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“Snowflake” Filet Crochet Insertion (1914): vintage crochet pattern

A 7-mesh filet crochet insertion with the small solid-mesh snowflake of the “Mother” towel, set with a one-mesh open margin at each side. Originally published as "Filet Crochet Insertion “Snowflake”" in Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston in 1914, it is now in the public domain.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Fig. 12, filet crochet insertion “Snowflake”
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Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelEasy
Yarn weightLace (#0)
YardageNot printed. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook1.5 mm
GaugeNo gauge printed.
Finished size7 meshes wide. Length as desired.
Timeabout 4 hours

Materials

  • Cotton crochet thread, about size 10 (not printed)
  • Sewing needle and thread to attach
  • Hook: Start with 1.5 mm (US steel 7) — approximate; no thread or hook is printed for this insertion
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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
double crochet
stitch
row
repeat

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Filet Crochet Insertion “Snowflake”" (Fig. 12), Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson), The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston, 1914. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: Not given for this insertion. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own definitions (pages 3–6), not by name: chain stitch (“ch”) = ch; slip stitch (“sl” — “made with the needle in the loop, a loop pulled through the work and through the loop on the needle”) = sl st; double crochet (“d” — “made with the needle in the loop, a loop drawn through the work and another loop drawn through both”) = modern US single crochet (sc); treble crochet (“t” — “another loop over the needle, a loop drawn through the work (making three loops on the needle), then a loop is drawn through two on the needle, leaving two loops on the needle; another loop drawn through these two finishes the treble”) = modern US double crochet (dc); double treble crochet (“d t” — “two loops over the needle, one loop drawn through the work, when there will be four loops on the needle”, then worked off two at a time three times) = modern US treble crochet (tr). The 1914 names are one step taller than modern US names (they match modern UK usage), so every printed “d” is written sc, every “t” dc and every “d t” tr.
  • Modernisation note: The book's words and letters are written as modern US abbreviations: ch = ch, sl = sl st, d = sc, t = dc, d t = tr; “needle”, “crochet-needle” or “hook” = hook; “thread over needle (hook)” = yo; “draw thread through (the work)” = draw up a lp; “miss” = sk; “over ch” or “over each chain” = in the ch-sp; “fasten the thread” = fasten off; ordinal names (“1st row”, “2d round”) = Row 1, Rnd 2. Repeats between stars are written “*… ; rep from *” as printed; the book's own rule: “When you see the little stars before and after any directions, whether long or short, the work directed is to be repeated once, or more times.”
  • Modernisation note: Filet crochet as the book defines it: open mesh = ch 2, 1 dc in the next dc (the book: “make 2 ch, 1 t … (always skip 2 ch)”); solid mesh = 3 dc, “2 t over the chain and 1 t over the t below”; “5 ch to turn” = ch 5, counting as the first dc and ch 2 of the first mesh. The book adds: “It is better to catch under both threads at the top of the treble than under a single thread.”
  • Modernisation note: The book's running paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation. Cross-references to other pages of the book are replaced by the stitch lesson itself, copied at the start of the design.
  • Modernisation note: Hooks are printed as 1914 steel crochet-needle numbers (the book: “from No. 1 (a very large hook, almost as large as a medium-size bone hook) to No. 14, which is very fine”) or as bone, rubber and amber hooks of “small” or “medium” size, with no diameters. The modern hook given is an approximate starting point only, chosen for the thread or yarn and tied to any printed measurement.
  • Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed anywhere in the book; work a swatch and match any printed finished measurement.
  • Modernisation note: Yardage is never printed; the book gives balls, skeins, spools or hanks only (or nothing), so no yardage is estimated.
  • Modernisation note: Rows 2–6 are not printed row by row; they are the towel's five snowflake rows (5 open, 1 solid, 1 open, 1 solid, 5 open / 4 open, 2 solid, 1 open, 2 solid, 4 open / 6 open, 1 solid, 6 open / as row 2 / as row 1) with 3 open meshes removed from each side, as the book directs (“a margin of but one open mesh each side instead of four”). Each row totals 7 meshes.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the book does not say how many open rows to work between snowflakes; in the photograph (Fig. 12) the snowflakes appear separated by open rows. Follow the photograph and repeat for the length needed.
  • Modernisation note: Materials are not printed; the modern thread and hook are suggestions. The finishing step is ours, following the towel directions.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 3 done (0%)

Stitches (the book's lessons)

0 of 3 done
  1. Chain (ch), the book's lesson: the hook, first through a loop, is caught under the thread over your left forefinger, and catching a loop there it is pulled back through the loop on the hook. Repeat as long as the chain is to be made.
    Mark row complete
  2. Double crochet (dc; the book's “treble crochet”, “t”): yo, insert the hook, draw a loop through the work (3 lps on hook); draw a loop through 2 lps (2 lps on hook); draw another loop through these 2. When starting a row of dc, ch 3 to bring the hook to the top of the row.
    Mark row complete
  3. Filet crochet, the book's lesson: an open mesh is ch 2, 1 dc in the next dc (always sk 2 ch); a solid mesh is 3 dc — 2 dc in the ch-2 sp and 1 dc in the next dc. Ch 5 to turn (counts as the first dc and ch 2). Work under both loops at the top of each dc.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Chain (ch), the book's lesson: the hook, first through a loop, is caught under the thread over your left forefinger, and catching a loop there it is pulled back through the loop on the hook. Repeat as long as the chain is to be made.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the “Snowflake” Filet Crochet Insertion (1914) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Insertion (7 meshes wide)
  • Finishing

Included with 618 patterns for $9 — $0.01 per pattern.

See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage edgings and trims collection: narrow crochet lace strips on folded linen

Errata

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the Filet Crochet Insertion “Snowflake” pattern from?

It was published as "Filet Crochet Insertion “Snowflake”" in Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston in 1914. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Filet Crochet Insertion “Snowflake”?

About size 10 crochet cotton (not printed). Not printed.

What hook should I use?

Start with 1.5 mm (US steel 7) — approximate; no thread or hook is printed for this insertion Gauge: No gauge printed.

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