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Ink Bottle Cosy and Cover from Desk Set No. 1095 (1916): vintage crochet pattern

A square-bottomed sleeve for an ink bottle worked from the base up — a chain-5 ring widened into a square by five double crochet at each corner, then raised on a back-loop row into plain sides, a band of bean stitches and a drawstring row — with a matching lid worked from the same first three rows and.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Book page 17, where the Desk Set No. 1095 directions are printed, the Ink Bottle and its cover on the lower half of the page
Ecru · Embroidery pink · Embroidery green · Embroidery blueSave to Pinterest
Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelIntermediate
Yarn weightLace (#0)
Yardagethe book gives only ball and skein counts. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook1.5 mm
GaugeNo gauge printed.
Finished sizeNot printed. The sleeve is worked to fit an ink bottle, whose size the book does not give.
Timeabout 9 hours

Materials

  • A firm cotton crochet thread — the book names only its own product and number, “Crochet 5x No. 1075”, and prints no size number for it, so no modern size is claimed here
  • Stranded embroidery cotton in pink, green and blue for the trimming — the book names only its own shade numbers, 1201 pink, 1182 green and 1302 blue
  • Crochet hook to match whatever thread you pick
  • Embroidery needle
  • Cord or ribbon for the two drawstrings
  • Hook: No hook size is printed for this design; the materials line names the threads and stops. Choose the hook to match whatever thread you pick, and change size until the base lies flat and the sides stand up.
Smart Yarn Matcher

Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
slip stitch
single crochet
double crochet
cluster
back loop only
front loop only
stitch
stitches
skip
repeat
row
round

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Desk Set No. 1095 — Ink Bottle" (1095), Royal Society Crochet Lessons, Vol. 1, No. 7, H. E. Verran Company, Inc., New York, 1916. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: ROYAL SOCIETY Crochet 5x No. 1075, 2 balls; Celesta No. 1201, 2 skeins; No. 1182, 2 skeins; No. 1302, 2 skeins; A drawing string for each drawstring row. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches are converted from the key this book prints itself, not from the date. The key is on book page 3, headed “CROCHET STITCHES”, facing a photographic plate of the same fifteen stitches on book page 2, and it defines every height in full. Single crochet is “insert needle in last chain and pull thread through, thus having two loops on needle. Wind thread once over needle and pull through the two loops” — the modern US single. Half double crochet is named and abbreviated separately, “wind thread once around needle, insert into chain and pull loop through. Wind thread around needle again and pull through three loops at once” — the modern US half double. Double crochet is “wind thread once around needle. Insert needle into chain and pull through; this leaves three loops on needle. Wind thread once around needle and pull through two. Wind thread again over needle and pull through two” — the modern US double, and because the book names the half double separately it cannot be the half double that Clark's 1923 book in another part of this library means by the same-looking abbreviation. Treble crochet is “made same way as Double Crochet, only at first wind thread twice over needle and pull thread through three times — two and two and two” — the modern US treble, written tr below; double treble takes three wraps and is written dtr. The key also defines the filet mesh as “chain two stitches, skip two stitches, one double crochet into next stitch” and a shell as “five double crochet in one stitch”. One trap in the printed abbreviation table on that page: it glosses “sp.” as spoke, not space, so no bare “sp.” anywhere in this book has been read as a space.
  • Modernisation note: The book's wording is written in modern US form: “ch.” = ch; “s.c.” = sc; “h.d.c.” = hdc; “d.c.” = dc; “t.c.” and “tr.c.” = tr; “d.tr.c.” = dtr; “sl. st.” = sl st; “sk.” = sk; “p.” = picot; “m.” = mesh. Ordinal row names (“1st Row”, “2nd Row”) are written Row 1, Row 2; the book's “repeat from *” is written rep from *; and “finish off” is written fasten off. The book's own word “hole” for the gap it works into is kept, because that is the word it uses and it never abbreviates it.
  • Modernisation note: The printed paragraphs are split into one row or step per line; stitch order and counts are unchanged. Section headings are the book's own where it prints them and ours where it does not. The OCR of this scan is rough — it prints “d.c.” variously as “dc”, “de” and “dic”, sets row labels as “lst Bow”, “Qnd Bow” and “8rd Row”, and drops words at the column breaks. Those quirks are kept in the excerpts and not in the rows.
  • Modernisation note: The book names its threads by the maker's own trade name and colour number — Royal Society Cordichet in a stated size, sometimes with a colour number such as No. 3012. Those colour numbers were shade codes in the maker's own range and cannot be matched to any modern shade card, so they are recorded as printed and not converted. The stated thread size is read as roughly equal to the modern crochet cotton size of the same number — approximate only.
  • Modernisation note: The book prints a hook number for most designs, but the number belongs to the maker's own scale rather than to any modern one, so it is recorded above as printed and the metric suggestion below is ours, read across from the thread size rather than from the page.
  • Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design — the book prints no gauge, tension or stitch count per inch anywhere. Work a sample and change hook size until the piece lies flat.
  • Modernisation note: No finished measurement is printed for this design.
  • Modernisation note: No yardage is printed for this design. The book gives ball counts only, and where it does they are recorded above as printed; no length in yards or metres appears anywhere in the book.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the book prints this design's rows as 1 to 8 and then jumps straight to 14, because Row 8 carries the instruction “make 5 more rows of plain d.c.”, which accounts for rows 9 to 13. The book's own numbering is kept above rather than renumbered.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the two bean stitches in this design are not the same stitch. The sleeve's Row 14 takes four wraps into the stitch — “repeat from * twice” after the first insertion — and the cover's Row 4 takes five, “repeat from * 3 times more”, which is also the count the blotter corner on the same page uses. Both are the book's own and both are kept where the book puts them.
  • Modernisation note: Check: “taking up back rib” and “into the front rib” are the book's own words for working in the back loop and the front loop. That is what turns the flat square bottom up into the sides at Row 7, and what the finishing row of single crochet is worked into, so the book's phrasing is followed closely.
  • Modernisation note: Check: no size is printed for the ink bottle the sleeve is meant to fit, and no finished measurement is printed for the crochet, so the fit is left to the worker.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the book prints no material for the two drawing strings, only the instruction to pull one through each row of loops.
  • Modernisation note: Check: only the crochet is transcribed as instructions; the bands and fans are embroidery, not crochet, and are set out separately above in the book's own words.
  • Modernisation note: Check: every tall stitch in this design is the book's d.c., the modern US double crochet by the printed key. No treble appears in it.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 15 done (0%)

