Free preview · full pattern in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims

Crocheted Ring Edging (1891): vintage crochet pattern

A ring-and-scallop edging: a chain-18 ring is covered with thirty-six single crochet, ribbed back and set with twelve picots, then two chain-10 loops are thrown across it and worked into a picoted scallop. Headed with a chain row, two single crochet rows, a row of six-treble clusters and two more rows.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Crocheted Ring Edging, No. 26, begins in the right-hand column of book page 32
Écru · WhiteSave to Pinterest
Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelAdvanced
Yarn weightLace (#0)
YardageNot printed. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook5 mm
GaugeNo gauge printed.
Finished sizeNot printed.
Timeabout 5 hours

Materials

  • Crochet cotton — the book prints no size; the section's own general remarks name white, unbleached and écru crochet cotton and linen thread
  • Steel crochet hook to suit the thread
  • Tapestry needle for the ends
  • Hook: Check: the book prints no hook number for any design in this section, so no modern hook can be read across from a printed size. Match the hook to whatever thread you choose, and change size until the edging lies flat.
Smart Yarn Matcher

Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

Compare all yarns →

This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
slip stitch
single crochet
treble crochet
stitch
stitches
repeat
skip
space
back loop only
cluster
row

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Crocheted Ring Edging" (No. 26), The Art of Crocheting, The Butterick Publishing Co. (Limited), London and New York, 1891. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: Not printed — the book names no thread, thread number, hook number or brand for the designs in this section.. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own printed definitions (the STITCHES section, book pages 6, 7 and 8, images p-010.jpg and p-011.jpg), not by the look of the abbreviation. Despite the 1891 date this book uses MODERN US names throughout. Its “Single Crochet” (No. 8, page 6) is: “Draw a loop through a stitch of the foundation; throw the thread over the hook and draw through both loops on the hook at once.” That is the modern US single crochet. Its “Double Crochet” (No. 6, page 6) is: “Throw the thread over the hook and take up a loop through a stitch of the foundation; throw the thread over again and draw through two of the three loops now on the hook; throw the thread over once more, and draw through the two remaining loops.” That is the modern US double crochet, not a single. Its “Half-Double Crochet” (page 7) is: “Throw the thread over the hook and take up a stitch of the foundation or work; throw the thread over again, and draw through all three loops on the hook together.” That is the modern US half double. Its “Treble Crochet” (page 7) is: “made the same as double crochet, except that the thread is thrown around the hook twice before the foundation stitch is taken up; and in working off, the thread is thrown over the hook three times, being drawn through two stitches each time as before.” That is the modern US treble. Its “Slip Stitch” (No. 5, page 6) is: “After a foundation is made insert the hook in each stitch and draw the thread through it and loop on the hook together.” So this book's s. c., d. c., h. d. c. and tr. c. are written sc, dc, hdc and tr here with no shift of height — a genuine finding checked against the printed definitions rather than assumed from the date, and the opposite of what the 1913/1915/1916 Priscilla books do.
  • Modernisation note: The book repeats the key as an abbreviation table at the head of the section these designs come from, “ABBREVIATIONS USED IN CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS”, book page 16 (image p-020.jpg): “l. — Loop. ch. st. — Chain stitch. s. c. — Single crochet. d. c. — Double crochet. h. d. c. — Half double crochet. tr. c. — Treble crochet. p. — Picot. sl. st. — Slip stitch.” The book adds that it has “avoided resorting to its use as far as possible, in order that our instructions may be as clear to the beginner as to the adept”, which is why most designs here spell the stitches out in words and only a few use the letters. Both forms are written in modern shorthand in the rows below.
  • Modernisation note: The book's wording is written in modern US form: “make” a chain = ch; “catch” = sl st or join, according to what the row is doing; “throw the thread over the hook” = yo; “pick up a loop” = pull up a loop; “skip” = sk; “needle” and “hook” both mean the hook and are written hook; “underneath” means the previous row and is kept; “repeat from *” = rep from *. Ordinal row names (“First row.”, “Second row.”, “Third row.”) are written Row 1, Row 2, Row 3. The book's spelling “scollop” is kept in the design names as printed and written scallop in the rows.
  • Modernisation note: The printed directions run as solid paragraphs, most of them without any row numbering at all — the book marks new rows only with the word “turn”. They are split here into one row or step per line at the book's own “turn”, and the book's own sub-headings (For the Heading, For the Lower Edge, To make the Picots, To make the Scollop and so on) are kept as section headings. Stitch order and counts are unchanged and nothing is added.
  • Modernisation note: The scanned text of this 1891 book carries the usual optical-reading slips and every figure below was read back against the page image: the scan's “Toth” is 16th, its “gth” is 4th or 9th according to the sequence, its “roth” is 10th, its “Sth” is 8th, its “§” before a number is the figure 5, its “ting” is ring, its “neat” and “nevt” are next, its “1g ch.” is 14 ch., its “chain of 4g ©” is a chain of 9, and its “t” and “+” standing before a stitch name are the figure 1. The rows below follow what the printed page actually shows.
  • Modernisation note: No materials are printed for this design. The edgings section of this book names no thread, no thread number, no hook number and no brand for any of its designs — it is a technique book, not a thread-maker's pamphlet, and it was sold at “FIFTY CENTS OR TWO SHILLINGS” rather than given away with thread. The only material guidance printed anywhere near these pages is general: book page 21 says “Unbleached or écru crochet cotton makes very” handsome lace, and book page 36 suggests “moderately coarse unbleached crochet cotton or linen” for insertions. Nothing is invented here to fill the gap.
  • Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design; the book prints no gauge, tension or mesh count anywhere. Work a sample and change hook size until the edging lies flat.
  • Modernisation note: No finished measurement is printed for this design. It is worked to the length of the piece it trims, so its length is set by that piece.
  • Modernisation note: Check: no colour is printed for this design. The engravings photograph as a plain light thread. The book's general remarks name white, unbleached and écru crochet cotton and linen thread as the usual choices for its laces; that is recorded here as the book's own range, not as this design's colour.
  • Modernisation note: No yardage is printed for this design, and none is estimated here — the book gives no thread size to estimate from.
  • Modernisation note: Check: this design's picot is not the book's plain picot — it draws through the front threads of one single crochet and the back thread of the next at the same time. The wording above is the book's own, unchanged.
  • Modernisation note: Check: Row 4's cluster is the book's own; it leaves the top loop of five trebles on the hook and closes all six loops together. It is written out in full because the book names no abbreviation for it.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the OCR reads “* ¢ tr. c. in the back part of each of the 5 stitches”; the page image reads “5 tr. c. in the back part of each of the 5 stitches”, which agrees with the six loops closed together (five treble tops plus the working loop).
  • Modernisation note: Row 7's “cross-stitch at the back of the work” is the book's own description of where to insert the hook; it is kept as printed.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 4 done (0%)

