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Laundry Bag Crocheted Banding (1916): vintage crochet pattern

A banding in heavy ecru crochet twist worked on a chain of 40: a border of paired double crochet down each side with a fan of double crochet growing over a treble in the centre, the middle rows deepening and then returning to the first row.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

The Laundry Bag, book page 68, where the banding directions are printed
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Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelIntermediate
Yarn weightLace (#0)
Yardagethe book gives only the thread number. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook1.9 mm
GaugeNo gauge printed.
Finished sizeNot printed for the lace itself. The bag it trims is printed as 15 inches wide and 36 inches long, finished (about 38 by 91 cm).
Timeabout 2 hours

Materials

  • Size 5 cotton crochet thread — approximate; the original was Clark's O. N. T. Crochet Twist, Ecru No. 5
  • Steel crochet hook
  • Tapestry needle for the ends
  • Medium-weight ecru linen for the bag, hemstitched with a hem about an inch wide
  • Hook: Start with about 1.9 mm (US steel 4) — approximate and ours, not printed. Change size until the work lies flat.
Smart Yarn Matcher

Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
single crochet
double crochet
treble crochet
stitch
stitches
repeat
skip
space
row
loop

Notes before you start

  • Source: "The Laundry Bag", Clark's O. N. T. Book of Needlework, The Clark Thread Company, Newark, New Jersey, 1916. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: Clark's O. N. T. Crochet Twist, Ecru No. 5; Milward's Crochet Needle No. 4. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own key, read for this book and not assumed from the brand or the year. The abbreviation list is printed on book page 41 under “Abbreviations Used in Crocheting” — “st = stitch; ch = chain stitch; sl st = slip stitch; sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; tr c = treble crochet; p = picot; d = dot; w st = wound stitch; m = meshes”, with a star that “Means to repeat directions printed between them as many times as stated in each case.” The stitches are then defined in words on book page 42: Single Crochet — “Insert the hook in the foundation chain and draw thread through, catch thread around hook and draw through both loops on hook”, the modern US single crochet; Double Crochet — “Catch thread around hook, insert in chain, draw thread through; catch thread around hook, draw through two loops, thread around hook and draw through last two loops. Always start a d c row with 3 ch in place of the first dc”, the modern US DOUBLE crochet; Treble Crochet — “The treble crochet is made similarly to the double crochet. Start with 4 ch and take thread twice over needle, drawing three times through two”, the modern US treble. So this 1916 book uses modern US heights and no re-lettering is needed: its dc is written dc and its tr c is written tr. This matters because the same firm's 1923 Book No. 19 does the opposite, printing “D c” for a modern half double and “Tr” for a modern double; the two books were checked separately and do not agree.
  • Modernisation note: The book's wording is written in modern US form: “needle” and “hook” both mean the hook and are written hook; “thread over needle” = yo; “skip” = sk; “catch”/“fasten” at the end of a circuit = sl st or join, according to what the row is doing; the book's star ★ is written * and “repeat from ★” = rep from *; tr c = tr; sh st = shell stitch. The OCR of this scan prints the ordinal “1st” as “Ist” and the letters c/e interchangeably in places (“de” for “dc”, “se” for “sc”); those quirks are kept in the excerpts and not in the rows.
  • Modernisation note: The printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts are unchanged. Section headings added for navigation. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2nd row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, and the book's word “row” is kept even where the work goes around, as the book itself does.
  • Modernisation note: Clark's O. N. T. crochet cotton numbers are read as roughly equal to the modern crochet thread sizes of the same number — approximate only. The book's own Table of Cotton and Hook Sizes on book page 41 pairs Clark's O. N. T. Crochet Cotton Nos. 1, 3, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80 and 100 with Milward's Crochet Hooks Nos. 1 to 14 in that order, and that table is what ties each design's printed hook number to its printed thread.
  • Modernisation note: The Milward's hook numbers printed here are 1916 maker's numbers and do not map onto the modern US steel scale, so any metric hook suggested below is ours, read across from the thread size and not printed in the book; the printed hook number is kept in the original materials. The book's own advice on page 41 is to test first: “it is wise to do a little experimenting with the cotton and needle in the sizes suggested in the directions in order to determine that the needle really is the correct size for each individual worker.”
  • Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design. The book prints a stitch count per inch for its two filet yokes only, and those are the squared-diagram designs that are not transcribed here. Work a sample and change hook size until the work lies flat and matches the photograph.
  • Modernisation note: No yardage is printed for this design. The book gives ball counts only for the baby jacket and cap, and no yardage anywhere, so none is estimated here.
  • Modernisation note: Check: no colour is printed for this design. It photographs as a plain light thread, and the book's own O. N. T. Articles pages list Clark's O. N. T. crochet cottons in white and in colours.
  • Modernisation note: The bag's measurements are the book's own — 15 inches wide and 36 inches long, finished, with a hemstitched hem about an inch wide. The metric conversions are ours; the printed figures are kept.
  • Modernisation note: The book prints the thread as available in ecru, linen and Arabian as well as white, and suggests matching the colour to the furnishings of the room. Ecru is recorded here because that is the colour printed for the bag illustrated.
  • Modernisation note: Check: Rows 2 and 3 use the word “border” as shorthand for the run of paired double crochet worked at each side in Row 1 — “then repeat the border as described before and continue it on both sides. The directions are mentioned further from 1 to the last dc of border.” That shorthand is printed and is kept; the border itself is spelled out in Row 1.
  • Modernisation note: Check: Row 5 is printed only as “The same as the 1st row, only worked according to pattern”. The book gives no further gloss on what changes, so the line is transcribed as printed rather than reconstructed.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the book prints no width for the banding and no repeat length, only “until the desired length is obtained”.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 7 done (0%)

