Guipure Lace (1891): vintage crochet pattern

Materials

• Crochet cotton or linen thread — the book prints no size; its own section title names cotton and linen
• Steel crochet hook to suit the thread
• Tapestry needle for the ends
• Hook: Check: the book prints no hook number for any design in this section, so no modern hook can be read across from a printed size. Match the hook to whatever thread you choose, and change size until the lace lies flat.

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch

chain

sc

single crochet

dc

double crochet

sl st

slip stitch

st

stitch

sts

stitches

sk

skip

sh

shell

sp

space

lp

loop

yo

yarn over

rep

repeat

row

row

Notes before you start

• Source: "Guipure Lace" (No. 78), Home Work: a choice collection of useful designs for the crochet and knitting needle, Rose Publishing Co. (Ltd.), Toronto, 1891. Public domain in the USA.
• As printed — materials: Not printed — the book names no thread, thread number, hook number or brand for the designs in this section; its printed section title is “Designs for Crocheting in Cotton and Linen”.. Gauge: Not given.
• Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own printed key, not by the look of the abbreviation. The key is headed “Terms used in Crochet” and stands at the head of PART ONE, SECTION I.—Terms and Stitches, BOOK PAGE 9 (image p-010.jpg), running onto book page 10 (image p-011.jpg). It prints ten entries: “Ch—Chain, a straight series of loops, each drawn with the hook through the preceding one.” “St—Stitch or Stitches.” “Sl st—Slip Stitch; put the hook through the work, thread over the hook, draw it through the stitch on the hook.” “S c—Single Crochet; having a stitch on the hook, put the hook through the work, thread over the hook, draw it through the work, thread over, draw it through the two stitches on the hook.” “D c—Double Crochet; having a stitch on the hook, put thread over the hook, then hook through the work, thread over, draw it through two stitches, thread over, draw it through the two remaining.” “Tr—Treble Crochet; like double, except that the thread is thrown twice round the hook before inserting the hook through the work. The stitches are worked off two at a time as in double crochet.” “H tr—Half Treble, sometimes called Short Treble crochet; like double crochet, except that when the three stitches are on the needle, instead of drawing thread through two stitches twice, it is drawn through all three at once.” “L tr—Long Treble; throw thread over needle three times before inserting hook in the work, work off two stitches at a time as in double crochet.” “P—Picot; make three, four, five, or as many chain stitches as you wish to have in the picot, and form them into a loop by making a single crochet or slip stitch on the first of them.” “Sh—Shell; this is usually made by putting two doubles, two chains, and two doubles in one stitch; or by putting three or more doubles in one stitch without chain stitches between.” “*—Star; this is used where certain stitches are to be repeated.” The heights are therefore MODERN US: the S c works off two loops (US single, not the British double); the D c works off three loops two at a time (US double); the Tr throws the thread twice (US treble); the L tr throws it three times (US double treble, written dtr here). The H tr is the decisive entry — it is defined as HALF OF THE DOUBLE, not of the treble, so despite its British-sounding name it is the modern US half double crochet, and its wording confirms that this book's D c really is the modern double. This book is therefore a hybrid: US heights under two British-flavoured names.
• Modernisation note: The book's wording is written in modern US form: “make a chain of N stitches” = ch N; “miss” and “pass over” = sk; “catch” and “fasten” = sl st or join, according to what the row is doing; “throw the thread over” = yo; “needle” and “hook” both mean the hook and are written hook; “under” a chain = into the chain space; “the 4th st. of ch.” = the 4th chain; “repeat from *” = rep from *. The book's numbered paragraphs (“1.”, “2.”, “3.”) are its rows and are written Row 1, Row 2, Row 3. The book's spelling “scallop” is kept.
• Modernisation note: The printed directions are already numbered row by row in this section, and are transcribed one row per line in the book's own order. The book's own sub-headings (Heading, For the edge, On the upper edge and so on) are kept as section headings. Stitch order and counts are unchanged and nothing is added; where the book stops without a stitch count, so does this transcription.
• Modernisation note: This is a microform scan and the optical reading of it carries the usual slips; every figure below was read back against the page image at 220 dpi. Recurring slips in this book's scanned text are “d. o” and “d. ¢” for d. c., “s. o” and “a. c.” for s. c., “at.” and “ata.” for st. and sts., “Ist” for 1st, “lst” for 1st, “1” and “l” for the figure 1, and “Bhell” for Shell. The rows below follow what the printed page actually shows, and any place where the scan and the page disagree is listed as a Check note.
