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Figure 51 Crossed Medallion Braid Edging (1913): vintage crochet pattern
A lace made by doubling a medallion braid and crossing the medallions over a small crocheted ring, with a graded run of stitches from single crochet up to a long treble between each pair, then a chain-and-picot bottom edge and a filet heading with crocheted stars between the circles.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Advanced |
| Yarn weight | Lace (#0) |
| Yardage | the book gives no thread quantity for any design. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 0.6 mm |
| Gauge | No gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread. |
| Finished size | Not printed — the piece is worked to the length required. |
| Time | about 3 hours |
Materials
- Size 150 crochet thread — approximate modern equivalent of No. 150 Cordonnet crochet cotton; very fine
- 0.6–0.75 mm steel hook (US 14) — approximate for the book's No. 13 steel hook
- Medallion lace braid — no width or yardage printed
- Sewing needle and thread for fastening the crossed medallions
- Hook: Start with 0.6 mm (US steel 14 or finer) — approximate for the book's No. 13 steel hook; change size so the thread runs easily without splitting.
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic
315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture
2 skeins required
approx. $$10.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- slip stitch
- single crochet
- half double crochet
- double crochet
- treble crochet
- double treble crochet
- stitch
- stitches
- skip
- repeat
- round
- row
Notes before you start
- Source: "Figure 51. Edging", The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions, The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, 1913. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: No. 150 Cordonnet crochet cotton; No. 13 steel hook; Medallion braid (doubled in the centre); Sewing needle and thread. Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Stitches” (printed page 3), not by name. This book uses the older British-style naming, so its stitch names do NOT match modern US names: chain (ch) = ch; slip stitch (sl st) = sl st; “double” (d), “put hook through work, thread over hook and draw through, making two loops on needle; thread over again and draw through both loops” = modern US single crochet (sc); “half treble” (h t), thread over, draw through, then “draw through the three sts at once” = modern US half double crochet (hdc); “treble” (t), thread over, draw through, “draw through two, over again and draw through remaining two” = modern US double crochet (dc); “double treble” (d t), thread over twice and work off by twos three times = modern US treble crochet (tr); “long treble” (l t), thread over three times and “work all off by twos” = modern US double treble (dtr). Every stitch in these instructions has been rewritten in the modern US name and abbreviation on that basis.
- Modernisation note: The book's picot (p) is defined on the same page: “A p is formed on a ch by joining the last four sts (or any given number) in a ring by working a d in the fourth st, counting from hook. In making p on d around the edge of motifs, the d is worked in the top of the last d.” Picots are written out as “picot” with the chain count the design gives, since the site's abbreviation list has no picot entry.
- Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: d = sc, h t = hdc, t = dc, d t = tr, l t = dtr, st(s) = st(s), sp = sp, l = lp, bl = block, “miss” = sk, “thread over (the hook/needle)” = yo, “repeat” = rep, “needle” (for the crochet hook) = hook. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2d row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, and “1st round”/“2d round” as Rnd 1, Rnd 2. Section headings (Heading, Edge, Foundation) are the book's own where it prints them.
- Modernisation note: The book prints each design as one or two solid paragraphs; these have been split into one row, round or step per line. Stitch order and counts are unchanged. Where the book's own repeat markers (*, **, ***) span several rows they are kept as printed.
- Modernisation note: Check: the heading's Row 2 is printed “One t in 4th st of 19 ch”, but the preceding row makes chains of 7, 15 and 32, not 19. The count of that one chain could not be read with confidence, so it is written here as “the 4th st of the ch”; count from the photograph on book page 15 when working it.
- Modernisation note: Check: the braid is a bought medallion lace braid and the book gives no width, brand or quantity for it.
- Modernisation note: Thread sizes are the 1913 Cordonnet numbering. “No. N Cordonnet crochet cotton” is given as modern size N crochet thread, which is an approximation: modern size numbering runs the same way (higher number = finer thread) but the exact diameters are not identical. No yardage is printed anywhere in the book, so none is given here.
- Modernisation note: Hook sizes are the book's own steel numbering (“For No. 100 cotton use a No. 13 hook, for No. 70 cotton a No. 12 hook; for coarser cottons use a hook that will carry the thread easily without splitting it”). The 1913 steel numbering is not identical to the modern one, so every metric size below is approximate and should be adjusted to the thread.
- Modernisation note: No gauge and no finished measurements are printed for this design; work a sample repeat and adjust the hook until the lace lies flat at the width you want.
- Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
Row progress: 0 of 5 done (0%)
Circle of medallions
0 of 5 done- Double the braid in the centre and cross the first two medallions, and fasten securely with needle and thread.Mark row complete
- Ch 9, join with a sl st.Mark row complete
- Rnd 1: 18 sc in the ring, join to the 1st sc with a sl st.Mark row complete
- Rnd 2: * Ch 13, take the hook out of the work, insert it in the first medallion on the lower side next to the joining, a little more than one-eighth of an inch (about 3 mm) from the end, catch the 13th st and pull it through, 1 sl st in each of the next 4 sts of the ch, ch 5, pull the 5th st through the medallion on the other side of the joining, the same distance from the end, 1 sl st in each of the next 4 sts of the ch, 1 sl st across into the next st of the main ch, then 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 1 dtr in the next 7 sts of the ch, sk 1 sc on the ring, 1 dc in the next sc; rep from * (crossing the fourth medallions, the upper over the lower one but not fastening them together) to the first point, join, break the thread and fasten.Mark row complete
- Rep until you have the length desired.Mark row complete
Working on:
Double the braid in the centre and cross the first two medallions, and fasten securely with needle and thread.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Figure 51 Crossed Medallion Braid Edging (1913) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Bottom edge
- Heading
- Finishing
Included with 618 patterns for $9 — $0.01 per pattern.

Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Figure 51. Edging pattern from?
It was published as "Figure 51. Edging" in The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1913. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Figure 51. Edging?
Size 150 crochet thread. Not printed — the book gives no thread quantity for any design.
What hook should I use?
Start with 0.6 mm (US steel 14 or finer) — approximate for the book's No. 13 steel hook; change size so the thread runs easily without splitting. Gauge: No gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread.