Banding

0 of 7 done
  1. Start with a ch of 40.
    Mark row complete
  2. Row 1: Turn the work. Sk 9 ch, counting back, and make 1 dc in the 10th ch. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same loop as the one made before. Sk 1 ch, 1 dc in the 2nd ch. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same ch. Sk 1 ch. Ch 1, 1 dc in the 2nd ch. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same loop. Ch 4, sk 3 ch, 1 dc in the 4th ch. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same loop. Ch 5, sk 4, 1 tr in the 5th ch. Ch 5, sk 4, 1 dc in the 5th ch. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same loop. Ch 4, sk 3, 1 dc in the 4th ch. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same. Ch 1, sk 1 ch, 1 dc in the 2nd ch. Sk 1, 1 dc in the same loop. Ch 2, 1 dc in the last loop of the row. Ch 5 and turn.
    Mark row complete
  3. Row 2: 1 dc over the next ch-2 between the 2 dc of the previous row. Ch 2, 1 dc over the same ch. 1 dc over the next ch-2. Ch 2, 1 dc over the same ch. Ch 4, 1 dc in the centre of the next 4 dc of the previous row. Ch 2, 1 dc over the same space. Ch 4, 3 dc in the last 3 ch of the first ch-5 of the previous row, 1 dc in the top of the tr, 3 dc over the next 3 ch. Ch 4, 1 dc in the centre of the next ch-4. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same space. Ch 4, then repeat the border as described before and continue it on both sides.
    Mark row complete
  4. Row 3: Border, ch 2, 1 dc, 1 ch and 1 dc over the centre of the next ch-4. Ch 4, 3 dc in the last 3 ch, next ch of the ch-4, 7 dc in the next 7 dc and 3 dc in the next 3 ch. Ch 4, 1 dc in the centre of the next ch-4. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same space, ch 2, border.
    Mark row complete
  5. Row 4: The same as Row 2.
    Mark row complete
  6. Row 5: The same as Row 1, only worked according to the pattern.
    Mark row complete
  7. Commence from Row 2 again, and continue the rows thus until the desired length is obtained.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Start with a ch of 40.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Laundry Bag Crocheted Banding (1916) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Finishing

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See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage edgings and trims collection: narrow crochet lace strips on folded linen

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the The Laundry Bag pattern from?

It was published as "The Laundry Bag" in Clark's O. N. T. Book of Needlework by The Clark Thread Company, Newark, New Jersey in 1916. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the The Laundry Bag?

Size 5 crochet cotton (approximate). Not printed — the book gives only the thread number.

What hook should I use?

Start with about 1.9 mm (US steel 4) — approximate and ours, not printed. Change size until the work lies flat. Gauge: No gauge printed.

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