Free preview · full pattern in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims

Figure 34 Diamond and Fan Edging (1913): vintage crochet pattern

A shell band with an open diamond between the shells; every fourth row the diamond is closed and filled with rows of seven double crochet, and a deep fan of chain loops covered with nine single crochet is built out below.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Book page 9 — the directions for Figure 34 begin here.
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Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelAdvanced
Yarn weightLace (#0)
Yardagethe book gives no thread quantity for any design. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook0.75 mm
GaugeNo gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread.
Finished sizeNot printed — the piece is worked to the length required.
Timeabout 6 hours

Materials

  • Size 100 crochet thread — approximate modern equivalent of No. 100 Cordonnet crochet cotton
  • 0.75 mm steel hook (US 14) — approximate for the book's No. 13 hook
  • Fine tapestry or sewing needle for the ends
  • Hook: Start with 0.75 mm (US steel 14) — approximate for the book's No. 13 hook; change size until the thread runs easily without splitting and the lace lies flat.
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Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
slip stitch
single crochet
double crochet
stitch
stitches
skip
loop
repeat
row
shell

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Figure 34. Edging", The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions, The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, 1913. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: No. 100 Cordonnet crochet cotton — from the book's general Materials paragraph: all of the edgings shown were made of No. 100 Cordonnet crochet cotton except those in which the number of cotton is specified in the directions; No. 13 hook — the book directs a No. 13 hook for No. 100 cotton and a No. 12 hook for No. 70 cotton, and for coarser cottons a hook that will carry the thread easily without splitting it. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Stitches” (printed page 3), not by name. This book uses the older British-style naming, so its stitch names do NOT match modern US names: chain (ch) = ch; slip stitch (sl st) = sl st; “double” (d), “put hook through work, thread over hook and draw through, making two loops on needle; thread over again and draw through both loops” = modern US single crochet (sc); “half treble” (h t), thread over, draw through, then “draw through the three sts at once” = modern US half double crochet (hdc); “treble” (t), thread over, draw through, “draw through two, over again and draw through remaining two” = modern US double crochet (dc); “double treble” (d t), thread over twice and work off by twos three times = modern US treble crochet (tr); “long treble” (l t), thread over three times and “work all off by twos” = modern US double treble (dtr). Every stitch in these instructions has been rewritten in the modern US name and abbreviation on that basis.
  • Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: d = sc, h t = hdc, t = dc, d t = tr, l t = dtr, st(s) = st(s), sp = sp, l = lp, bl = block, “miss” = sk, “thread over (the hook/needle)” = yo, “repeat” = rep, “needle” (for the crochet hook) = hook. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2d row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, and “1st round”/“2d round” as Rnd 1, Rnd 2. Section headings (Heading, Edge, Foundation) are the book's own where it prints them.
  • Modernisation note: The book prints Row 10 as one very long paragraph; it is split here into several lines marked “Row 10 (continued)” with the stitch order unchanged, because the book gives no further row numbers until Row 11.
  • Modernisation note: The book prints each design as one or two solid paragraphs; these have been split into one row, round or step per line. Stitch order and counts are unchanged. Where the book's own repeat markers (*, **, ***) span several rows they are kept as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Thread sizes are the 1913 Cordonnet numbering. “No. N Cordonnet crochet cotton” is given as modern size N crochet thread, which is an approximation: modern size numbering runs the same way (higher number = finer thread) but the exact diameters are not identical. No yardage is printed anywhere in the book, so none is given here.
  • Modernisation note: Hook sizes are the book's own steel numbering (“For No. 100 cotton use a No. 13 hook, for No. 70 cotton a No. 12 hook; for coarser cottons use a hook that will carry the thread easily without splitting it”). The 1913 steel numbering is not identical to the modern one, so every metric size below is approximate and should be adjusted to the thread.
  • Modernisation note: No gauge and no finished measurements are printed for this design; work a sample repeat and adjust the hook until the lace lies flat at the width you want.
  • Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 17 done (0%)

