Woman’s French Slippers with Rose Buds (1915): vintage crochet pattern

Materials

• Light (CYC #3) wool yarn — the original was Sunlight Four-fold Germantown: 1 skein White and 2 skeins colored (Lavender in the directions)
• Embroidery floss or rope silk in 2 pinks and 2 greens (original: BLYDA Rope Silk)
• Crochet hooks in two sizes (original: steel No. 6, Style 2 for the slipper; amber No. 4 for the turnover)
• 1 pair of purchased slipper soles (original: soles No. 5)
• 1 yd (0.9 m) satin ribbon 1½ in (38 mm) wide
• Tapestry needle
• Hook: Start with 3.5 mm (US E-4) for the slipper (worked tight) and 4.5 mm (US 7) for the turnover — approximate; fit the slipper to the sole

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch

chain

sl st

slip stitch

sc

single crochet

st

stitch

sts

stitches

lp

loop

yo

yarn over

rep

repeat

row

row

BLO

back loop only

Notes before you start

• Source: "Woman’s French Slippers", The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting, W. G. Perry, Chicago, 1915. Public domain in the USA.
• As printed — materials: SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown; 1 skein white; 2 skeins colored; 2 shades of pink BLYDA Rope Silk; 2 shades of green BLYDA Rope Silk; 1 Steel Crochet Hook, No. 6, Style 2; 1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 4; 1 Pair of Soles, No. 5; 1 yard Satin Ribbon, 1½ inches wide.. Gauge: Not given.
• Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own definitions (“First Stitches — Crocheting”), not by name: chain stitch (“make a chain of loops, pulling out 1 loop through the other”) = ch; slip stitch (“place the hook in a loop on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle at once”) = sl st; single crochet (“take up 1 loop on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle at once”) = sc; double crochet (“put yarn around hook, take up 1 loop on the chain, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops at a time”) = dc; long crochet (yarn over, pick up a loop, yarn over and pull through 1 loop, then through 2 loops twice) = modern extended double crochet, not used in these designs; treble crochet (“put yarn around hook twice”, pick up a loop, then pull through 2 loops three times) = tr. For these stitches the 1915 American names already match modern US usage, so no stitch changes height.
• Modernisation note: The book prints no abbreviations (“No abbreviations are used in this book”); its words are written as modern US abbreviations: chain = ch, slip stitch = sl st, single crochet = sc, double crochet = dc, treble crochet = tr, stitch(es) = st(s), skip = sk, space = sp, loop = lp, yarn over hook = yo, repeat = rep. “Needle” (used for the crochet hook) is written as hook; “take up / pick up 1 loop” as “draw up a lp”; “break off the yarn” as “fasten off”; “fasten the yarn” as “join yarn”; ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2nd row”) as Row 1, Row 2.
• Modernisation note: “Taking up in the double stitch” (the book's phrase for inserting the hook under both top loops of the stitch below) is written as “through both loops”; “taking up in the back of the stitches” is written as “in back loop only (blo)”. “Plain” (a row with no increases, or 1 sc in every st) is kept and explained where it first appears.
• Modernisation note: The book's afghan stitches are Tunisian crochet worked on an ordinary long hook: loops are picked up on the forward pass and worked off on the return pass, both passes counting as one row. Its Old Afghan Stitch (loops picked up “in the front” of the loops on the row below) is modern Tunisian simple stitch; its Purled Afghan Stitch (loops picked up “in the back of the loops” on the row below) is Tunisian simple stitch worked through the back vertical bar. The return, “put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time”, is explained elsewhere in the book as pulling through “1 loop (of those picked up) at a time” — the standard Tunisian return (yo and draw through 1 lp, then yo and draw through 2 lps until 1 lp remains). The book's names are kept, with this reading.
• Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation. The book calls rounds “rows” and ridges of 2 rows “ribs”; both words are kept as printed.
• Modernisation note: Hook numbers (bone, amber, celluloid and steel, with steel “Style” numbers) refer to the book's actual-size pictures of 1915 hooks, which print no diameters, so no exact metric size can be read from the book. The suggested modern hook is an approximate starting point chosen for the yarn weight and tied to any printed measurement.
• Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed anywhere in the book; work a swatch and match any printed measurement (given in the modern gauge line) before starting.
• Modernisation note: Sunlight yarns are 1915 trade names with no exact modern equivalent. The CYC weights given are approximations only, based on the book's own descriptions: Saxony (“a fine, soft, three-ply thread”) as super fine (CYC #1); Shetland Floss (“a very lofty, fluffy yarn”) as fine (CYC #2); Four-fold Germantown as light (CYC #3); Eight-fold Germantown (“about twice as heavy” as the four-fold) as medium (CYC #4); Golf Yarn (“a four-ply, lofty yarn”) and German Knitting Worsted/Yarn as medium (CYC #4). Yardage is never printed — the book gives skeins (or balls) only, and their weight and length are not stated.
• Modernisation note: The cross-stitch embroidery is described in words only; no chart is printed. Follow the photograph or chart your own motif.
• Modernisation note: The directions are “Written for white and lavender”. The design says “For details, see Rib Stitch page 17, and Old Afghan Stitch, page 27”; both are spelled out in the rows as printed. “Make the slip stitch (see First Stitches)” — the cross-reference is omitted.
• Modernisation note: Sole and shoe sizes (“Size 5”, “Soles, No. 5”) are 1915 trade sizes with no printed measurement.
• Modernisation note: Check: the toe square's stitch is not named; the afghan stitch of the turnover is presumably meant. Left as printed.
• Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.