Free preview · full pattern in the Heirloom Doilies & Tablecloths

Figure 19 Tumbler Doily with Cluny Scallops (1915): vintage crochet pattern

A small luncheon doily begun on a marked linen centre 2½ inches across: the first round is worked into 59 marks from the wrong side, then treble crochet and long-treble Cluny groups build seven scallops finished with thirteen long picots each.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Printed page 15 — the directions for Fig. 19, Tumbler Doily; the doily itself is photographed on printed page 14.
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Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelAdvanced
Yarn weightLace (#0)
Yardagethe book gives no thread quantity for this design. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook1.9 mm
GaugeNo gauge printed. Work the first few rounds and match the hook to the thread so the work lies flat.
Finished sizePaper pattern for the linen centre 2½ in (6.5 cm) in diameter.
Timeabout 4 hours

Materials

  • Size 60 linen or cotton thread — approximate modern equivalent of the book's No. 60 linen spool thread
  • 1.9 mm steel hook (US steel 5) — approximate for the book's No. 5 hook
  • Fine linen for the centre, plus paper, pencil and basting thread for the marked pattern
  • Hook: Start with 1.9 mm (US steel 5) — approximate for the book's No. 5 hook; change size until the thread runs easily and the work lies flat.
Smart Yarn Matcher

Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
slip stitch
single crochet
double crochet
treble crochet
double treble crochet
stitch
stitches
skip
repeat
round
cluster
wrong side
right side

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Figure 19. Tumbler Doily", The Priscilla Crochet Book: Centerpieces and Doilies (edited by Belle Robinson), The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, 1915. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: Linen spool thread No. 60; Crochet needle No. 5. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Stitches” (printed page 3), not by name. This book uses the older British-style naming, so its stitch names do NOT match modern US names: chain (ch) = ch; slip stitch (sl) = sl st; “double” (d), hook through work, draw thread through, “thread over again and through both loops” = modern US single crochet (sc) — the book adds that this stitch “has been, especially in wool crochet, called ‘single crochet’”; “half treble” (h t), thread over, through work, then “thread over and through all three sts at once” = modern US half double crochet (hdc); “treble” (t), thread over, through work, “thread over and through two loops, thread over and again through two loops” = modern US double crochet (dc); “double treble” (d t), thread over twice and worked off by twos three times = modern US treble crochet (tr); “long treble” (l t) or “triple treble” (t t), thread over three times, worked off by twos = modern US double treble (dtr); “quadruple treble” (q t), thread over four times = modern US triple treble. Every stitch below has been rewritten in the modern US name and abbreviation on that basis.
  • Modernisation note: The book's picot (p) is defined on the same page: it is formed on a chain by joining the last four stitches (or any given number) in a ring by working a slip stitch or a single crochet in the fourth stitch from the hook, and “a sl is understood unless otherwise designated.” Picots are written out as “picot” with the chain count the design gives, since the site's abbreviation list has no picot entry.
  • Modernisation note: The book's “Cluny stitches, or groups of Cluny” are defined on printed page 3 as two, three, four or any given number of trebles, double trebles or long trebles (modern dc, tr or dtr) “crocheted off, except the last loop of each, which is kept on the needle and one loop drawn through all together” — that is, a modern cluster. These are written below as clusters with the stitch and count the design gives.
  • Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: d = sc, h t = hdc, t = dc, d t = tr, l t = dtr, st(s) = st(s), sp = sp, “miss” = sk, “thread over (the needle)” = yo, “repeat” = rep, “needle” (for the crochet hook) = hook. Ordinal row and round names (“1st round”, “2d round”) are written Rnd 1, Rnd 2 and Row 1, Row 2. Section headings (Border, Edge, Heading) are the book's own where it prints them. The book's British spelling “centrepiece” is kept inside quoted names.
  • Modernisation note: The book prints each design as one or two solid paragraphs; these have been split into one round, row or step per line. Stitch order and counts are unchanged. Where the book's own repeat markers (*, **) span several lines they are kept as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Hook sizes are the book's own steel numbering, and the book itself says only a suggestion can be given: “since crochet-hooks vary, even in the most carefully graded kinds, it follows that only suggestion and not absolute directions can be given for the selections of crochet hooks.” The 1915 steel numbering is not identical to the modern one, so every metric size below is approximate and should be adjusted to the thread.
  • Modernisation note: The book's general “Directions for Working” asks the worker to allow for tension, especially in chain stitches: loose workers may need one chain fewer in places and tight workers one or more chains more, “more necessary in circular work than that of straight rows.” That allowance applies to every design here.
  • Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design; work the centre rounds and adjust the hook until the piece lies flat.
  • Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
  • Modernisation note: Materials for Figs. 19–22 are printed once, as a group heading: linen spool thread No. 60 and crochet needle No. 5.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 4 done (0%)

Preparing the linen centre

0 of 4 done
  1. Cut a circular paper pattern (for the foundation stitches) 2½ in in diameter; divide the circumference into seven equal parts, for seven scallops.
    Mark row complete
  2. Divide these seven parts, the first into eight equal parts, the next into nine, and so on around, the last into eight parts, the whole circumference having 59 marks equally distant from each other.
    Mark row complete
  3. Lay the paper pattern on the linen, draw the circumference and mark outward from the pattern at each of the 59 marks.
    Mark row complete
  4. Cut the linen ⅛ in outside the line of circumference, fold back and baste. The marks will be on the wrong side of the doily.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Cut a circular paper pattern (for the foundation stitches) 2½ in in diameter; divide the circumference into seven equal parts, for seven scallops.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Figure 19 Tumbler Doily with Cluny Scallops (1915) pattern is in the Heirloom Doilies & Tablecloths

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Doily
  • Finishing

Included with 236 patterns for $19 — $0.08 per pattern.

See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage doilies and tablecloths collection: lace doilies in fine cotton thread with a steel hook

Errata

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the Figure 19. Tumbler Doily pattern from?

It was published as "Figure 19. Tumbler Doily" in The Priscilla Crochet Book: Centerpieces and Doilies (edited by Belle Robinson) by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1915. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Figure 19. Tumbler Doily?

Size 60 thread. Not printed — the book gives no thread quantity for this design.

What hook should I use?

Start with 1.9 mm (US steel 5) — approximate for the book's No. 5 hook; change size until the thread runs easily and the work lies flat. Gauge: No gauge printed. Work the first few rounds and match the hook to the thread so the work lies flat.

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