The ring

0 of 4 done
  1. Ch 18, join to form a ring and work 36 sc over it.
    Mark row complete
  2. Turn the ring so as to work in the opposite direction; ch 1, then a sc in the back part of every sc just made (blo), joining the last st to the first with a sl st.
    Mark row complete
  3. Turn again, ch 1, then 1 sc in each of the first two sts, ch 4, put the hook through the 2 front threads of the last sc just made and the back thread of the sc next to it, yo and draw through all three threads together; yo and through the 2 now on the hook. This forms the first picot.
    Mark row complete
  4. Work up all the sc in this manner, to form 12 picots in all, joining the last picot to the first sc with a sl st.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Ch 18, join to form a ring and work 36 sc over it.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Crocheted Ring Edging (1891) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • The scallop
  • To make the heading
  • Finishing

Included with 618 patterns for $9 — $0.01 per pattern.

See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage edgings and trims collection: narrow crochet lace strips on folded linen

Errata

No corrections have been published for this pattern. Found a mistake? Tell us and we will log the fix here with a date.

Project log

Your notes on this pattern

Keep track of the yarn, hook and changes you used. Saved in this browser only — nobody else can see it.

Frequently asked questions

Where is the Crocheted Ring Edging pattern from?

It was published as "Crocheted Ring Edging" in The Art of Crocheting by The Butterick Publishing Co. (Limited), London and New York in 1891. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Crocheted Ring Edging?

See the materials list. Not printed.

What hook should I use?

Check: the book prints no hook number for any design in this section, so no modern hook can be read across from a printed size. Match the hook to whatever thread you choose, and change size until the edging lies flat. Gauge: No gauge printed.

You might also like