Free preview · full pattern in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims

Figure 52 Cluster Diamond Insertion (1913): vintage crochet pattern

An insertion built from small clusters — two double crochet on a chain of five, closed with a chain-4 loop — linked into diamonds, edged on both sides with five-picot scallops, and finished with optional chain bars for threading ribbon.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Book page 15 — the directions for Figure 52 begin here.
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Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelAdvanced
Yarn weightLace (#0)
Yardagethe book gives no thread quantity for any design. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook0.75 mm
GaugeNo gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread.
Finished sizeNot printed — the piece is worked to the length required.
Timeabout 5 hours

Materials

  • Size 100 crochet thread — approximate modern equivalent of No. 100 Cordonnet crochet cotton
  • 0.75 mm steel hook (US 14) — approximate for the book's No. 13 hook
  • Fine tapestry or sewing needle for the ends
  • Narrow ribbon, optional, to run through the chain bars
  • Hook: Start with 0.75 mm (US steel 14) — approximate for the book's No. 13 hook; change size until the thread runs easily without splitting and the lace lies flat.
Smart Yarn Matcher

Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
slip stitch
single crochet
double crochet
stitch
stitches
loop
repeat
row
cluster

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Figure 52. Insertion", The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions, The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, 1913. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: No. 100 Cordonnet crochet cotton — from the book's general Materials paragraph: all of the edgings shown were made of No. 100 Cordonnet crochet cotton except those in which the number of cotton is specified in the directions; No. 13 hook — the book directs a No. 13 hook for No. 100 cotton and a No. 12 hook for No. 70 cotton, and for coarser cottons a hook that will carry the thread easily without splitting it; Narrow ribbon, if the chains for ribbon are worked. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Stitches” (printed page 3), not by name. This book uses the older British-style naming, so its stitch names do NOT match modern US names: chain (ch) = ch; slip stitch (sl st) = sl st; “double” (d), “put hook through work, thread over hook and draw through, making two loops on needle; thread over again and draw through both loops” = modern US single crochet (sc); “half treble” (h t), thread over, draw through, then “draw through the three sts at once” = modern US half double crochet (hdc); “treble” (t), thread over, draw through, “draw through two, over again and draw through remaining two” = modern US double crochet (dc); “double treble” (d t), thread over twice and work off by twos three times = modern US treble crochet (tr); “long treble” (l t), thread over three times and “work all off by twos” = modern US double treble (dtr). Every stitch in these instructions has been rewritten in the modern US name and abbreviation on that basis.
  • Modernisation note: The book's picot (p) is defined on the same page: “A p is formed on a ch by joining the last four sts (or any given number) in a ring by working a d in the fourth st, counting from hook. In making p on d around the edge of motifs, the d is worked in the top of the last d.” Picots are written out as “picot” with the chain count the design gives, since the site's abbreviation list has no picot entry.
  • Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: d = sc, h t = hdc, t = dc, d t = tr, l t = dtr, st(s) = st(s), sp = sp, l = lp, bl = block, “miss” = sk, “thread over (the hook/needle)” = yo, “repeat” = rep, “needle” (for the crochet hook) = hook. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2d row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, and “1st round”/“2d round” as Rnd 1, Rnd 2. Section headings (Heading, Edge, Foundation) are the book's own where it prints them.
  • Modernisation note: The book prints each design as one or two solid paragraphs; these have been split into one row, round or step per line. Stitch order and counts are unchanged. Where the book's own repeat markers (*, **, ***) span several rows they are kept as printed.
  • Modernisation note: The directions run across a column break in the book (“continued from page 15” on page 16 and on to page 17); they are set out here in one continuous sequence.
  • Modernisation note: Thread sizes are the 1913 Cordonnet numbering. “No. N Cordonnet crochet cotton” is given as modern size N crochet thread, which is an approximation: modern size numbering runs the same way (higher number = finer thread) but the exact diameters are not identical. No yardage is printed anywhere in the book, so none is given here.
  • Modernisation note: Hook sizes are the book's own steel numbering (“For No. 100 cotton use a No. 13 hook, for No. 70 cotton a No. 12 hook; for coarser cottons use a hook that will carry the thread easily without splitting it”). The 1913 steel numbering is not identical to the modern one, so every metric size below is approximate and should be adjusted to the thread.
  • Modernisation note: No gauge and no finished measurements are printed for this design; work a sample repeat and adjust the hook until the lace lies flat at the width you want.
  • Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 6 done (0%)

Clusters

0 of 6 done
  1. 1st cl: Ch 5, 2 dc in the 1st st of the ch 5, ch 4, 1 sl st in the same st, ch 5, 1 sl st in each of the 2 dc, taking up both loops of the st.
    Mark row complete
  2. 2nd cl: Ch 5, 2 dc in the 1st st of the ch 5, ch 4, * insert the hook down through the same st with the 2 dc and bring it out underneath on the opposite side, catch the thread and pull it through the work and the st on the hook, making a sl st, * ch 5, 1 sl st in each of the 2 dc on top.
    Mark row complete
  3. 3rd cl: Ch 5, 2 dc in the 1st st of the ch 5, ch 4, rep from * to *, ch 5, 2 sl sts in the 2 dc on top, ch 4, insert the hook in the 4th st of the first ch 4 of the cl, then through the same st with the 2 dc (which appears like a connecting st between the clusters), and make 1 sl st.
    Mark row complete
  4. 4th cl: Like the 2nd cl.
    Mark row complete
  5. 5th cl: Ch 5, 2 dc in the 1st st of the ch 5, ch 4, rep from * to *.
    Mark row complete
  6. Rep the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th clusters over and over until you have the length desired, ending with what should be the 5th cluster but making it just like the second, to bring the hook and thread into the proper position.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

1st cl: Ch 5, 2 dc in the 1st st of the ch 5, ch 4, 1 sl st in the same st, ch 5, 1 sl st in each of the 2 dc, taking up both loops of the st.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Figure 52 Cluster Diamond Insertion (1913) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Row 2 — the diamonds
  • Row 3
  • Row 4 — picot edge
  • Chains for ribbon
  • Finishing

Included with 618 patterns for $9 — $0.01 per pattern.

See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage edgings and trims collection: narrow crochet lace strips on folded linen

Errata

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the Figure 52. Insertion pattern from?

It was published as "Figure 52. Insertion" in The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1913. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Figure 52. Insertion?

Size 100 crochet thread. Not printed — the book gives no thread quantity for any design.

What hook should I use?

Start with 0.75 mm (US steel 14) — approximate for the book's No. 13 hook; change size until the thread runs easily without splitting and the lace lies flat. Gauge: No gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread.

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