Free preview · full pattern in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims
Figure 30 Picot Circle Square Edging (1916): vintage crochet pattern
Squares worked from a 52-chain ring, each edged with circles of trebles hung on picot bars and then joined circle to circle along the strip; the squares are filled with net stitch and the top is closed with a heading of chained bars and trebles.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Advanced |
| Yarn weight | Lace (#0) |
| Yardage | the book gives no thread quantity for any design. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 0.75 mm |
| Gauge | No gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread. |
| Finished size | Not printed — the piece is worked to the length required. |
| Time | about 4 hours |
Materials
- Size 100 crochet thread — approximate modern equivalent of the book's No. 100 crochet cotton
- 0.75 mm steel hook (US steel 14) — approximate for the book's No. 14 hook
- Fine tapestry or sewing needle for the ends
- Hook: Start with 0.75 mm (US steel 14) — approximate for the book's No. 14 hook; change size until the thread runs easily without splitting and the lace lies flat.
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic
315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture
2 skeins required
approx. $$10.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- single crochet
- half double crochet
- double crochet
- slip stitch
- stitch
- stitches
- skip
- space
- repeat
- row
- round
- loop
Notes before you start
- Source: "Figure 30. Edging", The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions, No. 2 (Edited by Belle Robinson), The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, 1916. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: Crochet cotton No. 100 — the book's Materials paragraph says “crochet cotton” means the hard-twisted cotton sold as Cordonnet, Cordonnet Special, Cordichet, Kord-net and similar; Hook No. 14. Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Stitches” (printed page 3), not by name. This book uses the older British-style naming, so its stitch names do NOT match modern US names: chain (ch) = ch; slip stitch (sl) = sl st; “double” (d), “put hook through work, draw thread through work (making two loops on the hook); thread over again and through both loops” = modern US single crochet (sc) — the book itself notes this stitch “has been, especially in wool crochet, called ‘single crochet’”; “half treble” (ht), thread over, through work, “thread over and through all three sts at once” = modern US half double crochet (hdc); “treble” (t), thread over, through work, “thread over and through two loops, thread over and again through two loops” = modern US double crochet (dc); “double treble” (dt), thread over twice and worked off by twos three times = modern US treble crochet (tr); “long treble” (lt) or “triple treble” (tt), thread over three times and crocheted off by twos = modern US double treble (dtr); “quadruple treble” (qt), thread over four times = modern US triple treble (trtr). Every stitch in these instructions has been rewritten in the modern US name and abbreviation on that basis.
- Modernisation note: The book's picot (p) is defined on the same page: “A p is formed on a ch by joining the last four sts (or any given number) in a ring by working a sl, or a d, in the fourth st from the hook. In the following directions a sl is understood unless otherwise designated.” Picots are written out as “picot” with the chain count the design gives, since the site's abbreviation list has no picot entry.
- Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: d = sc, ht = hdc, t = dc, dt = tr, lt/tt = dtr, st(s) = st(s), sp = sp, p = picot, blk = block, “miss” = sk, “thread over (the hook)” = yo, “repeat” = rep, “needle” (where it is used for the crochet hook) = hook. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2d row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, and “1st round”/“2d round” as Rnd 1, Rnd 2. Section headings (Heading, Edge, Lower Edge, Filling) are the book's own where it prints them.
- Modernisation note: The book prints each design as one or two solid paragraphs; these have been split into one row, round or step per line. Stitch order and counts are unchanged. Where the book's own repeat markers (*, **, ***) span several lines they are kept as printed.
- Modernisation note: Thread sizes are the book's own numbering. Its Materials paragraph says that “where the words ‘crochet cotton’ are used in the text of this book, the cotton referred to is the hard-twisted cotton known by such names as Cordonnet, Cordonnet Special, Cordichet, Kord-net, etc.” “No. N crochet cotton” is given below as modern size N crochet thread, which is an approximation: modern size numbering runs the same way (higher number = finer thread) but the exact diameters are not identical. No yardage is printed anywhere in the book, so none is given here.
- Modernisation note: Hook sizes are the book's own steel numbering. The 1916 steel numbering is not identical to the modern one, so every metric size below is approximate and should be adjusted to the thread.
- Modernisation note: No gauge and no finished measurements are printed for this design; work a sample repeat and adjust the hook until the lace lies flat at the width you want.
- Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
- Modernisation note: Check: the book says only “Fill in the centre of squares with double net stitches” and gives no count for that filling; work the net to suit the size of the opening.
Row progress: 0 of 7 done (0%)
Square
0 of 7 done- Ch 52.Mark row complete
- Rnd 1: Do not join the ch with a sl st; instead, make 3 sc in the 1st st, working over the end of the thread and taking up 2 threads of the st, (12 sc in the next 12 sts, 3 sc in the next st) 3 times, 12 sc in the next 12 sts, join to the 1st sc with sl st.Mark row complete
- Rnd 2: Sl st in each of the next 2 sc, ch 3 for a dc, 4 more dc in the same st where the ch 3 began, (14 dc in the next 14 sc, 5 dc in the next st) 3 times, 14 dc in the next 14 sc, join with sl st in the top st of the ch-3.Mark row complete
- Rnd 3: Ch 2 for the 1st sc, sc in each of the next 2 dc, (picot of 6 joined with sc) twice, * ch 13, put the hook down through the 2nd st from the last picot and make a sl st across to bring the thread on the right side of the ring, make 1 sc, 1 hdc, 19 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc in the ring, ch 1, (picot of 6, joined by sc) twice, * sc in the same st with the last sc on the corner of the square, 5 sc in the next 5 sts; rep from * to * twice more on the side, missing 1 dc between the picot bars, and making 6 dc in the next 6 dc. At the corners rep from * to *, making 1 sc in the same st with the last sc; on the sides sk 1 dc between each pair of picot bars, and 6 sc in the next 6 dc; rep on each side, making 3 sc after the last picot bar on the last side, joining to the 2nd ch st with sl st, and break the thread.Mark row complete
- Rnd 4: Having a st on the hook, put the thread over and make * 1 dc in the 7th st of the first circle at the corner, (ch 1, picot of 6 joined by sc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in the next) 5 times, ch 1 *; rep from * to * in each circle around the square, join to the 1st dc with sl st, and break the thread.Mark row complete
- Fill in the centre of the squares with double net stitches.Mark row complete
- Make as many squares as required for the length, joining each square to the preceding one in Rnd 4 as follows: after the 1st sp on the circle at the third corner, ch 4, take the hook out of the work and insert in the second picot of the corresponding circle of the preceding square, catch the dropped st and draw through the picot, ch 3, 1 sc in the 2nd st, ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in the next dc; rep in the next picot. This leaves 2 free picots above the joining, and this side must be placed towards the top of the lace.Mark row complete
Working on:
Ch 52.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Figure 30 Picot Circle Square Edging (1916) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Heading
- Finishing
Included with 618 patterns for $9 — $0.01 per pattern.

Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Figure 30. Edging pattern from?
It was published as "Figure 30. Edging" in The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions, No. 2 (Edited by Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1916. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Figure 30. Edging?
Size 100 crochet thread. Not printed — the book gives no thread quantity for any design.
What hook should I use?
Start with 0.75 mm (US steel 14) — approximate for the book's No. 14 hook; change size until the thread runs easily without splitting and the lace lies flat. Gauge: No gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread.