Ink bottle sleeve

0 of 15 done
  1. The ink bottle is started at the bottom.
    Mark row complete
  2. Row 1: Ch 5, join to a ring, ch 3, 12 dc into the ring. Join to the first dc.
    Mark row complete
  3. Row 2: Ch 3, 1 dc into the next st, *5 dc into the following st for the corner, 2 dc into the 2 next sts, 5 dc into the next st, 2 dc into the 2 following sts. Rep from *. Join with sl st to the first dc of the row.
    Mark row complete
  4. Row 3: Ch 3, 3 dc into the 3 next sts, 5 dc into the following st, 6 dc into the next 6 sts, 5 dc into the next st, continue around. Join to the first dc of the row.
    Mark row complete
  5. Row 4: Ch 3, 5 dc into the next 5 sts, 5 dc into the next st, 10 dc into the next 10 sts, 5 dc into the next st, continue around. Join with sl st.
    Mark row complete
  6. Row 5: Ch 3, 7 dc into the next sts, 5 dc into the next st, 14 dc into the next sts, 5 dc into the next st, continue around. Join with sl st.
    Mark row complete
  7. Row 6: Ch 3, 9 dc into the next sts, 5 dc into the next st, 18 dc into the next sts, 5 dc into the next st, continue around. Join with sl st. This completes the bottom of the bottle.
    Mark row complete
  8. Row 7: taking up only the back rib, ch 3, 1 dc into each st all around. Join.
    Mark row complete
  9. Row 8: Ch 3, 1 dc into each st all around, join. Make 5 more rows of plain dc.
    Mark row complete
  10. Row 14: Ch 3, 1 bean st — to make a bean st, thread around the needle, insert into the next st, *thread around the needle, insert into the same st, rep from * twice, pull through all the loops on the needle — ch 1, sk 1, 1 bean st, ch 1, sk 1, 1 bean st, continue all around. Join with sl st to the first bean st.
    Mark row complete
  11. Row 15: Ch 3, 1 dc into each st all around, join.
    Mark row complete
  12. Row 16: Ch 3, sk 1, 1 sc, ch 3, sk 1, 1 sc, continue all around.
    Mark row complete
  13. Row 17: Ch 1, 1 sc into the first loop of the ch 3, ch 3, 1 sc into the next loop, continue all around.
    Mark row complete
  14. Pull the drawing string through the last row of loops.
    Mark row complete
  15. Into the front rib between the 6th and 7th row, work 1 row of 1 sc into every st, to form the bottom of the bottle.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

The ink bottle is started at the bottom.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Ink Bottle Cosy and Cover from Desk Set No. 1095 (1916) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Hats, Bags & Accessories

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Cover for the ink bottle
  • Embroidery
  • Finishing

Included with 202 patterns for $12 — $0.06 per pattern.

See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage hats and accessories collection: a crochet hat, purse and slippers

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the Desk Set No. 1095 — Ink Bottle pattern from?

It was published as "Desk Set No. 1095 — Ink Bottle" in Royal Society Crochet Lessons, Vol. 1, No. 7 by H. E. Verran Company, Inc., New York in 1916. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Desk Set No. 1095 — Ink Bottle?

Not printed — the book names the thread by the maker's own product number only. Not printed — the book gives only ball and skein counts.

What hook should I use?

No hook size is printed for this design; the materials line names the threads and stops. Choose the hook to match whatever thread you pick, and change size until the base lies flat and the sides stand up. Gauge: No gauge printed.

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