Genoa Scallop Lace (1891): vintage crochet pattern

Materials

• Crochet cotton or linen thread — the book prints no size; its own section title names cotton and linen
• Steel crochet hook to suit the thread
• Tapestry needle for the ends
• Hook: Check: the book prints no hook number for any design in this section, so no modern hook can be read across from a printed size. Match the hook to whatever thread you choose, and change size until the lace lies flat.

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch

chain

sc

single crochet

dc

double crochet

st

stitch

sts

stitches

sh

shell

sk

skip

rep

repeat

sp

space

lp

loop

row

row

Notes before you start

• Source: "Genoa Scallop Lace" (No. 52), Home Work: a choice collection of useful designs for the crochet and knitting needle, Rose Publishing Co. (Ltd.), Toronto, 1891. Public domain in the USA.
• As printed — materials: Not printed — the book names no thread, thread number, hook number or brand for the designs in this section; its printed section title is “Designs for Crocheting in Cotton and Linen”.. Gauge: Not given.
• Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own printed key, not by the look of the abbreviation. The key is headed “Terms used in Crochet” and stands at the head of PART ONE, SECTION I.—Terms and Stitches, BOOK PAGE 9 (image p-010.jpg), running onto book page 10 (image p-011.jpg). It prints ten entries: “Ch—Chain, a straight series of loops, each drawn with the hook through the preceding one.” “St—Stitch or Stitches.” “Sl st—Slip Stitch; put the hook through the work, thread over the hook, draw it through the stitch on the hook.” “S c—Single Crochet; having a stitch on the hook, put the hook through the work, thread over the hook, draw it through the work, thread over, draw it through the two stitches on the hook.” “D c—Double Crochet; having a stitch on the hook, put thread over the hook, then hook through the work, thread over, draw it through two stitches, thread over, draw it through the two remaining.” “Tr—Treble Crochet; like double, except that the thread is thrown twice round the hook before inserting the hook through the work. The stitches are worked off two at a time as in double crochet.” “H tr—Half Treble, sometimes called Short Treble crochet; like double crochet, except that when the three stitches are on the needle, instead of drawing thread through two stitches twice, it is drawn through all three at once.” “L tr—Long Treble; throw thread over needle three times before inserting hook in the work, work off two stitches at a time as in double crochet.” “P—Picot; make three, four, five, or as many chain stitches as you wish to have in the picot, and form them into a loop by making a single crochet or slip stitch on the first of them.” “Sh—Shell; this is usually made by putting two doubles, two chains, and two doubles in one stitch; or by putting three or more doubles in one stitch without chain stitches between.” “*—Star; this is used where certain stitches are to be repeated.” The heights are therefore MODERN US: the S c works off two loops (US single, not the British double); the D c works off three loops two at a time (US double); the Tr throws the thread twice (US treble); the L tr throws it three times (US double treble, written dtr here). The H tr is the decisive entry — it is defined as HALF OF THE DOUBLE, not of the treble, so despite its British-sounding name it is the modern US half double crochet, and its wording confirms that this book's D c really is the modern double. This book is therefore a hybrid: US heights under two British-flavoured names.
• Modernisation note: The book's wording is written in modern US form: “make a chain of N stitches” = ch N; “miss” and “pass over” = sk; “catch” and “fasten” = sl st or join, according to what the row is doing; “throw the thread over” = yo; “needle” and “hook” both mean the hook and are written hook; “under” a chain = into the chain space; “the 4th st. of ch.” = the 4th chain; “repeat from *” = rep from *. The book's numbered paragraphs (“1.”, “2.”, “3.”) are its rows and are written Row 1, Row 2, Row 3. The book's spelling “scallop” is kept.
• Modernisation note: The printed directions are already numbered row by row in this section, and are transcribed one row per line in the book's own order. The book's own sub-headings (Heading, For the edge, On the upper edge and so on) are kept as section headings. Stitch order and counts are unchanged and nothing is added; where the book stops without a stitch count, so does this transcription.
• Modernisation note: This is a microform scan and the optical reading of it carries the usual slips; every figure below was read back against the page image at 220 dpi. Recurring slips in this book's scanned text are “d. o” and “d. ¢” for d. c., “s. o” and “a. c.” for s. c., “at.” and “ata.” for st. and sts., “Ist” for 1st, “lst” for 1st, “1” and “l” for the figure 1, and “Bhell” for Shell. The rows below follow what the printed page actually shows, and any place where the scan and the page disagree is listed as a Check note.
