Free preview · full pattern in the Vintage Crochet Hats, Bags & Accessories

Shetland Floss Tam from the New Ruffle Sweater Set (1920): vintage crochet pattern

A large, flat tam in Shetland floss worked in sc rounds with six increase lines to 14 inches across, worked straight for 4 inches, then drawn in for a 4-inch sc band and topped with a pompom. The matching ruffle sweater is knitted and not included.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

New Ruffle Sweater and Tam as photographed in the book (the sweater is knitted)
Original colourwaySave to Pinterest
Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelBeginner
Yarn weightFine (#2)
Yardagethe book gives 4 skeins of Lion Brand Shetland Floss; skein weight and yardage are not stated. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook3.5 mm
GaugeNo stitch gauge printed. Printed checks: top 14 in (35.5 cm) across; band 4 in (10 cm).
Finished sizeTop 14 in (35.5 cm) across; 4 in (10 cm) straight; band 4 in (10 cm) wide, or the width required. Head size not printed.
Timeabout 3 hours

Materials

  • Fine (CYC #2) wool yarn — the original was Lion Brand Shetland Floss, 4 skeins
  • Crochet hook (original: No. 4)
  • Yarn for a pompom
  • Tapestry needle
  • Hook: Start with 3.5 mm (US E-4) — approximate; change size so the flat top reaches 14 in (35.5 cm) across as printed (no stitch gauge is printed)
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Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #2 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Lion Brand Coboo · 50% Cotton, 50% Bamboo

232 yds per skein · Silky breathable drape, lovely stitch shine

2 skeins required

approx. $$12.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
single crochet
skip
stitch
stitches
repeat
round
increase

Notes before you start

  • Source: "The New Ruffle Sweater and Tam — Tam", Lion Yarn Book: Describing Latest Creations in Worsted Work, The Lion Yarn Co., 1920. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: 4 Skeins LION BRAND SHETLAND Floss; 1 Crochet Hook, No. 4.. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: The book prints no crochet lesson and no definitions of its basic stitches; it defines only star stitch (with the Auto Scarf) and a picot edge (with the Filet and Knitted Sweater). Its s. c. and d. c. are read as American terms, which are the same as modern US sc and dc, for this reason: the filet designs build open meshes out of d. c. worked on a chain ("Ch. 94 sts. and work 92 d. c. on ch.", then "46M"). Only a tall stitch (modern US dc) forms filet meshes; a British-style "double crochet" (= US sc) could not. The book is an American (New York) publication. So no stitch changes height; s. c. = sc, d. c. = dc, ch. = ch, slip st. = sl st.
  • Modernisation note: Period abbreviations and wording modernised: s. c., d. c., ch., st./sts. written as sc, dc, ch, st/sts; M and B written as mesh and block; "skip" as sk; "yarn over" as yo; "fasten wool on" and "fasten yarn at" as join yarn; "fasten back in" as sl st in; "break off" as fasten off; "crochet needle" as hook; "repeat from star" as rep from *; "sts." after a chain count dropped ("Ch. 94 sts." written as "Ch 94"); ordinal row names ("Second Row") written as Row 2 (or Rnd 2 when worked in the round).
  • Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation.
  • Modernisation note: Hook numbers (No. 1–5, bone or amber) are 1920 makers' numbers; the book prints no diameters, so no exact metric size can be read from it. The suggested modern hook is an approximate starting point for the yarn weight, to be adjusted to the printed measurements.
  • Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed anywhere in the book; work a swatch and match the printed measurements (given in the modern gauge line) before starting.
  • Modernisation note: Lion Brand yarns of 1920 have no exact modern equivalent. The modern CYC weights are approximations only: Lion Brand Shetland Floss (a soft, lofty yarn) as fine (CYC #2); Lion Brand Knitting Yarn / Knitting Worsted as medium (CYC #4) — the book's own advertisement page lists Lion knitting worsted in "4 oz. hanks"; 3-fold (3-ply) Saxony as super fine (CYC #1); Pompadour Wool as fine (CYC #2); Lion Brand Crochet Wool (used doubled in the sacque) as fine (CYC #2), so the doubled strand works roughly as light (CYC #3). Yardage is never printed — the book gives skeins, hanks or balls only.
  • Modernisation note: Only the tam of this set is transcribed: the Ruffle Sweater (and its popcorn stitch) is knitted.
  • Modernisation note: "Mitres" (the book's word for the increase points) written as incs.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the band round "1 s. c. and skip 1 s. c. and 1 s. c. in next st." is transcribed as printed; it removes about one stitch in three.
  • Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 6 done (0%)

Top

0 of 6 done
  1. Rnd 1: Ch 3, turn, sk 1 ch, 6 sc in next ch.
    Mark row complete
  2. Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st.
    Mark row complete
  3. Rnd 3: *Sc in sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from *, having 6 incs ("mitres") of 2 sc with 1 sc between each in the round.
    Mark row complete
  4. Rnd 4: *Sc in each of 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to end of round.
    Mark row complete
  5. Rep Rnd 4, having 1 more sc between each of the 6 incs of 2 sc in each round, until the top is 14 in (35.5 cm) across.
    Mark row complete
  6. Then work 4 in (10 cm) with 1 sc in each st. This finishes the top.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Rnd 1: Ch 3, turn, sk 1 ch, 6 sc in next ch.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Shetland Floss Tam from the New Ruffle Sweater Set (1920) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Hats, Bags & Accessories

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Band
  • Finishing

Included with 202 patterns for $12 — $0.06 per pattern.

See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage hats and accessories collection: a crochet hat, purse and slippers

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the The New Ruffle Sweater and Tam — Tam pattern from?

It was published as "The New Ruffle Sweater and Tam — Tam" in Lion Yarn Book: Describing Latest Creations in Worsted Work by The Lion Yarn Co. in 1920. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the The New Ruffle Sweater and Tam — Tam?

fine (#2) yarn. Not printed — the book gives 4 skeins of Lion Brand Shetland Floss; skein weight and yardage are not stated.

What hook should I use?

Start with 3.5 mm (US E-4) — approximate; change size so the flat top reaches 14 in (35.5 cm) across as printed (no stitch gauge is printed) Gauge: No stitch gauge printed. Printed checks: top 14 in (35.5 cm) across; band 4 in (10 cm).

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