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Shamrock and Rose Bag in Irish Crochet (1912): vintage crochet pattern
An Irish crochet bag whose back is one shamrock motif — three chain rings filled with double crochet — grown outward in rounds of paired picots with petals worked in, four to each corner. The front is four motifs joined: two shamrocks and two roses. Ribbon holes, a scalloped border, eighteen stuffed balls and a cordeliere with slip.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Advanced |
| Yarn weight | Lace (#0) |
| Yardage | Not printed. The book gives balls, skeins, cards or pieces only, and their weight and yardage are not stated. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 2 mm |
| Gauge | No gauge printed. |
| Finished size | No finished measurement is printed for this design. |
| Time | about 10 hours |
Materials
- Size 5 pearl cotton — approximate; the original was 1 large skein of Perle Cotton No. 5
- Steel crochet hook (original: Star crochet hook No. 2 1/2) and a large hook for the cordeliere (original: bone or amber No. 7)
- Cotton wadding to stuff the balls
- Ribbon for the ribbon holes
- Hook: Start with 2 mm (US steel 4) for the motifs and about 4 mm (US G-6) for the cordeliere — approximate
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic
315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture
2 skeins required
approx. $$10.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- slip stitch
- single crochet
- double crochet
- stitch
- stitches
- round
- repeat
- skip
- space
- loop
Notes before you start
- Source: "Shamrock and Rose Bag", The Glossilla Book of Crochet Novelties, Bernhard Ulmann & Co., New York City, 1912. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: 1 large skein Perle Cotton, No. 5; 1 Star crochet hook, No. 2 1/2; 1 bone or amber crochet hook, No. 7. Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own key ("DESCRIPTION OF STITCHES — TERMS USED", book pages 3-6; the designs themselves cite it as "see page 3", "see page 4", "see page 5"), not by name. The printed table is: "ch. … chain stitch; s. c. … single crochet; d. c. … double crochet; t. c. … treble crochet; * a sign of a repetition to begin at that point." The worked definitions show that this 1912 book already uses modern US heights: its single crochet ("frequently known as half stitch") is worked by inserting the hook in the second chain from the hook, drawing the thread through, then thread over and through the 2 loops on the hook — the modern US single crochet; its double crochet ("known by many as 'plains'") is thread over, hook into the fourth chain from the hook, draw a loop through (3 loops on the hook), then thread over and through 2 loops twice — the modern US double crochet; its treble crochet is the same "only winding the thread on the needle twice instead of once", worked off two at a time three times — the modern US treble; and its "long treble crochet" wraps the thread three or four times — the modern US double treble or triple treble. So throughout this transcription the book's s. c. = sc, d. c. = dc, t. c./tr. c. = tr, and long treble = dtr. No stitch changes height.
- Modernisation note: The asterisk is the book's own: "a sign of a repetition to begin at that point" (stitch key, book page 3). Repeat counts are kept exactly as printed — "repeat from * 4 times" is transcribed as printed and not re-counted.
- Modernisation note: Period wording modernised: "needle" (used for the crochet hook) written as hook; "thread over (the needle)" as yo; "pick up a loop"/"draw up a loop" kept; "catch" (with a slip stitch) as join or sl st as the sense requires; "skip" as sk; "taking up the back thread only" as "in the back loop only"; "taking up both threads" as "under both loops"; "widen"/"narrow" as increase/decrease; "fasten off" kept; spaced abbreviations s. c., d. c., t. c./tr. c., sl. st., ch. written sc, dc, tr, sl st, ch. Ordinal row and round names ("Second row", "Eleventh round") written Row 2, Rnd 11.
- Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts are unchanged. Section headings added for navigation where the printed text runs on.
- Modernisation note: The materials are Bernhard Ulmann trade names of 1912 and have no exact modern equivalent; every modern substitution given here is an approximation. The book's own materials page describes them: "Glossilla Crochet" — "used where the highest lustre is required, even superior to silk"; "Solitaire Yarn" — "the most lustrous ball cotton yarn … in a large assortment of colors"; "Klondyke Thread" — "a soft metal thread for crocheting … in a rich, bright, gold color; furthermore, in aluminum, antique gold and antique silver"; "Handicraft Macrame" and "Bear Macrame" cords; "D. M. C. Cordonnet, in numbers 3 to 30" and "D. M. C. Perle, numbers 3 and 5". Bear Brand wools (Shetland floss, Zephyr Shetland, Saxony 3-fold, 4-fold Germantown) are the publisher's knitting yarns; their weights are not printed, and the CYC weights suggested here are read from how they are used, not from the book.