• Modernisation note: No materials are printed for this design. This section of the book prints no thread brand, no thread number and no hook number for any of its designs — the only material guidance is the section's own printed title, “Designs for Crocheting in Cotton and Linen” (book page 23), which is recorded here as the book's own range rather than as this design's specification. Nothing is invented to fill the gap.
• Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design; the book prints no gauge, tension or mesh count anywhere in this section. Work a sample and change hook size until the lace lies flat.
• Modernisation note: No finished measurement is printed for this design. It is worked to the length of the piece it trims, so its length is set by that piece. The book's own word for its width is the one in the design's printed name — the designs called “Narrow” are narrow edgings.
• Modernisation note: Check: no colour is printed for this design. The engravings photograph as a plain light thread. The section's printed title names cotton and linen as its materials but names no colour; white and écru are recorded here as the ordinary choices for such thread, not as this design's printed colour.
• Modernisation note: No yardage is printed for this design, and none is estimated here — the book gives no thread size to estimate from.
• Modernisation note: “Shell” is the book's own key term (Sh, book page 10): “two doubles, two chains, and two doubles in one stitch; or three or more doubles in one stitch without chain stitches between.” Each design in this section also states its own shell in its first row — this design's is transcribed exactly as that first row prints it — and “shell on shell” or “shell in shell” means work the whole group into the shell of the row below. Nothing is standardised across designs here; the book's local wording is kept.
• Modernisation note: This design's shell is the group stated in its own first row — 3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc — and “shell on shell” and “shell in shell” mean that group worked into the shell below.
• Modernisation note: The guipure stitch is the book's own, and it is defined only once, inside Row 1, where the directions break off to describe it before going on. That arrangement is kept: Row 1 below carries the definition exactly where the book prints it, and nothing is moved into a separate key.
• Modernisation note: The leaf is likewise defined inside Row 3, where five doubles are worked with their top loops held on the hook and then drawn off together. The book says “all the leaves are made in the same manner” and every later row relies on that one description; it is left where it stands.
• Modernisation note: This design runs across two page turns (book pages 86, 87 and 88; images p-081.jpg, p-082.jpg and p-083.jpg). All three leaves are present and were read: the name, the foundation and the opening of Row 1 with the guipure definition are on page 86, the close of Row 1 with Rows 2 to 4 on page 87, and Rows 5 to 15 with the closing note on page 88.
• Modernisation note: Book page 87 sets Row 3 in two columns round the engraving and the optical reading interleaves them, losing the opening of the right-hand column altogether; Row 3 above follows the printed reading order of the page image.
• Modernisation note: Check: Row 2 prints “1 d. c. in same d. c. that the last of _ d. c. was on”, where the figure between “of” and “d. c.” has almost entirely failed to ink on this copy — only a short top stroke survives at sixteen times the filmed size. It is read as 5 from the design's own parallel wording in Row 10, “1 d. c. on same d. c. that last of 5 d. c. is on”, and from the five doubles the same row has just worked. Nothing else is supplied.
• Modernisation note: Check: a reader's pen stroke crosses the punctuation in Row 2 between “1 guipure st.” and “1 d. c. in each of 1st 5 of 13 d. c.”, and the scan reads the stroke as a character. The page image shows the ink lies over a semicolon, and the mark is later ink, not type.
• Modernisation note: Check: the scan reads the foundation as “Maks a cain of 42 stitches,” and the start of the guipure definition as “1 guipure st. vaus :”; the page image reads “Make a chain of 42 stitches.” and “1 guipure st. thus :”.
• Modernisation note: Check: the scan drops the end of Row 1's definition into a line of dashes, reading “* ee make a very tight sli; st. before beginning a guipure / and after making a knot”; the page image reads “ed ; always make a very tight slip st. before beginning a guipure st. and after making a knot”.
• Modernisation note: Check: the scan reads Row 14's number as “i4.” and Row 14 itself as “3 dc. all in picot of 5 ch.”; the page image reads “14.” and “3 d. c. all in picot of 5 ch. of scallop”.
• Modernisation note: Check: Row 12 ends without a turn and Row 13 opens with a star that is closed by “repeat from * 9 times”; both are exactly as the book prints them and nothing is added.
• Modernisation note: The book's closing paragraph about drawing the knots tight is its own and is kept as its own section.
• Modernisation note: The engraving printed with this design survives the filming well and shows the leaved ground above and the scalloped picot edge below, but it is a photograph of the finished lace and nothing is read from it.