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Basket Yoke Bar-and-Cross Beading (1919): vintage crochet pattern
The beading printed for the Yoke in Basket Design, worked over a row of filet spaces: a single upright bar and a crossed pair of trebles alternate all the way round, making a row of openings for ribbon. Originally published as "Yoke in Basket Design — Beading" in J. & P. Coats Crochet Book No. 3: Yokes and.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Intermediate |
| Yarn weight | Lace (#0) |
| Yardage | the book gives only the thread number. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 0.9 mm |
| Gauge | No gauge printed. |
| Finished size | Not printed. Worked all around the neck and armholes of the piece it trims. |
| Time | about 2 hours |
Materials
- Size 80 mercerized cotton crochet thread — approximate; the original was Coats Mercerized Crochet, No. 80 (amount not printed)
- Steel crochet hook
- Tapestry needle for the ends
- Narrow ribbon, if the beading is to be threaded (the book neither names nor measures one)
- Hook: Start with a 0.9 mm (US steel 13) hook — approximate. Change size until the edging lies flat.
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic
315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture
2 skeins required
approx. $$10.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- treble crochet
- space
- chain space
- stitch
- repeat
- round
Notes before you start
- Source: "Yoke in Basket Design — Beading" (Plate 20), J. & P. Coats Crochet Book No. 3: Yokes and Gifts (designed by Anne Orr), J. & P. Coats (R. I.) Incorporated, Pawtucket, R.I., 1919. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: Coats Mercerized Crochet, No. 80; No. 14 Steel Hook. Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own key (“Foundation Stitches and How to Make Them”, book pages 4–5), not by name. The key defines: chain stitch (ch); slip stitch (sl st), drawn through the stitch and the loop on the needle in one motion; single stitch (s st), insert, draw through the stitch making two loops on the needle, then draw through those two — the modern US single crochet; treble crochet (tr), thread round the needle once, insert, draw through making three loops, then off two and off two, with the note “Three chains equal one treble” — the modern US double crochet; double treble crochet (d tr), thread round twice, worked off two at a time for three repeats — the modern US treble; triple treble crochet (tr tr), thread round three times, four repeats — the modern US double treble. So this 1919 book's treble names stand one step taller than modern US names, and every book tr is written dc here, every d tr is written tr, every tr tr is written dtr, and every s st is written sc. This is American period naming, not British: the key's working definitions settle it, since the book's “single stitch” draws through both loops in one step (a sc, not a British dc) and its “treble” takes only one thread-over.
- Modernisation note: The book's wording is written in modern US form: “needle” = hook; “thread around the needle” = yo; “skip” = sk; “Repeat from *” = rep from *; st(s) = st(s); sp = sp; p = picot. Ordinal row names (“1st Row”, “2d Row”, “3d Row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, Row 3, and the book's word “Row” is kept even where the work goes around. “2d sp”, “3d sp”, “4th s st” mean the 2nd, 3rd and 4th space or stitch counted on from the last one worked.
- Modernisation note: Picot (p) is the book's own (key No. 9): “usually made by a chain of three or five, then a slip stitch in the first chain”, with any variation given in the design's own directions. No design in this file prints its own picot count, so the chain-3 or chain-5 picot of the key is the one to use.
- Modernisation note: Space (sp) and block (bl) are the book's filet units (key Nos. 10 and 11): a space is 1 dc, ch 2, sk 2; a block is dc worked in adjoining stitches, four dc in the first block of a run and three in each block after it. A space at the beginning of a row starts with ch 5 — three for the edge dc and two for the chain at the top of the space.
- Modernisation note: The printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts are unchanged. Section headings added for navigation.
- Modernisation note: Coats Mercerized Crochet numbers are read as roughly equal to the modern crochet thread sizes of the same number — approximate only. The book's own back page describes the thread as “a cabled or corded cotton”, made in White in sizes 1 to 100 and Ecru in sizes 1 to 50, but prints no ball length or yardage for any design, so no yardage is given here.
- Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design. The only measurement note in the whole book is the key's remark that a filet space “should result in a perfect square”; work a sample and change hook size until the mesh squares up and the edging lies flat.
- Modernisation note: No finished measurement is printed for this edging; it is worked to fit the piece it trims, so its length is set by that piece.
- Modernisation note: Check: no colour is printed for this design. The plates photograph as a plain light thread, and the book's back page lists Coats Mercerized Crochet in White in every size and in Ecru up to size 50.
- Modernisation note: The book prints “No. 14 Steel Hook” for this design. That is a 1919 maker's steel-hook number and does not map onto the modern US steel scale, so the metric hook suggested here is ours, read across from the thread size; the printed number is recorded in the original materials.
- Modernisation note: Check: this edging is printed as the finish of a filet piece whose own pattern of blocks and spaces is given only as a squared chart, so that piece is not transcribed here. The edging itself is complete as printed and is written below as it stands — worked over a row of filet spaces, which is all it needs. Work it over the last row of any filet piece with the same spacing, or over a foundation row of spaces made to the length wanted.
- Modernisation note: Not printed. The book gives no ball count or yardage for any design.
- Modernisation note: The book's “1 d tr” is written 1 tr throughout (see the stitch key note): the 1919 double treble is the modern US treble.
- Modernisation note: Check: the opening ch 8 is the book's own and is not explained; read across the rest of the book's beadings (“Fasten in sp, ch 8, * 1 d tr…”), it stands for the first bar plus its chains.
- Modernisation note: Check: “in the 2nd sp at the right of the last d tr” and “in the next sp at the left of the 1st d tr” are the book's wording for the crossed pair; the two trebles lean across each other, which is what makes the cross.
- Modernisation note: Finishing lines added; the book prints none.
Row progress: 0 of 3 done (0%)
Beading
0 of 3 done- Fasten in a sp, ch 8.Mark row complete
- *1 tr in the 3rd sp, ch 3, 1 tr in the 2nd sp to the right of the last tr, ch 2, 1 tr in the next sp to the left of the first tr, ch 2; rep from *.Mark row complete
- The book: “This will form a beading of one bar and one cross alternately.”Mark row complete
Working on:
Fasten in a sp, ch 8.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Basket Yoke Bar-and-Cross Beading (1919) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Finishing
Included with 618 patterns for $9 — $0.01 per pattern.

Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Yoke in Basket Design — Beading pattern from?
It was published as "Yoke in Basket Design — Beading" in J. & P. Coats Crochet Book No. 3: Yokes and Gifts (designed by Anne Orr) by J. & P. Coats (R. I.) Incorporated, Pawtucket, R.I. in 1919. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Yoke in Basket Design — Beading?
Size 80 crochet cotton (approximate). Not printed — the book gives only the thread number.
What hook should I use?
Start with a 0.9 mm (US steel 13) hook — approximate. Change size until the edging lies flat. Gauge: No gauge printed.