Edging

0 of 17 done
  1. Make a ch of 14 sts.
    Mark row complete
  2. Row 1: 1 dc in the 4th st, 2 more dc in the same st, ch 2, 3 dc in the next st (this pair of 3-dc groups with ch 2 between is the shell), ch 8, sk 7 sts, 3 dc in the next st, ch 2, 3 dc in the next st; turn.
    Mark row complete
  3. Row 2: Ch 5, shell in shell, ch 8, shell in shell; turn.
    Mark row complete
  4. Row 3: Ch 5, shell in shell, ch 8, shell in shell, ch 1, 1 dc under the ch 5; turn.
    Mark row complete
  5. Row 4: Ch 5, shell in shell, ch 7, 1 sc over all 3 chs; turn; ch 2, 7 dc under the ch 7; turn; ch 2, 7 dc between the 7 dc (the last one made under the ch 2 at the end), twice more; shell in shell; turn.
    Mark row complete
  6. Row 5: Ch 5, shell in shell, ch 8, shell in shell, ch 1, 1 dc under the ch 5; turn.
    Mark row complete
  7. Row 6: Ch 5, shell in shell, ch 8, shell in shell; turn.
    Mark row complete
  8. Row 7: Ch 5, shell in shell, ch 8, shell in shell, ch 1, 1 dc under the ch 5; turn.
    Mark row complete
  9. Row 8: Like Row 4, making 1 sc over the 3 chains into the point of the diamond; turn.
    Mark row complete
  10. Row 9: Like Row 5; turn.
    Mark row complete
  11. Row 10: Like Row 6 to the last shell in shell, then ch 5, 1 shell under the ch 5 between Rows 8 and 9, ch 2, 3 dc under the next ch 5, ch 5, 3 dc under the next ch 5, ch 2, shell in the next ch 5, ch 5, 1 sl st in the ch 3 at the end of Row 1; turn.
    Mark row complete
  12. Row 10 (continued): 9 sc under the ch 5, shell in shell, ch 2, 10 dc under the next ch 5, ch 2, shell in shell; turn.
    Mark row complete
  13. Row 10 (continued): Ch 5, shell in shell, ch 1, 1 sc between the first 2 dc on the ch 5, (ch 4, 1 sc between the next 2 dc), rep to the end of the dc, ch 1, shell in shell, ch 5, 1 sl st between the last dc of the shell and the next sc, ch 1, 9 sc over the ch 5, shell in shell, ch 2, 1 sc under the first ch 4, (ch 4, 1 sc under the next ch 4), rep in each lp, ch 2, shell in shell; turn.
    Mark row complete
  14. Row 10 (continued): Ch 5, shell in shell, ch 2, 1 sc under the first lp, (ch 4, 1 sc in the next), in each lp, ch 2, shell in shell, ch 5, 1 sl st at the end of the last dc, ch 1, 9 sc under the ch 5, shell in shell, ch 2, 1 sc under the first lp, ch 4, 1 sc under the remaining lps, ch 2, shell in shell; turn; ch 5, shell in shell.
    Mark row complete
  15. Row 10 (continued): Continue working back and forth in this manner until you have but one lp at the top, then ch 5, shell in shell, ch 2, 1 dc in the centre lp, ch 2, shell in shell, ch 5, 1 sl st between the 3rd dc and the sc, ch 1, 9 sc in the lp of ch 5, 6 dc in place of the shell, 1 dc on the dc, 6 dc in the next ch 3; turn; ch 6, 1 sc in the dc, ch 6, 1 sl st at the end of the 6 dc, ch 1, 9 sc under the ch 6, 5 sc under the next ch; without turning, ch 5, pull the last st through the 5 sc of the first lp, ch 1, 9 sc over the lp, 4 sc over the next lp, 9 sc over each lp to the bottom of the scallop.
    Mark row complete
  16. Row 11: Shell in shell, ch 8, shell in shell, ch 1, 1 dc under the ch 5.
    Mark row complete
  17. Rep from Row 4 for the length required.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Make a ch of 14 sts.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Figure 34 Diamond and Fan Edging (1913) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Finishing

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See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage edgings and trims collection: narrow crochet lace strips on folded linen

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the Figure 34. Edging pattern from?

It was published as "Figure 34. Edging" in The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1913. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Figure 34. Edging?

Size 100 crochet thread. Not printed — the book gives no thread quantity for any design.

What hook should I use?

Start with 0.75 mm (US steel 14) — approximate for the book's No. 13 hook; change size until the thread runs easily without splitting and the lace lies flat. Gauge: No gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread.

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