- Modernisation note: Hooks are printed only as "Star crochet hook No. …" (the steel hooks) or "bone"/"amber" hook numbers, with no diameters anywhere in the book, so no exact metric size can be read from it. The millimetre and US sizes suggested here are approximate starting points; the bone- and amber-hook numbers were never standardised, so those suggestions are ours. Work a swatch and change size until the work lies flat and matches the photograph.
- Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design, and none is printed anywhere in the book.
- Modernisation note: Check: the printed third rnd of the shamrock says to "continue as the twelfth round was made" — a reference carried over from the opera-bag directions on the preceding pages, where that round is the first picot round. It is transcribed here as the first picot round of this design.
- Modernisation note: Check: no colour is printed for this design beyond the thread named in the materials.
- Modernisation note: Metric conversions added where a measurement is printed; the printed inches are unchanged.
Row progress: 0 of 7 done (0%)
Shamrock motif (back of bag)
0 of 7 done- Using the steel hook, * ch 12 and join in a ring; rep twice from * to form the foundation for the shamrock.Mark row complete
- In the first ring made, work 1 sc, 25 dc, 1 sc, and rep in each ring.Mark row complete
- Rnd 2: Beginning again with the first ring, make 1 sc in each st all around the three leaves of the shamrock. Fasten off and draw the center of the shamrock up with the end of the thread.Mark row complete
- First picot rnd: 1 sc in the sixth st of one of the leaves, ch 7, catch back in the second ch to form a picot, ch 8, catch back in the third ch to form another picot, ch 2 — one set of picots. Sk 4 sts on the leaf, catch with sc in the next st. Make another set of picots as directed, sk 4 sts and catch down with sc. Continue in this way, making a set of picots and catching down until 4 sc have been caught down in each of the first two leaves. On the third leaf fewer sts must be skipped, so that an extra set of picots can be made and caught down, five times in all.Mark row complete
- Second picot rnd: 1 set of picots, catch in the center between the 2 picots of the preceding rnd, ch 8 snugly, catch in the next center, turn the work and in the ch 8 just made work 16 sc, ch 3 and turn, 15 dc on the 16 sc just made, ch 3 and catch down in the same space. * 1 set of picots, catch in the center between the next two picots, 1 set of picots, catch in the next center, ch 8 snugly, catch in the next center, turn, 16 sc, ch 3 and turn, 15 dc, ch 3, catch down as before; rep from * twice.Mark row complete
- Third rnd: 1 set of picots, catch in the center between the 2 picots of the preceding rnd and continue as the picot rnd was made, except that the picots are caught in the third, middle and thirteenth sts of the petals (three times).Mark row complete
- Rep the second and third rnds until there are four petals in each corner. There will be more picots between the petals on each rnd. Fasten off. This completes the back of the bag.Mark row complete
Working on:
Using the steel hook, * ch 12 and join in a ring; rep twice from * to form the foundation for the shamrock.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Shamrock and Rose Bag in Irish Crochet (1912) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Hats, Bags & Accessories
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Front — two shamrock motifs and two rose motifs
- Border around the top
- Balls (make 18) and cordeliere
- Finishing
Included with 202 patterns for $12 — $0.06 per pattern.

Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Shamrock and Rose Bag pattern from?
It was published as "Shamrock and Rose Bag" in The Glossilla Book of Crochet Novelties by Bernhard Ulmann & Co., New York City in 1912. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Shamrock and Rose Bag?
Size 5 pearl cotton. Not printed. The book gives balls, skeins, cards or pieces only, and their weight and yardage are not stated.
What hook should I use?
Start with 2 mm (US steel 4) for the motifs and about 4 mm (US G-6) for the cordeliere — approximate Gauge: No gauge printed.







