Ladies’ Crocheted Poke Bonnet Hat No. 100 (1919): vintage crochet pattern

Materials

• Fine (CYC #2) yarn — the original was Utopia Cymar Yarn, 1 ball each of Robins Egg (blue) and Shadow Lawn Green
• Light (CYC #3) yarn — the original was Utopia Llama Wool, ¼ skein of Golden Brown, for the last brim rows
• Small amounts of Yellow and Dark Green wool for the daisies and leaves, and Dark Brown for French knots
• Crochet hook (original: No. 5)
• Poke bonnet buckram hat frame
• Tapestry needle
• Hook: Start with 4.5 mm (US 7) and change size so the crocheted crown and brim fit your buckram frame (no gauge is printed)

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch

chain

sc

single crochet

hdc

half double crochet

dc

double crochet

sl st

slip stitch

sk

skip

st

stitch

sts

stitches

rep

repeat

row

row

inc

increase

lp

loop

BLO

back loop only

Notes before you start

• Source: "Ladies’ Utopia Crocheted Hat No. 100" (No. 100), Utopia Yarn Book: Being a Practical Treatise on Knitting and Crocheting (Fourteenth Edition), Henry E. Frankenberg Co., New York, 1919. Public domain in the USA.
• As printed — materials: 1 ball Robins Egg Utopia Cymar Yarn. 1 ball Shadow Lawn Green Utopia Cymar Yarn. ¼ skein Golden Brown Utopia Llama Wool. For Daisies take Yellow Wool. For Leaves take Dark Green. 1 Crochet Hook, No. 5. Poke Bonnet Buckram Frame.. Gauge: Not given.
• Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own definitions ("Explanation of Terms Used in Crocheting"), not by name: s. c. ("insert hook in ch. or st., draw the wool through, over, and draw through both loops on hook") = modern US sc; h. d. c. (over, insert, draw a loop through, over, draw through the three loops) = hdc; d. c. (over, insert, draw a loop through, over and through two loops twice) = dc; t. c. / treble crochet ("over twice", then through two loops three times) = tr; sl. st. (insert, over, draw through st and loop on hook) = sl st; ch. = ch; "over" = yo. For these stitches the 1919 American names already match modern US usage, so no stitch changes height.
• Modernisation note: Period abbreviations and wording modernised: s. c., h. d. c., d. c., t. c., sl. st., ch. written as sc, hdc, dc, tr, sl st, ch; "m." written as mesh; "st. of ch." written as "ch" where the stitch is a chain; "wool"/"thread" written as yarn; "needle" (used for the crochet hook) written as hook; "break off yarn" written as "fasten off"; "repeat" written as "rep"; ordinal row names ("Second Row", "Twenty-first Row") written as Row 2, Row 21.
• Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation where the text runs on.
• Modernisation note: Hook numbers (bone, ivory, amber/celluloid No. 1–5) refer to the book's own illustrated scale of 1919 hooks, which pictures the hooks but prints no diameters, so no exact metric size can be read from the book. The suggested modern hook is a starting point chosen for the yarn weight.
• Modernisation note: Utopia yarns are 1919 trade names with no exact modern equivalent. The modern CYC weight given is an approximation only: Utopia Shetland Floss was a soft, fine, lofty 2-ply wool (treated here as fine, CYC #2); Utopia Alpaca and Llama wools, and the Worsted and Silk Mixture, as light (CYC #3); Utopia Germantown (zephyr) as light (CYC #3) and 8 Fold Germantown as medium (CYC #4); Scotch Knitting Yarn/Worsted as medium (CYC #4); 3 Fold Saxony as super fine (CYC #1). Yardage is never printed — the book gives skeins, balls or hanks only, and their weight is not stated.
• Modernisation note: Repeats are kept as printed ("repeat from * 3 more times" means 4 repeats in all).
• Modernisation note: Utopia Cymar Yarn is not described in the book; it is treated here as a fine (CYC #2) yarn, an approximation only.
• Modernisation note: The printed groups of rows ("Three rows increase…", "Four rows…", "Eighteen rows plain s. c.") are numbered as Rows 2–39; the counts are as printed.
• Modernisation note: "Every fourth row take back thread to form ridge" written as "work every 4th row in the back loop only".
• Modernisation note: "Raise 1 st." (pull up a loop) and "needle" (hook) modernised; the brim stitch is the stitch now usually called star stitch, which the book itself calls a "star".
• Modernisation note: The cord is a twisted cord, not crochet; kept as printed.
• Modernisation note: The book prints no finishing instructions for mounting the hat on the frame; the finishing line refers to the illustration only.
• Modernisation note: Check: the book does not say whether Robins Egg and Shadow Lawn Green are held together (the matching Shawl Sweater No. 806 is knitted "with two threads, blue and green") or used separately. Left as printed.
• Modernisation note: Check: the number of daisies is not printed.
• Modernisation note: Check: "skip 9 s. c. in back for 3 rows" on the under-brim is not explained further. Left as printed.
• Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.