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Filet Crochet Insertions B, C and D (1914): vintage crochet pattern
Three simple filet crochet insertions for towels or pillow-cases: B, 9 meshes wide with bands of solid meshes; C, 5 meshes wide with small diamonds; and D, 5 meshes wide with a diagonal line of solid meshes. Originally published as "Filet Crochet Insertions B, C, and D" in Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Easy |
| Yarn weight | Lace (#0) |
| Yardage | Not printed. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 1.5 mm |
| Gauge | No gauge printed. |
| Finished size | Insertion B is 9 meshes wide; C and D are 5 meshes wide. Length as desired. |
| Time | about 7 hours |
Materials
- Cotton crochet thread, about size 10 (not printed)
- Sewing needle and thread to attach
- Hook: Start with 1.5 mm (US steel 7) — approximate; no thread or hook is printed for these insertions
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic
315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture
2 skeins required
approx. $$10.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- double crochet
- stitch
- row
- repeat
Notes before you start
- Source: "Filet Crochet Insertions B, C, and D" (Fig. 11), Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson), The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston, 1914. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: Not given for these insertions (the book's towel insertion is of Cordonnet crochet cotton with a steel hook). Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own definitions (pages 3–6), not by name: chain stitch (“ch”) = ch; slip stitch (“sl” — “made with the needle in the loop, a loop pulled through the work and through the loop on the needle”) = sl st; double crochet (“d” — “made with the needle in the loop, a loop drawn through the work and another loop drawn through both”) = modern US single crochet (sc); treble crochet (“t” — “another loop over the needle, a loop drawn through the work (making three loops on the needle), then a loop is drawn through two on the needle, leaving two loops on the needle; another loop drawn through these two finishes the treble”) = modern US double crochet (dc); double treble crochet (“d t” — “two loops over the needle, one loop drawn through the work, when there will be four loops on the needle”, then worked off two at a time three times) = modern US treble crochet (tr). The 1914 names are one step taller than modern US names (they match modern UK usage), so every printed “d” is written sc, every “t” dc and every “d t” tr.
- Modernisation note: The book's words and letters are written as modern US abbreviations: ch = ch, sl = sl st, d = sc, t = dc, d t = tr; “needle”, “crochet-needle” or “hook” = hook; “thread over needle (hook)” = yo; “draw thread through (the work)” = draw up a lp; “miss” = sk; “over ch” or “over each chain” = in the ch-sp; “fasten the thread” = fasten off; ordinal names (“1st row”, “2d round”) = Row 1, Rnd 2. Repeats between stars are written “*… ; rep from *” as printed; the book's own rule: “When you see the little stars before and after any directions, whether long or short, the work directed is to be repeated once, or more times.”
- Modernisation note: Filet crochet as the book defines it: open mesh = ch 2, 1 dc in the next dc (the book: “make 2 ch, 1 t … (always skip 2 ch)”); solid mesh = 3 dc, “2 t over the chain and 1 t over the t below”; “5 ch to turn” = ch 5, counting as the first dc and ch 2 of the first mesh. The book adds: “It is better to catch under both threads at the top of the treble than under a single thread.”
- Modernisation note: The book's running paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation. Cross-references to other pages of the book are replaced by the stitch lesson itself, copied at the start of the design.
- Modernisation note: Hooks are printed as 1914 steel crochet-needle numbers (the book: “from No. 1 (a very large hook, almost as large as a medium-size bone hook) to No. 14, which is very fine”) or as bone, rubber and amber hooks of “small” or “medium” size, with no diameters. The modern hook given is an approximate starting point only, chosen for the thread or yarn and tied to any printed measurement.
- Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed anywhere in the book; work a swatch and match any printed finished measurement.
- Modernisation note: Yardage is never printed; the book gives balls, skeins, spools or hanks only (or nothing), so no yardage is estimated.
- Modernisation note: Materials are not printed for these insertions; the modern thread and hook are suggestions based on the towel insertion.
- Modernisation note: Check: Insertion B gives only its first two rows, then “The pattern can be followed back and forth”; in the photograph (Fig. 11, B) the two rows appear to alternate — 1 row of open meshes, 1 row of 1 open, 7 solid, 1 open. Follow the photograph.
- Modernisation note: Check: for Insertion C the book says “repeat the 2d, 3d, and 4th rows” twice after groups of 3 open rows; continue this sequence for the length needed.
- Modernisation note: Sewing the insertion to linen is not described for these insertions; the finishing step is ours, following the towel directions.
Row progress: 0 of 3 done (0%)
Stitches (the book's lessons)
0 of 3 done- Chain (ch), the book's lesson: the hook, first through a loop, is caught under the thread over your left forefinger, and catching a loop there it is pulled back through the loop on the hook. Repeat as long as the chain is to be made.Mark row complete
- Double crochet (dc; the book's “treble crochet”, “t”): yo, insert the hook, draw a loop through the work (3 lps on hook); draw a loop through 2 lps (2 lps on hook); draw another loop through these 2. When starting a row of dc, ch 3 to bring the hook to the top of the row.Mark row complete
- Filet crochet, the book's lesson: an open mesh is ch 2, 1 dc in the next dc (always sk 2 ch); a solid mesh is 3 dc — 2 dc in the ch-2 sp and 1 dc in the next dc. Ch 5 to turn (counts as the first dc and ch 2). Work under both loops at the top of each dc.Mark row complete
Working on:
Chain (ch), the book's lesson: the hook, first through a loop, is caught under the thread over your left forefinger, and catching a loop there it is pulled back through the loop on the hook. Repeat as long as the chain is to be made.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Filet Crochet Insertions B, C and D (1914) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Insertion B (9 meshes wide)
- Insertion C (5 meshes wide)
- Insertion D (5 meshes wide)
- Finishing
Included with 618 patterns for $9 — $0.01 per pattern.

Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Filet Crochet Insertions B, C, and D pattern from?
It was published as "Filet Crochet Insertions B, C, and D" in Priscilla Juniors' Crochet Book (Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston in 1914. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Filet Crochet Insertions B, C, and D?
About size 10 crochet cotton (not printed). Not printed.
What hook should I use?
Start with 1.5 mm (US steel 7) — approximate; no thread or hook is printed for these insertions Gauge: No gauge printed.






