Free preview · full pattern in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims
Mimosa Edging: vintage crochet pattern
A three-row scalloped edging suitable for underwear: a ring carries a fan of four double crochet, the second row opens it into seven small chain spaces, and the third fills each with a picot pair of single crochet. The last picot of one scallop becomes the ring of the next.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Intermediate |
| Yarn weight | Lace (#0) |
| Yardage | Not printed; see modernisation notes. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 1.5 mm |
| Gauge | Not printed; work a sample and change hook size to suit. |
| Finished size | Not printed; worked to the length required. |
| Time | about 2 hours |
Materials
- A fine white cotton crochet thread, about size 20 to 40 — ours; this design names no thread at all
- A fine steel hook to suit the thread
- Hook: Start with about 1.5 mm (US steel 7) — ours, approximate. The book prints no hook for this design. Change size until the fabric is firm and even.
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic
315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture
2 skeins required
approx. $$10.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- single crochet
- double crochet
- space
- repeat
- row
- loop
Notes before you start
- Source: "Mimosa Edging", The Home Art Crochet Book (edited by Flora Klickmann), The Office of “The Girl's Own Paper & Woman's Magazine”, 4 Bouverie Street E.C., & 65 St. Paul's Churchyard, London; printed by Curtis & Beamish, Ltd., Coventry, England. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: No thread or hook is named for this design. The book captions the engraving “Suitable for Underwear”.. Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own printed key and its own printed wrap counts, not by stitch name. This is a BRITISH book. The key stands at the head of book page 1 (image p-008.jpg) under the heading “Abbreviations used.” and reads: “ch = chain ; s c = single crochet ; d c = double crochet ; tr = treble ; d tr = double treble ; l tr = long treble ; sp = space ; st = stitch.” The book then glosses its tall stitches with wrap counts in the directions themselves, which fixes the ladder beyond argument: “turn the thread twice around the needle for a long tr” (book page 2) and “3 long tr (thread twice over hook)” (book page 9) make the long treble a 2-wrap, 4-loop stitch — the modern US treble; “3 triple tr into the ring (thread three times over the needle)” (book page 6) makes the triple treble a 3-wrap, 5-loop stitch — the modern US double treble; and “a quadruple tr (thread four times over the needle)” (book page 13) takes 4 wraps. Counting back down that ladder the book's plain tr can only be a 1-wrap, 3-loop stitch, which is the modern US double crochet, and its d c — worked with no wrap — is the modern US single crochet. Its “s c”, the old British single crochet, is the flat joining stitch and is written sl st. So here: d c = sc, tr = dc, long tr and d tr = tr, triple tr = dtr, s c = sl st, miss = sk.
- Modernisation note: The printed directions run as solid paragraphs, and where the book numbers its rows it does so as “1st Row.”, “2nd Row.” and so on. They are split here into one row or step per line and the ordinals are written Row 1, Row 2, Row 3. Where the book starts a new row with only “Turn with …” and no number, a number is supplied in sequence and the change is noted. Stitch order and counts are unchanged.
- Modernisation note: The scan of this book carries the usual optical-reading slips and every figure below was read back against the page image: the scan's “lst” and “Ist” are 1st, its “8rd” is 3rd, its “11zh” is 11th, its “de” for a stitch is d c, its “ir” is tr, its “trs” is tr, its “inte” is into, its “imsert” is insert, its “donble” is double, its “crocliet” is crochet, and its “miss3 ch” is miss 3 ch. These are scanning artefacts, not printed errors, and they are corrected silently in the rows; genuine PRINTED slips are a different matter and are always flagged with a “Check:” note instead of being quietly mended.
- Modernisation note: Hooks are printed only as period British maker's numbers (“No. 6 crochet-hook”, “No. 5 hook”, “a medium fine crochet-hook”) with no diameters, and those numbers do not map onto the modern scale. Any metric size given in the modern materials is ours and is a starting point only.
- Modernisation note: No gauge, tension or stitch-per-inch figure is printed for this design, or for any design in this book. Work a sample and change hook size to suit the thread.
- Modernisation note: No yardage is estimated. The book never prints a ball length, a reel length or a quantity for any design — it names a thread and a hook and nothing more — so there is no printed basis for a yardage figure and none is invented here.
- Modernisation note: No finished measurement is printed for this design. Like every edging and insertion in this book it is worked to the length required, and its depth is set by the stitch counts printed, not by any measurement the book gives.
- Modernisation note: The design runs across a page turn, from the foot of book page 3 to the head of book page 4 (images p-010.jpg and p-011.jpg). Both halves print in full and are joined here unchanged.
- Modernisation note: This design spells its stitches out in words in the first row (“4 treble into the ring”) and abbreviates them afterwards. The same key applies throughout: the book's treble is written dc and its double crochet sc.
- Modernisation note: No thread and no hook are printed for this design. The modern thread and hook given above are ours and are a starting point only.
Row progress: 0 of 5 done (0%)
The scallop
0 of 5 done- Ch 7 and join in a ring. * Ch 7, 4 dc into the ring, ch 3, 1 dc into the ring, ch 8, 1 dc into the ring.Mark row complete
- Row 2: Ch 7, 4 dc into the second space, ch 3, 1 dc also into the second space, ch 3, 1 dc into the first of the 4 dc in the previous row, ch 3, 1 dc into the last of the 4 dc in the previous row, * ch 3, 1 dc into the loop at the end of the previous row, repeat from * 3 times (making 4 times in all).Mark row complete
- Row 3: * 2 sc, ch 5, 2 sc, into the first space formed by the 3 ch in the previous row. (The sc to come close together for the intervening 5 ch to form a picot.) Repeat from * into each of the remaining 6 small spaces.Mark row complete
- The last little picot loop (that is, the 5 chain between the single crochets) forms the ring for the commencement of the next scallop.Mark row complete
- This ends the first scallop; for the remaining scallops go back to the beginning, and repeat from * to the end of Row 2. Then make 1 sc into the 6th picot of the previous scallop (this is to unite the scallops), then proceed with the directions for Row 3 as already given.Mark row complete
Working on:
Ch 7 and join in a ring. * Ch 7, 4 dc into the ring, ch 3, 1 dc into the ring, ch 8, 1 dc into the ring.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Mimosa Edging pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims
Still to come in the full pattern:
- To form the edge for sewing on
- Finishing
Included with 618 patterns for $9 — $0.01 per pattern.

Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Mimosa Edging pattern from?
It was published as "Mimosa Edging" in The Home Art Crochet Book (edited by Flora Klickmann) by The Office of “The Girl's Own Paper & Woman's Magazine”, 4 Bouverie Street E.C., & 65 St. Paul's Churchyard, London; printed by Curtis & Beamish, Ltd., Coventry, England. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Mimosa Edging?
Not printed for this design; about size 20 to 40 crochet cotton is a reasonable modern choice. Not printed; see modernisation notes.
What hook should I use?
Start with about 1.5 mm (US steel 7) — ours, approximate. The book prints no hook for this design. Change size until the fabric is firm and even. Gauge: Not printed; work a sample and change hook size to suit.







