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Venetian Bag in Macramé Cord with Petals and Filet Sections (1912): vintage crochet pattern

A round macramé-cord bag: a flat single-crochet center is ringed with sixteen separately worked petals, then eight small filet triangles are worked off a chain ring and pinned between the petals and joined to them with picots. A chained top with treble-crochet anchors, a picot-edged double crochet round, joining figures, a picot strap with buttons and a knotted.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Venetian Bag, as photographed in the book
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Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelAdvanced
Yarn weightLace (#0)
YardageNot printed. The book gives balls, skeins, cards or pieces only, and their weight and yardage are not stated. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook2.25 mm
GaugeNo gauge printed.
Finished sizeNo finished measurement is printed for this design.
Timeabout 7 hours

Materials

  • Fine macramé or bag cord — approximate; the original was 2 balls of Macramé cord No. 6
  • Steel crochet hook (original: Star crochet hook No. 2)
  • Cord for the fringe (cut from the same cord; see finishing)
  • Hook: Start with 2.25 mm (US steel 2) — approximate; change size until the center lies flat
Smart Yarn Matcher

Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

Compare all yarns →

This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
slip stitch
single crochet
double crochet
treble crochet
stitch
stitches
round
row
repeat
skip
space
back loop only

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Venetian Bag", The Glossilla Book of Crochet Novelties, Bernhard Ulmann & Co., New York City, 1912. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: 2 balls Macrame cord, No. 6; 1 Star crochet hook, No. 2. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own key ("DESCRIPTION OF STITCHES — TERMS USED", book pages 3-6; the designs themselves cite it as "see page 3", "see page 4", "see page 5"), not by name. The printed table is: "ch. … chain stitch; s. c. … single crochet; d. c. … double crochet; t. c. … treble crochet; * a sign of a repetition to begin at that point." The worked definitions show that this 1912 book already uses modern US heights: its single crochet ("frequently known as half stitch") is worked by inserting the hook in the second chain from the hook, drawing the thread through, then thread over and through the 2 loops on the hook — the modern US single crochet; its double crochet ("known by many as 'plains'") is thread over, hook into the fourth chain from the hook, draw a loop through (3 loops on the hook), then thread over and through 2 loops twice — the modern US double crochet; its treble crochet is the same "only winding the thread on the needle twice instead of once", worked off two at a time three times — the modern US treble; and its "long treble crochet" wraps the thread three or four times — the modern US double treble or triple treble. So throughout this transcription the book's s. c. = sc, d. c. = dc, t. c./tr. c. = tr, and long treble = dtr. No stitch changes height.
  • Modernisation note: The asterisk is the book's own: "a sign of a repetition to begin at that point" (stitch key, book page 3). Repeat counts are kept exactly as printed — "repeat from * 4 times" is transcribed as printed and not re-counted.
  • Modernisation note: Period wording modernised: "needle" (used for the crochet hook) written as hook; "thread over (the needle)" as yo; "pick up a loop"/"draw up a loop" kept; "catch" (with a slip stitch) as join or sl st as the sense requires; "skip" as sk; "taking up the back thread only" as "in the back loop only"; "taking up both threads" as "under both loops"; "widen"/"narrow" as increase/decrease; "fasten off" kept; spaced abbreviations s. c., d. c., t. c./tr. c., sl. st., ch. written sc, dc, tr, sl st, ch. Ordinal row and round names ("Second row", "Eleventh round") written Row 2, Rnd 11.
  • Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts are unchanged. Section headings added for navigation where the printed text runs on.
  • Modernisation note: The materials are Bernhard Ulmann trade names of 1912 and have no exact modern equivalent; every modern substitution given here is an approximation. The book's own materials page describes them: "Glossilla Crochet" — "used where the highest lustre is required, even superior to silk"; "Solitaire Yarn" — "the most lustrous ball cotton yarn … in a large assortment of colors"; "Klondyke Thread" — "a soft metal thread for crocheting … in a rich, bright, gold color; furthermore, in aluminum, antique gold and antique silver"; "Handicraft Macrame" and "Bear Macrame" cords; "D. M. C. Cordonnet, in numbers 3 to 30" and "D. M. C. Perle, numbers 3 and 5". Bear Brand wools (Shetland floss, Zephyr Shetland, Saxony 3-fold, 4-fold Germantown) are the publisher's knitting yarns; their weights are not printed, and the CYC weights suggested here are read from how they are used, not from the book.
  • Modernisation note: Hooks are printed only as "Star crochet hook No. …" (the steel hooks) or "bone"/"amber" hook numbers, with no diameters anywhere in the book, so no exact metric size can be read from it. The millimetre and US sizes suggested here are approximate starting points; the bone- and amber-hook numbers were never standardised, so those suggestions are ours. Work a swatch and change size until the work lies flat and matches the photograph.
  • Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design, and none is printed anywhere in the book.
  • Modernisation note: The book's "coffee bean stitch", used for the buttons, is defined in its own stitch key (book page 5) and is referred to here by that name rather than repeated.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the printed Rnd 5 works the dc "in next ch." although the preceding rounds are single crochet; the stitches of the fourth round are meant. Left as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Check: no colour is printed for this design beyond the thread named in the materials.
  • Modernisation note: Metric conversions added where a measurement is printed; the printed inches are unchanged.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 4 done (0%)

Center

0 of 4 done
  1. Ch 4 and join in a ring. Make 6 sc in the ring. Do not join.
    Mark row complete
  2. Rnds 2-4: * 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in the next st; rep from * . Join with a sl st at the end of the fourth rnd.
    Mark row complete
  3. Rnd 5: Ch 5, * sk 1 ch, 1 dc in the next ch, ch 1, 1 dc in the next ch, ch 1; rep from * all around — 20 dc in the rnd. Join.
    Mark row complete
  4. Rnd 6: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sts, worked in the back loop only, 2 sc in the next st; rep from * all around. Do not fasten off.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Ch 4 and join in a ring. Make 6 sc in the ring. Do not join.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Venetian Bag in Macramé Cord with Petals and Filet Sections (1912) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Hats, Bags & Accessories

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Petals (make 16)
  • Sections (make 8)
  • Joining petals to sections
  • Top and final round
  • Joining figures, strap and buttons
  • Finishing

Included with 202 patterns for $12 — $0.06 per pattern.

See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage hats and accessories collection: a crochet hat, purse and slippers

Errata

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the Venetian Bag pattern from?

It was published as "Venetian Bag" in The Glossilla Book of Crochet Novelties by Bernhard Ulmann & Co., New York City in 1912. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Venetian Bag?

Fine macramé cord (original: No. 6). Not printed. The book gives balls, skeins, cards or pieces only, and their weight and yardage are not stated.

What hook should I use?

Start with 2.25 mm (US steel 2) — approximate; change size until the center lies flat Gauge: No gauge printed.

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