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Lavender and Pink Knot Stitch Handkerchief Border #8110 (1951): vintage crochet pattern

A lacy handkerchief border made of rows of double knot stitch (Solomon's knot) alternating with double-picot loops, finished with a treble and picot fan edge. Originally published as "Lavender and Pink Edging with Knot Stitch Border" in Edgings: crocheted, tatted, hair pin lace (Star Book No. 81) by American Thread Company in 1951, it is now in the public domain.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Reviewed · Editorial policy

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Reviewed September 14, 2026 under our editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Centre pages of the 1951 leaflet showing handkerchief edgings #818–#8113, including the knot stitch border #8110.
Lavender · Shaded PinksSave to Pinterest
Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelAdvanced
Yarn weightLace (#0)
Yardage2 balls lavender and 1 ball shaded pinks (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook0.85 mm
GaugeNot given in the original. Suggestion: each knot loop is drawn up to ³/₁₆ in (5 mm) as printed; keep every loop the same length.
Finished sizeNot given in the original; knot stitches are spaced about ⁵/₁₆ in (8 mm) apart along the hemstitched edge.
Timeabout 3 hours

Materials

  • Fine crochet cotton (about size 70–80), lavender and shaded pink — check the ball band for yardage
  • 0.85 mm steel crochet hook
  • A hemstitched handkerchief
  • Hook: Start with a 0.85 mm steel hook (the original No. 13) and change size to match the gauge

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch
chain
sc
single crochet
tr
treble crochet
sl st
slip stitch
sk
skip
sp
space
st
stitch
rep
repeat

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Lavender and Pink Edging with Knot Stitch Border" (#8110), Edgings: crocheted, tatted, hair pin lace (Star Book No. 81), American Thread Company, 1951. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “STAR” TATTING CROCHET, Article 25; 2 balls Lavender; 1 ball Shaded Pinks; 1 Handkerchief; Steel crochet hook No. 13. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Abbreviations respelled to modern US style using the leaflet's own abbreviation table: s c → sc, s d c (short double crochet) → hdc, d c → dc, tr c → tr, d tr c → dtr; “thread over” → “yarn over”. Stitches, order and counts are unchanged.
  • Modernisation note: Instructions split into one row, round or step per line; the original prints them as running paragraphs.
  • Modernisation note: Hook conversion: the leaflet uses the mid-century US steel hook numbering; the metric size given is the usual modern equivalent (No. 7 ≈ 1.65 mm, No. 11 ≈ 1.1 mm, No. 12 ≈ 1.0 mm, No. 13 ≈ 0.85 mm). Old hooks varied — match the gauge suggestion rather than the number.
  • Modernisation note: Thread: the original “Star” Tatting Crochet (Article 25) is a fine mercerised cotton with no size printed; a modern fine crochet cotton (around size 70–80) is the closest match. Check your ball band for yardage.
  • Modernisation note: The “double knot st” is the stitch now usually called Solomon's knot (love knot); the original's own definition is kept word for word.
  • Modernisation note: Rows 3 and 7–9 are described in the original as “work 1 more row” and “work 3 more rows” rather than numbered; they are kept as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Finishing steps are our addition.

Rows

  1. Attach Lavender in corner and work a double knot st (double knot st: * draw up a ³/₁₆ inch loop on hook, yarn over hook and pull through loop forming a ch st, sc over single loop of st, repeat from * once), sc in same space, * work a double knot st, skip 3 hemstitched spaces or about ⁵/₁₆ inch space, sc in next space, repeat from * all around having an uneven number of double knot sts on each side without counting corner double knot st working all corners same as 1st corner and ending row with double knot st, sc in same space as beginning.
  2. 2nd Row—Double knot st, sc in loop to right of sc of corner double knot st, double knot st, sc in loop to left of sc of same corner double knot st (an increase), * double knot st, sc in center sc of next double knot st, repeat from * all around increasing 1 double knot st at each corner.
  3. Without joining rows work 1 more row of double knot sts increasing 1 double knot st in each corner ending row with double knot st, sc in center sc of double knot st to right of corner double knot st, cut thread.
  4. 4th Row—Attach Shaded Pinks in same space, * ch 5, sl st in 3rd st from hook for picot, repeat from * once, ch 2, sl st in loop to right of sc of corner double knot st, ch 5, sl st in 3rd st from hook for picot, ch 5, sl st in 3rd st from hook for picot, ch 2 (double picot loop), sl st in loop to left of sc of same double knot st, * work a double picot loop, sl st in center sc of next double knot st, repeat from * all around to last free knot st working all corners same as 1st corner, work a double picot loop, sl st in center of 1st double picot loop made.
  5. 5th Row—Double picot loop, sl st between picots of corner loop, double picot loop, sl st in same space, * double picot loop, sl st between picots of next double picot loop, repeat from * all around working all corners same as 1st corner and joining last double picot loop in center of loop to right of corner, cut thread.
  6. 6th Row—Attach Lavender in same space, work a double knot st, sc between the 2 picots of corner loop, double knot st, sc in same space, * double knot st, sc between picots of next loop, repeat from * all around working all corners same as 1st corner.
  7. Without joining rows work 3 more rows of double knot sts increasing 1 double knot st at each corner ending last row with sc in center of double knot st to right of corner double knot st, cut thread.
  8. Next Row—Attach Shaded Pinks in same space, ch 3, tr in center sc of corner double knot st, ch 3, sl st in top of tr for picot, * ch 2, tr in same space, ch 3, sl st in top of last tr for picot, repeat from * 3 times, * ch 3, sc in center sc of next double knot st, ch 3, tr in center sc of next double knot st, ch 3, sl st in top of tr for picot, ch 2, tr in same space, picot, ch 2, tr in same space, picot, repeat from * all around working all corners same as 1st corner, cut thread.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Lavender and Pink Knot Stitch Handkerchief Border #8110 (1951) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Finishing

Included with 18 patterns for $9 — $0.50 per pattern.

See what's inside
Original mid-century photographs from the edgings collection

Errata

No corrections have been published for this pattern. Found a mistake? Tell us and we will log the fix here with a date.

Frequently asked questions

Where is the Lavender and Pink Edging with Knot Stitch Border pattern from?

It was published as "Lavender and Pink Edging with Knot Stitch Border" in Edgings: crocheted, tatted, hair pin lace (Star Book No. 81) by American Thread Company in 1951. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Lavender and Pink Edging with Knot Stitch Border?

Fine tatting crochet cotton (size not printed; about size 70–80). The original uses 2 balls lavender and 1 ball shaded pinks; check your ball band.

What hook should I use?

Start with a 0.85 mm steel hook (the original No. 13) and change size to match the gauge Gauge: Not given in the original. Suggestion: each knot loop is drawn up to ³/₁₆ in (5 mm) as printed; keep every loop the same length.

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