, 1 dc in the 6th ch, ch 2, 1 dc in every 3rd ch to the end. This makes a row of squares.Mark row complete
- Turn, ch 5, 1 dc on the dc of the first square, ch 2, 1 dc on the dc of the next square; rep to the end.Mark row complete
- Turn, 2 sc in the first square. Turn, ch 10, 1 sl st in the last sc.Mark row complete
- Turn, (4 sc, ch 4) three times and 4 sc in the ring just made; 2 sc in the first square, 4 sc in each of the next three squares, 2 sc in the next square, ch 10, join as in the first and rep to the end of the squares.Mark row complete
- Turn, sl st up to the 1st picot, ch 11, fasten in the 3rd picot, ch 4, fasten with a sl st in the 1st picot of the next ring; rep to the end.Mark row complete
- Turn, (4 sc, ch 5) three times and 4 sc over the ch 11, fasten with a sl st in the picot, (3 sc, ch 5, 3 sc) over the ch 4; rep to the end.Mark row complete
Working on:
Make a ch a little longer than the desired length.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Figure 7 Edging (1913) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Finishing
Included with 618 patterns for $9 — $0.01 per pattern.

Errata
No corrections have been published for this pattern. Found a mistake? Tell us and we will log the fix here with a date.
Your notes on this pattern
Keep track of the yarn, hook and changes you used. Saved in this browser only — nobody else can see it.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the Figure 7. Edging pattern from?
It was published as "Figure 7. Edging" in The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1913. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Figure 7. Edging?
Size 100 crochet thread. Not printed — the book gives no thread quantity for any design.
What hook should I use?
Start with 0.75 mm (US steel 14) — approximate for the book's No. 13 hook; change size until the thread runs easily without splitting and the lace lies flat. Gauge: No gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread.







