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Figure 16 Four-Ring Medallion Wide Edging (1916): vintage crochet pattern
A wide edging of square medallions, each begun as four wound rings joined by long chains and filled out into a filet square, then surrounded by looped scallops and picot fans; the medallions are joined as they are made and the top is finished with four rows of trebles.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Advanced |
| Yarn weight | Lace (#0) |
| Yardage | the book gives no thread quantity for any design. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 1.15 mm |
| Gauge | No gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread. |
| Finished size | Not printed — the piece is worked to the length required. |
| Time | about 4 hours |
Materials
- Size 50 crochet thread — approximate modern equivalent of the book's No. 50 crochet cotton
- 1.15 mm steel hook (US steel 10) — approximate for the book's No. 10 hook
- Fine tapestry or sewing needle for the ends
- Hook: Start with 1.15 mm (US steel 10) — approximate for the book's No. 10 hook; change size until the thread runs easily without splitting and the lace lies flat.
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic
315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture
2 skeins required
approx. $$10.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- single crochet
- double crochet
- treble crochet
- double treble crochet
- slip stitch
- stitch
- stitches
- skip
- space
- repeat
- row
- round
- loop
- back loop only
Notes before you start
- Source: "Figure 16. Wide Edging", The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions, No. 2 (Edited by Belle Robinson), The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, 1916. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: Crochet cotton No. 50 — the book's Materials paragraph says “crochet cotton” means the hard-twisted cotton sold as Cordonnet, Cordonnet Special, Cordichet, Kord-net and similar; Hook No. 10. Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Stitches” (printed page 3), not by name. This book uses the older British-style naming, so its stitch names do NOT match modern US names: chain (ch) = ch; slip stitch (sl) = sl st; “double” (d), “put hook through work, draw thread through work (making two loops on the hook); thread over again and through both loops” = modern US single crochet (sc) — the book itself notes this stitch “has been, especially in wool crochet, called ‘single crochet’”; “half treble” (ht), thread over, through work, “thread over and through all three sts at once” = modern US half double crochet (hdc); “treble” (t), thread over, through work, “thread over and through two loops, thread over and again through two loops” = modern US double crochet (dc); “double treble” (dt), thread over twice and worked off by twos three times = modern US treble crochet (tr); “long treble” (lt) or “triple treble” (tt), thread over three times and crocheted off by twos = modern US double treble (dtr); “quadruple treble” (qt), thread over four times = modern US triple treble (trtr). Every stitch in these instructions has been rewritten in the modern US name and abbreviation on that basis.
- Modernisation note: The book's picot (p) is defined on the same page: “A p is formed on a ch by joining the last four sts (or any given number) in a ring by working a sl, or a d, in the fourth st from the hook. In the following directions a sl is understood unless otherwise designated.” Picots are written out as “picot” with the chain count the design gives, since the site's abbreviation list has no picot entry.
- Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: d = sc, ht = hdc, t = dc, dt = tr, lt/tt = dtr, st(s) = st(s), sp = sp, p = picot, blk = block, “miss” = sk, “thread over (the hook)” = yo, “repeat” = rep, “needle” (where it is used for the crochet hook) = hook. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2d row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, and “1st round”/“2d round” as Rnd 1, Rnd 2. Section headings (Heading, Edge, Lower Edge, Filling) are the book's own where it prints them.
- Modernisation note: The book prints each design as one or two solid paragraphs; these have been split into one row, round or step per line. Stitch order and counts are unchanged. Where the book's own repeat markers (*, **, ***) span several lines they are kept as printed.
- Modernisation note: Thread sizes are the book's own numbering. Its Materials paragraph says that “where the words ‘crochet cotton’ are used in the text of this book, the cotton referred to is the hard-twisted cotton known by such names as Cordonnet, Cordonnet Special, Cordichet, Kord-net, etc.” “No. N crochet cotton” is given below as modern size N crochet thread, which is an approximation: modern size numbering runs the same way (higher number = finer thread) but the exact diameters are not identical. No yardage is printed anywhere in the book, so none is given here.
- Modernisation note: Hook sizes are the book's own steel numbering. The 1916 steel numbering is not identical to the modern one, so every metric size below is approximate and should be adjusted to the thread.
- Modernisation note: No gauge and no finished measurements are printed for this design; work a sample repeat and adjust the hook until the lace lies flat at the width you want.
- Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
- Modernisation note: The book warns that “sometimes ‘long treble’ is used for anything longer than dt, and the number of loops given”. Wherever it writes “long t (over N times)” the wrap count is kept in the modern text, because the height of that stitch is set by the wrap count and not by the name: over 3 times = dtr, over 4 times = trtr, and longer wraps are written out as they are printed.
Row progress: 0 of 7 done (0%)
Medallion
0 of 7 done- The medallions are made separately, and the second is joined to the first with sl st when the 8th and the 11th picots are made.Mark row complete
- Rnd 1 (includes the four rings and connecting ch): Ch 15, join with sl st, 24 sc in the ring, * ch 33, sl st into the 15th st from hook, bring the working thread down under and back of the ch between the rings, 8 sc in the ring, join to the first ring (in the 8th st from the top) by dropping the st from the hook, insert the hook in the 8th st, catch the dropped st and draw through, 16 more sc in the ring; rep from * twice more, joining the 16th st of the fourth ring to the side of the first ring. After the fourth ring is finished, ch 18, sl st in the top of the first ring. Care must be taken that the ch between the rings do not become twisted.Mark row complete
- Rnd 2: * 9 sc in the next 9 ch, ch 3, 9 sc in the next 9 sc; rep from * 3 times more, join.Mark row complete
- Rnd 3: Ch 4, sk 1 dc, dc in the next st, (ch 1, sk 1, dc in the next st) twice more, ch 1, dc under the ch-3 at the corner, ch 3, dc in the same place, * ch 1, sk 1, dc in the next; rep from * across one side. (In order to have 12 dc on each side, dc into the first st after the ch-3 and do not sk 1 in the middle of the side, but make 2 dc with ch-3 between, over the ch 3 at the corner.) After the last ch-1, sl st in the third st of the ch 4 at the beginning of the row.Mark row complete
- Rnd 4: Make 1 sc in each st (taking up the back thread), join, and sl st to the next corner of the figure.Mark row complete
- Rnd 5: Sc in each st of one side of the figure (taking up the back loop of the st), * ch 12, join (with sl st) one third of the way back on the side just worked; rep from * twice more, the last time joining at the corner, (17 sc over the ch-12, sc in the st between the loops) twice, 8 sc over the next ch-12, (ch 12, join back at the middle st of the 17 sc) twice, 17 sc over the last ch, sc between the loops, 8 sc over the next ch, ch 12, join back in the middle st of the 17 sc, 17 sc over the ch, (9 sc over the next ch) twice, sc in the st at the end of the ch, ch 5; rep from the beginning of the round on the three remaining sides of the figure.Mark row complete
- After the fourth scallop is finished, turn, sl st back over 9 sc to the next loop, ch 5, turn, * a long treble (thread over 3 times) under the ch-5 at the corner, (ch 5, long treble in the same place) 3 times, ch 5, sl st in the lower st of the second loop at the side of the next scallop, sl st across the next 8 sts to the top of the loop, ch 5, turn, long treble (thread over 3 times) in the last ch-5 of the last row, (ch 5, long treble in the next ch-5) 4 times, ch 5, sl st at the end of the top of the next scallop, sl st in the next 3 sts, ch 3, turn, over each ch-5 make (1 tr, picot, 2 tr, picot, 2 tr, picot, 1 tr), after the last tr ch 3, sl st in the 4th st of the top loop of the next scallop, sl st across the loop and across the next loop, ch 5 and rep from * twice more, making scallops around three corners of the central square; after the last tr ch 3, sl st in the 4th st of the top loop, cut and fasten the thread.Mark row complete
Working on:
The medallions are made separately, and the second is joined to the first with sl st when the 8th and the 11th picots are made.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Figure 16 Four-Ring Medallion Wide Edging (1916) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Heading
- Finishing
Included with 618 patterns for $9 — $0.01 per pattern.

Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Figure 16. Wide Edging pattern from?
It was published as "Figure 16. Wide Edging" in The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions, No. 2 (Edited by Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1916. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Figure 16. Wide Edging?
Size 50 crochet thread. Not printed — the book gives no thread quantity for any design.
What hook should I use?
Start with 1.15 mm (US steel 10) — approximate for the book's No. 10 hook; change size until the thread runs easily without splitting and the lace lies flat. Gauge: No gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread.







