Woman’s Nightingale Bed Jacket (1915): vintage crochet pattern

Materials

• Fine (CYC #2) lofty wool yarn — the original was Sunlight Shetland Floss: 10 skeins White and 3 skeins colored (Blue in the directions)
• Crochet hook (original: amber No. 4)
• 4 yd (3.7 m) ribbon 1½ in (38 mm) wide
• Tapestry needle
• Hook: Start with 4 mm (US G-6) — approximate; no gauge or finished size is printed

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch

chain

sc

single crochet

dc

double crochet

st

stitch

sts

stitches

sp

space

rep

repeat

row

row

sh

shell

Notes before you start

• Source: "Woman’s Nightingale", The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting, W. G. Perry, Chicago, 1915. Public domain in the USA.
• As printed — materials: SUNLIGHT Shetland Floss; 10 skeins white; 3 skeins colored; 1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 4; 4 yards Ribbon, 1½ inches wide. Gauge: Not given.
• Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own definitions (“First Stitches — Crocheting”), not by name: chain stitch (“make a chain of loops, pulling out 1 loop through the other”) = ch; slip stitch (“place the hook in a loop on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle at once”) = sl st; single crochet (“take up 1 loop on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle at once”) = sc; double crochet (“put yarn around hook, take up 1 loop on the chain, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops at a time”) = dc; long crochet (yarn over, pick up a loop, yarn over and pull through 1 loop, then through 2 loops twice) = modern extended double crochet, not used in these designs; treble crochet (“put yarn around hook twice”, pick up a loop, then pull through 2 loops three times) = tr. For these stitches the 1915 American names already match modern US usage, so no stitch changes height.
• Modernisation note: The book prints no abbreviations (“No abbreviations are used in this book”); its words are written as modern US abbreviations: chain = ch, slip stitch = sl st, single crochet = sc, double crochet = dc, treble crochet = tr, stitch(es) = st(s), skip = sk, space = sp, loop = lp, yarn over hook = yo, repeat = rep. “Needle” (used for the crochet hook) is written as hook; “take up / pick up 1 loop” as “draw up a lp”; “break off the yarn” as “fasten off”; “fasten the yarn” as “join yarn”; ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2nd row”) as Row 1, Row 2.
• Modernisation note: “Taking up in the double stitch” (the book's phrase for inserting the hook under both top loops of the stitch below) is written as “through both loops”; “taking up in the back of the stitches” is written as “in back loop only (blo)”. “Plain” (a row with no increases, or 1 sc in every st) is kept and explained where it first appears.
• Modernisation note: The book's own rule for the asterisk is kept: “A star (*) is often used before and after a group of words to indicate that the work described between the stars must be repeated.” Repeats are written “rep from *” as printed.
• Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation. The book calls rounds “rows” and ridges of 2 rows “ribs”; both words are kept as printed.
• Modernisation note: Hook numbers (bone, amber, celluloid and steel, with steel “Style” numbers) refer to the book's actual-size pictures of 1915 hooks, which print no diameters, so no exact metric size can be read from the book. The suggested modern hook is an approximate starting point chosen for the yarn weight and tied to any printed measurement.
• Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed anywhere in the book; work a swatch and match any printed measurement (given in the modern gauge line) before starting.
• Modernisation note: Sunlight yarns are 1915 trade names with no exact modern equivalent. The CYC weights given are approximations only, based on the book's own descriptions: Saxony (“a fine, soft, three-ply thread”) as super fine (CYC #1); Shetland Floss (“a very lofty, fluffy yarn”) as fine (CYC #2); Four-fold Germantown as light (CYC #3); Eight-fold Germantown (“about twice as heavy” as the four-fold) as medium (CYC #4); Golf Yarn (“a four-ply, lofty yarn”) and German Knitting Worsted/Yarn as medium (CYC #4). Yardage is never printed — the book gives skeins (or balls) only, and their weight and length are not stated.
• Modernisation note: The directions are “Written for white and blue”; the colored yarn is called Blue. A “nightingale” is a period name for a loose bed wrap or bed jacket.
• Modernisation note: The design says “For detail see First Stitches, Crocheting, pages 10–11”.
• Modernisation note: The picot shell is printed with a 6-dc (3 + 3) shell, while the other border shells are 5 dc. Left as printed.
• Modernisation note: Check: “repeat this until you have 6 groups” is read as 6 groups in all, counting the first one. Left as printed.
• Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.