Filet Crochet Sweater No. 843 (1919): vintage crochet pattern

Materials

• Fine (CYC #2) wool yarn — the original was Utopia Shetland Floss, 9 skeins, in one color (color not named)
• Crochet hooks in two sizes (original: No. 4 for the body, No. 1 for the belt band)
• Tapestry needle
• Hook: Start with 3.5 mm (US E-4) for the body and 2.75 mm (US C-2) for the belt band; change size so the sleeve measures 12 in (30.5 cm) as printed (no gauge is printed)

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch

chain

sc

single crochet

dc

double crochet

sl st

slip stitch

sk

skip

st

stitch

sts

stitches

rep

repeat

row

row

inc

increase

Notes before you start

• Source: "Utopia Filet Crochet Sweater No. 843" (No. 843), Utopia Yarn Book: Being a Practical Treatise on Knitting and Crocheting (Fourteenth Edition), Henry E. Frankenberg Co., New York, 1919. Public domain in the USA.
• As printed — materials: 9 skeins colored Utopia Shetland Floss.; 1 crochet hook No. 4, 1 crochet hook No. 1. Gauge: Not given.
• Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own definitions ("Explanation of Terms Used in Crocheting"), not by name: s. c. ("insert hook in ch. or st., draw the wool through, over, and draw through both loops on hook") = modern US sc; h. d. c. (over, insert, draw a loop through, over, draw through the three loops) = hdc; d. c. (over, insert, draw a loop through, over and through two loops twice) = dc; t. c. / treble crochet ("over twice", then through two loops three times) = tr; sl. st. (insert, over, draw through st and loop on hook) = sl st; ch. = ch; "over" = yo. For these stitches the 1919 American names already match modern US usage, so no stitch changes height.
• Modernisation note: The book's abbreviation "M." is defined as "Mesh; Ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on d. c." and is written as "mesh" (ch 2, sk 2, dc in next dc); where a design says its meshes have 1 ch between, that is stated in the row. "Space" and "block" are kept as printed. Dc counts printed between meshes (e.g. "7 d. c.") are kept exactly as printed.
• Modernisation note: Period abbreviations and wording modernised: s. c., h. d. c., d. c., t. c., sl. st., ch. written as sc, hdc, dc, tr, sl st, ch; "m." written as mesh; "st. of ch." written as "ch" where the stitch is a chain; "wool"/"thread" written as yarn; "needle" (used for the crochet hook) written as hook; "break off yarn" written as "fasten off"; "repeat" written as "rep"; ordinal row names ("Second Row", "Twenty-first Row") written as Row 2, Row 21.
• Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation where the text runs on.
• Modernisation note: Hook numbers (bone, ivory, amber/celluloid No. 1–5) refer to the book's own illustrated scale of 1919 hooks, which pictures the hooks but prints no diameters, so no exact metric size can be read from the book. The suggested modern hook is a starting point chosen for the yarn weight.
• Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed anywhere in the book; work a swatch and match any printed measurements (in the modern gauge line) before starting.
• Modernisation note: Utopia yarns are 1919 trade names with no exact modern equivalent. The modern CYC weight given is an approximation only: Utopia Shetland Floss was a soft, fine, lofty 2-ply wool (treated here as fine, CYC #2); Utopia Alpaca and Llama wools, and the Worsted and Silk Mixture, as light (CYC #3); Utopia Germantown (zephyr) as light (CYC #3) and 8 Fold Germantown as medium (CYC #4); Scotch Knitting Yarn/Worsted as medium (CYC #4); 3 Fold Saxony as super fine (CYC #1). Yardage is never printed — the book gives skeins, balls or hanks only, and their weight is not stated.
• Modernisation note: Size is given only as a 1919 bust size; vintage sizing and ease differ from today's — compare the printed lengths with a garment that fits before starting.
• Modernisation note: "Fine needle" (for the front belt) written as "the fine hook" — the No. 1 hook named for the back belt.
• Modernisation note: Sleeve rows 13–17 labelled "Sleeve Row" so they are not confused with the body rows; the book counts them "from shoulder".
• Modernisation note: Check: 108 chains are printed as giving 39 spaces; at 3 chains per space this does not reconcile exactly. Left as printed.
• Modernisation note: Check: the front is to end with "19 rows of spaces, then border same as back", but on the back the block-and-space border is worked first, at the lower edge, and the side borders run the full length. Left as printed; match the front to the back at the side seams.
• Modernisation note: Check: cuff Row 3 prints "1 block of 4 d. c., in space of 2 ch., seven of each; work 5 rows" — it is not stated whether the 5 rows include this row. Left as printed.
• Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.