Free preview · full pattern in the Vintage Crochet Hats, Bags & Accessories
Ribbed Bed Socks (1915): vintage crochet pattern
Crocheted bed socks with a leg worked lengthwise in back-loop single crochet ribs alternating pink and white, a single crochet foot worked in the round, a crossed double crochet row for the cord, a pink star-stitch top edge, and a chain cord with pompons.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Intermediate |
| Yarn weight | Light (#3) |
| Yardage | the book gives 2 skeins each of White and colored Four-fold Germantown; skein weight and yardage are not stated. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 3.5 mm |
| Gauge | No stitch gauge printed. |
| Finished size | Size 6 (1915 size); other sizes by working more or fewer ribs. |
| Time | about 5 hours |
Materials
- Light (CYC #3) wool yarn — the original was Sunlight Four-fold Germantown: 2 skeins White and 2 skeins colored (Pink in the directions)
- Crochet hook (original: steel No. 7, Style 15)
- Thin cardboard for the pompons; strong linen thread
- Tapestry needle
- Hook: Start with 3.5 mm (US E-4) — approximate; no gauge or measurement is printed, so fit the foot
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #3 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Caron Simply Soft Light · 100% Premium Acrylic
330 yds per skein · Gentle sheen, ultra soft against skin
2 skeins required
approx. $$11.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- single crochet
- double crochet
- stitch
- stitches
- loop
- yarn over
- decrease
- repeat
- row
- back loop only
Notes before you start
- Source: "Ribbed Bed Socks", The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting, W. G. Perry, Chicago, 1915. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown; 2 skeins white; 2 skeins colored; 1 Steel Crochet Hook, No. 7, Style 15. Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own definitions (“First Stitches — Crocheting”), not by name: chain stitch (“make a chain of loops, pulling out 1 loop through the other”) = ch; slip stitch (“place the hook in a loop on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle at once”) = sl st; single crochet (“take up 1 loop on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle at once”) = sc; double crochet (“put yarn around hook, take up 1 loop on the chain, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops at a time”) = dc; long crochet (yarn over, pick up a loop, yarn over and pull through 1 loop, then through 2 loops twice) = modern extended double crochet, not used in these designs; treble crochet (“put yarn around hook twice”, pick up a loop, then pull through 2 loops three times) = tr. For these stitches the 1915 American names already match modern US usage, so no stitch changes height.
- Modernisation note: The book prints no abbreviations (“No abbreviations are used in this book”); its words are written as modern US abbreviations: chain = ch, slip stitch = sl st, single crochet = sc, double crochet = dc, treble crochet = tr, stitch(es) = st(s), skip = sk, space = sp, loop = lp, yarn over hook = yo, repeat = rep. “Needle” (used for the crochet hook) is written as hook; “take up / pick up 1 loop” as “draw up a lp”; “break off the yarn” as “fasten off”; “fasten the yarn” as “join yarn”; ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2nd row”) as Row 1, Row 2.
- Modernisation note: “Taking up in the double stitch” (the book's phrase for inserting the hook under both top loops of the stitch below) is written as “through both loops”; “taking up in the back of the stitches” is written as “in back loop only (blo)”. “Plain” (a row with no increases, or 1 sc in every st) is kept and explained where it first appears.
- Modernisation note: The book's own rule for the asterisk is kept: “A star (*) is often used before and after a group of words to indicate that the work described between the stars must be repeated.” Repeats are written “rep from *” as printed.
- Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation. The book calls rounds “rows” and ridges of 2 rows “ribs”; both words are kept as printed.
- Modernisation note: Hook numbers (bone, amber, celluloid and steel, with steel “Style” numbers) refer to the book's actual-size pictures of 1915 hooks, which print no diameters, so no exact metric size can be read from the book. The suggested modern hook is an approximate starting point chosen for the yarn weight and tied to any printed measurement.
- Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed anywhere in the book; work a swatch and match any printed measurement (given in the modern gauge line) before starting.
- Modernisation note: Sunlight yarns are 1915 trade names with no exact modern equivalent. The CYC weights given are approximations only, based on the book's own descriptions: Saxony (“a fine, soft, three-ply thread”) as super fine (CYC #1); Shetland Floss (“a very lofty, fluffy yarn”) as fine (CYC #2); Four-fold Germantown as light (CYC #3); Eight-fold Germantown (“about twice as heavy” as the four-fold) as medium (CYC #4); Golf Yarn (“a four-ply, lofty yarn”) and German Knitting Worsted/Yarn as medium (CYC #4). Yardage is never printed — the book gives skeins (or balls) only, and their weight and length are not stated.
- Modernisation note: The directions are “Written for white and pink”. The printed hook is “Style 15”, where every other steel hook in the book is Style 1 or 2; kept as printed.
- Modernisation note: Check: the rib stitch counts after adding the 25 foot ch and 3 toe sts are not given; “Make 6 more ribs (24 stitches in length)” is left as printed.
- Modernisation note: Check: the top edge (Row 3) is a star stitch worked along a chain start; its stitch count is not printed. Left as printed.
- Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
Row progress: 0 of 8 done (0%)
Top (worked lengthwise)
0 of 8 done- Beg at the back with White and ch 25.Mark row complete
- Row 1: Sc; then ch 1 and turn.Mark row complete
- Row 2: Rep the sc, in blo; ch 1 and turn.Mark row complete
- These 2 rows make 1 rib.Mark row complete
- Use Pink for the next rib, then rep with 1 rib in White and 1 rib in Pink until there are 7 ribs.Mark row complete
- For the top of the foot add ch 25 in Pink and make 1 rib. Add 3 more sts for the toe and work the next rib in White.Mark row complete
- Work 7 ribs in all, making the last rib 3 sts shorter at the toe, the same as the 1st rib.Mark row complete
- Make 6 more ribs (24 sts long) for the other side and crochet the sock together with a chain stitch.Mark row complete
Working on:
Beg at the back with White and ch 25.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Ribbed Bed Socks (1915) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Hats, Bags & Accessories
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Foot
- Top Border
- Finishing
Included with 202 patterns for $12 — $0.06 per pattern.

Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Ribbed Bed Socks pattern from?
It was published as "Ribbed Bed Socks" in The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting by W. G. Perry, Chicago in 1915. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Ribbed Bed Socks?
light (#3) yarn. Not printed — the book gives 2 skeins each of White and colored Four-fold Germantown; skein weight and yardage are not stated.
What hook should I use?
Start with 3.5 mm (US E-4) — approximate; no gauge or measurement is printed, so fit the foot Gauge: No stitch gauge printed.







