Lady's Breakfast Kimono in Puff Stitch (1912): vintage crochet pattern

Materials

• Super fine (CYC #1) wool yarn — approximate; the original was Saxony, 10 skeins White and 2 skeins Black (skein weight and length not printed)
• 4½ yd (4.1 m) ribbon (original: No. 4)
• Crochet hook (original: medium-sized bone hook)
• Tapestry needle
• Hook: Start with 3.5 mm (US E-4) — approximate; check the printed length of ½ yd (46 cm) from neck to lower edge after 18 rows of puffs and the stripes

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch

chain

sc

single crochet

dc

double crochet

st

stitch

sts

stitches

sk

skip

sp

space

yo

yarn over

ps

puff stitch

sh

shell

rep

repeat

row

row

Notes before you start

• Source: "Lady's Kimono", Priscilla Wool Crochet Book (ed. Lola Burks Hettich), The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, 1912. Public domain in the USA.
• As printed — materials: Ten skeins of white and 2 of black Saxony; 4½ yards of No. 4 ribbon; A medium-sized bone hook. Gauge: Not given.
• Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Stitches”, not by name: chain stitch (ch st, “make a series of loops, drawing each loop through the preceding one”) = ch; slip stitch (sl st, “insert the hook into the stitch, draw the wool through that stitch and through the wool on hook at the same time”) = sl st; single crochet (s c, “insert the hook, draw wool through, pass wool around hook (wool over), and draw it through both loops on the hook”) = sc; double crochet (d c, wool around the hook, insert, draw through, then through 2 loops twice) = dc; half double crochet (h d c, wool around the hook, insert, draw through, then “through all 3 loops at once”) = hdc; treble crochet (t c or tr c, wool around the hook twice, insert, draw through, then through 2 loops three times) = tr. For these stitches the 1912 American names already match modern US usage, so no stitch changes height. The book's long crochet (l c: wool around the hook, insert, draw through, then through 1 loop, then through 2 loops twice) is the modern extended double crochet; where used it is written “long crochet” with that definition.
• Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: ch st = ch, s c = sc, d c = dc, h d c = hdc, t c / tr c = tr, st(s) = st(s), “wool over” / “thread over” / “pass the wool around the hook” = yo; “miss” = sk; loop = lp; “repeat” = rep; “beginning” = beg. “Widen” is written as increase and “narrow” as decrease, as defined in each design. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2d row”) are written Row 1, Row 2; where the book calls a circuit of a round piece a “row” the book's word is kept. “Plain” (a row or round with no increases or decreases) is kept as printed.
• Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation.
• Modernisation note: Hooks are printed as bone hooks described only as fine, medium-sized or coarse, or by an unstated numbering system, with no diameters, so no exact metric size can be read from the book. The suggested modern hook is an approximate starting point chosen for the yarn weight and tied to any printed measurement.
• Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed for this design; work a swatch and match any printed measurement (given in the modern gauge line) before starting.
• Modernisation note: The yarns are 1912 trade descriptions with no exact modern equivalent, and the book prints no yardage or skein/ball weights except where quoted in the materials. The CYC weights given are approximations only: Saxony (a fine, firm yarn) and 2-ply (single) zephyr as super fine (CYC #1); ice wool (a very fine, lustrous yarn) as super fine (CYC #1); Shetland floss (a soft, lofty yarn) and eiderdown wool as fine (CYC #2) — lofty yarns and to be matched by gauge or measurement rather than by weight; 4-ply (split) zephyr, 4-fold Germantown and Spanish yarn as light (CYC #3); 8-fold Germantown and knitting worsted as medium (CYC #4).
• Modernisation note: The book's “puff” (3 lps drawn up in one place, each after a yo, all drawn through together and fastened by a sc) is a modern puff stitch (ps); its definition, printed inside Row 3, is placed first.
• Modernisation note: “Thread” (the yarn) is written as yarn. The book's “Lady's Breakfast Kimono” caption is used in the title.
• Modernisation note: Row labels added for the stripes and the sc rows; the book's own row numbers (“1st row”, “3d row”) are kept where printed.
• Modernisation note: Check: the book says “The next row is the same as the 2d” for the second sc row; the widening row (Row 4) is the first of the pair.
• Modernisation note: Check: “make 2 s c in every 10th space” is the only shaping, so the kimono is a wide, flat shape fastened under the arms; the book does not describe the sleeve fastening further.
• Modernisation note: Check: the outer border rows are dense and kept exactly as printed; test one scallop before making the full length.
• Modernisation note: Finishing line (weaving in ends) added. Metric conversions added.