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Pointed Couch Blanket (1915): vintage crochet pattern
A ripple couch blanket in back-loop single crochet, striped in four shades each of old rose and green with the lightest shade at the center of each stripe, finished with crossed double crochet and shells along the sides and a shaded fringe at each point.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Easy |
| Yarn weight | Light (#3) |
| Yardage | the book gives 36 skeins of old rose and 28 skeins of green Four-fold Germantown; skein weight and yardage are not stated. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 4.5 mm |
| Gauge | No stitch gauge printed. Printed checks: the chain is about 3½ yards (3.2 m) long; 16 points = 2 yards (1.8 m) wide. |
| Finished size | 2 × 2½ yards (1.8 × 2.3 m); 16 points across. |
| Time | about 3 hours |
Materials
- Light (CYC #3) wool yarn — the original was Sunlight Four-fold Germantown in 4 shades of old rose (lightest 4 skeins, next 12, next to darkest 11, darkest 9) and 4 shades of green (lightest 4 skeins, 8 skeins of each other shade)
- Crochet hook (original: amber No. 5)
- Large-eyed (chenille) needle for the fringe
- Hook: Start with 4.5 mm (US 7) — approximate; change size so 16 points make the printed width of 2 yards (1.8 m)
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #3 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Caron Simply Soft Light · 100% Premium Acrylic
330 yds per skein · Gentle sheen, ultra soft against skin
2 skeins required
approx. $$11.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- single crochet
- double crochet
- stitch
- stitches
- loop
- space
- yarn over
- repeat
- row
- skip
- back loop only
- shell
Notes before you start
- Source: "Pointed Couch Blanket", The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting, W. G. Perry, Chicago, 1915. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown; 4 Shades in Old Rose; 4 Shades in Green; In Old Rose—4 skeins of lightest shade, 12 skeins next shade 9 skeins of darkest, 11 skeins next to darkest; In Green—4 skeins of lightest shade, 8 skeins of each of the other shades; 1 Amber Crochet Hook No. 5. Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own definitions (“First Stitches — Crocheting”), not by name: chain stitch (“make a chain of loops, pulling out 1 loop through the other”) = ch; slip stitch (“place the hook in a loop on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle at once”) = sl st; single crochet (“take up 1 loop on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle at once”) = sc; double crochet (“put yarn around hook, take up 1 loop on the chain, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops at a time”) = dc; long crochet (yarn over, pick up a loop, yarn over and pull through 1 loop, then through 2 loops twice) = modern extended double crochet, not used in these designs; treble crochet (“put yarn around hook twice”, pick up a loop, then pull through 2 loops three times) = tr. For these stitches the 1915 American names already match modern US usage, so no stitch changes height.
- Modernisation note: The book prints no abbreviations (“No abbreviations are used in this book”); its words are written as modern US abbreviations: chain = ch, slip stitch = sl st, single crochet = sc, double crochet = dc, treble crochet = tr, stitch(es) = st(s), skip = sk, space = sp, loop = lp, yarn over hook = yo, repeat = rep. “Needle” (used for the crochet hook) is written as hook; “take up / pick up 1 loop” as “draw up a lp”; “break off the yarn” as “fasten off”; “fasten the yarn” as “join yarn”; ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2nd row”) as Row 1, Row 2.
- Modernisation note: “Taking up in the double stitch” (the book's phrase for inserting the hook under both top loops of the stitch below) is written as “through both loops”; “taking up in the back of the stitches” is written as “in back loop only (blo)”. “Plain” (a row with no increases, or 1 sc in every st) is kept and explained where it first appears.
- Modernisation note: The book's own rule for the asterisk is kept: “A star (*) is often used before and after a group of words to indicate that the work described between the stars must be repeated.” Repeats are written “rep from *” as printed.
- Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation. The book calls rounds “rows” and ridges of 2 rows “ribs”; both words are kept as printed.
- Modernisation note: Hook numbers (bone, amber, celluloid and steel, with steel “Style” numbers) refer to the book's actual-size pictures of 1915 hooks, which print no diameters, so no exact metric size can be read from the book. The suggested modern hook is an approximate starting point chosen for the yarn weight and tied to any printed measurement.
- Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed anywhere in the book; work a swatch and match any printed measurement (given in the modern gauge line) before starting.
- Modernisation note: Sunlight yarns are 1915 trade names with no exact modern equivalent. The CYC weights given are approximations only, based on the book's own descriptions: Saxony (“a fine, soft, three-ply thread”) as super fine (CYC #1); Shetland Floss (“a very lofty, fluffy yarn”) as fine (CYC #2); Four-fold Germantown as light (CYC #3); Eight-fold Germantown (“about twice as heavy” as the four-fold) as medium (CYC #4); Golf Yarn (“a four-ply, lofty yarn”) and German Knitting Worsted/Yarn as medium (CYC #4). Yardage is never printed — the book gives skeins (or balls) only, and their weight and length are not stated.
- Modernisation note: The design says “For detail see Rib Stitch, page 17”; the book's Rib Stitch is sc worked in the back of the stitches, as written in Row 2.
- Modernisation note: The book calls this “the pointed stitch”; it is a modern ripple (chevron).
- Modernisation note: Check: “Make 1 rib in each shade. The lightest shade will make the center rib in every stripe” — the shade order within a stripe (darkest to lightest and back) is not otherwise stated. Left as printed.
- Modernisation note: Check: Row 1 has 20 sc between points, Row 2 has 10 sc on each side of the point after skipping 2 sts; the counts are left as printed.
- Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
Row progress: 0 of 6 done (0%)
Blanket
0 of 6 done- With the darkest Old Rose, make a chain about 3½ yards (3.2 m) long.Mark row complete
- Row 1: *Make 20 sc, 1 in each ch; then 3 sc in the next ch and rep from *. This makes 1 point; rep until there are 16 points for the width of the blanket. End the row with the 20 sc, ch 1, turn.Mark row complete
- Row 2: Make 2 sc in the 1st st of the previous row (always in blo). Make 8 sc, *sk 2 sts of the previous row, make 10 sc, then 3 sc in the next st, make 10 sc and rep from *, ending the row with 2 sc in the last st; ch 1, turn.Mark row complete
- Rep Row 2 for the work. 2 rows make 1 rib.Mark row complete
- Make 1 rib in each shade. The lightest shade makes the center rib of every stripe.Mark row complete
- Make 1 stripe in Old Rose and 1 in Green and rep this for a length of 2½ yards (2.3 m) or the length desired.Mark row complete
Working on:
With the darkest Old Rose, make a chain about 3½ yards (3.2 m) long.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Pointed Couch Blanket (1915) pattern is in the Vintage Afghans & Bedspreads
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Side Edging
- Finishing
Included with 73 patterns for $19 — $0.26 per pattern.

Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Pointed Couch Blanket pattern from?
It was published as "Pointed Couch Blanket" in The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting by W. G. Perry, Chicago in 1915. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Pointed Couch Blanket?
light (#3) yarn. Not printed — the book gives 36 skeins of old rose and 28 skeins of green Four-fold Germantown; skein weight and yardage are not stated.
What hook should I use?
Start with 4.5 mm (US 7) — approximate; change size so 16 points make the printed width of 2 yards (1.8 m) Gauge: No stitch gauge printed. Printed checks: the chain is about 3½ yards (3.2 m) long; 16 points = 2 yards (1.8 m) wide.