• Modernisation note: No materials are printed for this design. This section of the book prints no thread brand, no thread number and no hook number for any of its designs — the only material guidance is the section's own printed title, “Designs for Crocheting in Cotton and Linen” (book page 23), which is recorded here as the book's own range rather than as this design's specification. Nothing is invented to fill the gap.
• Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design; the book prints no gauge, tension or mesh count anywhere in this section. Work a sample and change hook size until the lace lies flat.
• Modernisation note: No finished measurement is printed for this design. It is worked to the length of the piece it trims, so its length is set by that piece. The book's own word for its width is the one in the design's printed name — the designs called “Narrow” are narrow edgings.
• Modernisation note: Check: no colour is printed for this design. The engravings photograph as a plain light thread. The section's printed title names cotton and linen as its materials but names no colour; white and écru are recorded here as the ordinary choices for such thread, not as this design's printed colour.
• Modernisation note: No yardage is printed for this design, and none is estimated here — the book gives no thread size to estimate from.
• Modernisation note: “Shell” is the book's own key term (Sh, book page 10): “two doubles, two chains, and two doubles in one stitch; or three or more doubles in one stitch without chain stitches between.” Each design in this section also states its own shell in its first row — this design's is transcribed exactly as that first row prints it — and “shell on shell” or “shell in shell” means work the whole group into the shell of the row below. Nothing is standardised across designs here; the book's local wording is kept.
• Modernisation note: This design runs across a page turn (book page 55 to book page 56, images p-050.jpg and p-051.jpg); both leaves are present and were read. Rows 1 to 8 are on page 55 and Rows 9 to 18 with the second point on page 56.
• Modernisation note: This design's shell is stated in its own first row — 3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc in one stitch — and that local definition is used throughout rather than the book's general key.
• Modernisation note: THE OUTER MARGIN OF BOOK PAGE 56 IS TRIMMED IN THIS FILMING. Three lines lose their last word or two at the right edge: Row 10 ends “finish like 4th r__” where the last word is inked away to a smudge, Row 14 loses the figure after “ch.” in “ch. 2, shell, ch. _,” and Row 16 loses the figure after “ch” and the “c.” of “1 d. c.” Each is supplied above only from the design's own repeated wording in the same or the neighbouring row — Row 12's “finish like 6th row”, Row 14's own two further “ch. 5, shell” groups, Row 16's own two further “ch. 5, make a shell” groups — and the substitutions are listed one by one in the Check notes below. Nothing else is supplied anywhere.
• Modernisation note: Check: Row 10's last word is trimmed to an unreadable smudge on the page. It is read as “row” from Row 12, which prints the same formula in full as “finish like 6th row.”
• Modernisation note: Check: Row 14's chain figure after “ch. 2, shell,” is broken in the printing — only the lower bowl and part of the top bar survive. It is read as 5 from the two further “ch. 5, shell” groups that follow it in the same row.
• Modernisation note: Check: Row 16's “repeat from * 5 times, ch _” loses its figure at the trimmed edge and the row's last stitch prints as “1 d.” It is read as “ch. 5” from the two further “ch. 5, make a shell” groups in the same row, and as “1 d. c.” from the closing double of Rows 4, 6 and 8.
• Modernisation note: Check: Row 11 prints “ch. 2 and 3 in loops 5 times”, dropping the “d. c.” that Rows 13 and 14 print in the same formula. The page image reads it that way and nothing is supplied.
• Modernisation note: Check: the scan reads Row 1 as “ch. 2,3. c. in same st”; the page image reads “ch. 2, 3 d. c. in same st.”
• Modernisation note: Check: the scan reads Row 5's opening as “Ohain 3” and Row 6's as “' 6, Chain 2”; the page image reads “Chain 3” and “6. Chain 2”.
• Modernisation note: Check: the scan reads Row 9 without its number (“.. Same as 6th row thruugh the shells”) and Row 10 as “finish like 4th rw”; the page image numbers them 9 and 10 and reads “through”.
• Modernisation note: Check: the scan reads Row 14 as “ch. ¢ ty shell, ch. 5, sheil, 1 d.” and Row 16 as “make a shell in 2nd 7.” and “ch * make a zhell”; the page image reads “ch. 5, shell, ch. 5, shell, 1 d.”, “make a shell in 2nd loop” and “ch. 5, make a shell”.
• Modernisation note: Check: the scan reads Row 18 as “1 s c under middle of ch. 5” and “so on round the point”; the page image reads “1 s. c. under middle of ch. 5” and the same closing words.
• Modernisation note: The picot of Row 18 is the book's own — four chain caught back with a single crochet into the first of them — and is left in the book's words; there is no picot abbreviation in this file.
• Modernisation note: The engraving printed with this design is one of the few in this stretch that survives the filming, and the pointed scallop with its shell heading can be made out; nothing is read from it that is not also printed in words.