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Crocheted Hot Water Bottle Cover (1915): vintage crochet pattern

A single crochet cover for a 3-quart hot water bottle, worked in the round from the lower edge with side increases, with a double crochet row for a drawstring, a scalloped top and two chain cords with tassels. Originally published as "Crocheted Hot Water Bottle Cover" in The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting by W. G. Perry.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Crocheted Hot Water Bottle Cover as photographed in the book
Original colourwaySave to Pinterest
Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelBeginner
Yarn weightLight (#3)
Yardagethe book gives 2 skeins of Four-fold Germantown; skein weight and yardage are not stated. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook4.5 mm
GaugeNo stitch gauge printed. Printed check: the cover is 10½ in (26.5 cm) long.
Finished sizeTo cover a 3-quart hot water bottle; 10½ in (26.5 cm) long.
Timeabout 2 hours

Materials

  • Light (CYC #3) wool yarn — the original was Sunlight Four-fold Germantown, 2 skeins
  • Crochet hook (original: amber No. 4)
  • Piece of cardboard 6 in (15 cm) wide for the tassels; linen or strong thread
  • Tapestry needle
  • Hook: Start with 4.5 mm (US 7) — approximate; check the cover against the bottle (length 10½ in / 26.5 cm, as printed)
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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #3 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft Light · 100% Premium Acrylic

330 yds per skein · Gentle sheen, ultra soft against skin

2 skeins required

approx. $$11.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
single crochet
double crochet
stitch
stitches
increase
repeat
row
back loop only

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Crocheted Hot Water Bottle Cover", The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting, W. G. Perry, Chicago, 1915. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown—2 skeins; 1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 4. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own definitions (“First Stitches — Crocheting”), not by name: chain stitch (“make a chain of loops, pulling out 1 loop through the other”) = ch; slip stitch (“place the hook in a loop on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle at once”) = sl st; single crochet (“take up 1 loop on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle at once”) = sc; double crochet (“put yarn around hook, take up 1 loop on the chain, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops at a time”) = dc; long crochet (yarn over, pick up a loop, yarn over and pull through 1 loop, then through 2 loops twice) = modern extended double crochet, not used in these designs; treble crochet (“put yarn around hook twice”, pick up a loop, then pull through 2 loops three times) = tr. For these stitches the 1915 American names already match modern US usage, so no stitch changes height.
  • Modernisation note: The book prints no abbreviations (“No abbreviations are used in this book”); its words are written as modern US abbreviations: chain = ch, slip stitch = sl st, single crochet = sc, double crochet = dc, treble crochet = tr, stitch(es) = st(s), skip = sk, space = sp, loop = lp, yarn over hook = yo, repeat = rep. “Needle” (used for the crochet hook) is written as hook; “take up / pick up 1 loop” as “draw up a lp”; “break off the yarn” as “fasten off”; “fasten the yarn” as “join yarn”; ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2nd row”) as Row 1, Row 2.
  • Modernisation note: “Taking up in the double stitch” (the book's phrase for inserting the hook under both top loops of the stitch below) is written as “through both loops”; “taking up in the back of the stitches” is written as “in back loop only (blo)”. “Plain” (a row with no increases, or 1 sc in every st) is kept and explained where it first appears.
  • Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation. The book calls rounds “rows” and ridges of 2 rows “ribs”; both words are kept as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Hook numbers (bone, amber, celluloid and steel, with steel “Style” numbers) refer to the book's actual-size pictures of 1915 hooks, which print no diameters, so no exact metric size can be read from the book. The suggested modern hook is an approximate starting point chosen for the yarn weight and tied to any printed measurement.
  • Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed anywhere in the book; work a swatch and match any printed measurement (given in the modern gauge line) before starting.
  • Modernisation note: Sunlight yarns are 1915 trade names with no exact modern equivalent. The CYC weights given are approximations only, based on the book's own descriptions: Saxony (“a fine, soft, three-ply thread”) as super fine (CYC #1); Shetland Floss (“a very lofty, fluffy yarn”) as fine (CYC #2); Four-fold Germantown as light (CYC #3); Eight-fold Germantown (“about twice as heavy” as the four-fold) as medium (CYC #4); Golf Yarn (“a four-ply, lofty yarn”) and German Knitting Worsted/Yarn as medium (CYC #4). Yardage is never printed — the book gives skeins (or balls) only, and their weight and length are not stated.
  • Modernisation note: The design says “For detail see Single Crochet, page 10”. Placed in the accessories line as a small household item worked like a bag.
  • Modernisation note: Check: Row 2 “make 3 single crochet in the next stitch on the chain” — the increase is worked into the stitch opposite the first increase (Row 1 sts over the chain). Left as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Check: 58 ch gives 58 sts around, while Row 2 accounts for 1 + 28 + 1 + 28 = 58 sts before the increases. The count reconciles.
  • Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 7 done (0%)

Cover

0 of 7 done
  1. Ch 58 and join into a ring.
    Mark row complete
  2. Row 1: Sc.
    Mark row complete
  3. Row 2: Join Row 1 by making the next sc in the 1st st of Row 1. Make 2 more sc in the same st; this increases 2 sts on one side of the cover. Rep sc, in blo of the previous row. Work 28 sc, then make 3 sc in the next st of the chain; this increases 2 sts on the other side of the cover. Now make 28 sc to finish Row 2.
    Mark row complete
  4. Rep, increasing 2 sts on each side of the cover, for 4 more rows.
    Mark row complete
  5. Now work around without increasing until the cover is 10½ in (26.5 cm) long.
    Mark row complete
  6. Cord row: Work dc, through both loops of the previous row.
    Mark row complete
  7. Scallops: Finish off the top with 1 row: make 1 sc, ch 3 and 4 dc all in 1 st of the previous row and rep the same in every 4th st.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Ch 58 and join into a ring.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Crocheted Hot Water Bottle Cover (1915) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Hats, Bags & Accessories

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Cover artwork for the vintage hats and accessories collection: a crochet hat, purse and slippers

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the Crocheted Hot Water Bottle Cover pattern from?

It was published as "Crocheted Hot Water Bottle Cover" in The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting by W. G. Perry, Chicago in 1915. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Crocheted Hot Water Bottle Cover?

light (#3) yarn. Not printed — the book gives 2 skeins of Four-fold Germantown; skein weight and yardage are not stated.

What hook should I use?

Start with 4.5 mm (US 7) — approximate; check the cover against the bottle (length 10½ in / 26.5 cm, as printed) Gauge: No stitch gauge printed. Printed check: the cover is 10½ in (26.5 cm) long.

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