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The Lace Edging for a Handsome Runner: vintage crochet pattern

The pointed filet lace that edges the linen runner: an eight-row point that grows a mesh a row from eleven to eighteen, worked sixteen times along the cloth and then reversed so that the pattern lies the other way round the corner.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

The Lace Edging, with the finished toilet runner of linen and filet crochet photographed, book page 85
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Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelIntermediate
Yarn weightLace (#0)
YardageNot printed; see modernisation notes. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook1.4 mm
GaugeNot printed; work a sample and change hook size to suit.
Finished sizeNot printed; the book works 16 points for this size cloth.
Timeabout 7 hours

Materials

  • Size 30 to 40 white cotton crochet thread in place of the book's Ardern's No. 36 crochet cotton — ours, read across by thread number
  • A fine steel hook to suit the thread
  • Hook: Start with about 1.4 mm (US steel 7) — ours, approximate. The book prints only a maker's thread number and no hook. Change size until the fabric is firm and even.
Smart Yarn Matcher

Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
double crochet
space
repeat
row
stitch

Notes before you start

  • Source: "The Lace Edging", Beautiful Crochet on Household Linen (The Home Art Series, edited by Flora Klickmann), The Office of “The Girl's Own Paper & Woman's Magazine”, 4 Bouverie Street E.C., & 65 St. Paul's Churchyard, London. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: The crochet is done in Ardern's No. 36 Crochet Cotton.. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own printed key and its own printed mesh arithmetic, not by stitch name. This is a BRITISH book. The naming key stands at the head of book page 81 (image p-088.jpg) under “Abbreviations used.” and reads: “Ch = chain ; d c = double crochet ; tr = treble ; S = solid mesh ; O = open mesh.” The book then prints its filet arithmetic at book page 12 (image p-020.jpg) and again at book page 29 (image p-037.jpg): “Each open mesh is made by working 2 ch, 1 tr over 3 ch, and each solid mesh by working 3 tr over 3 ch. Each row should be turned with 5 ch, if the first mesh is an open one, 3 ch if it is solid.” A solid mesh of 3 tr turned with 3 ch can only be built from a stitch three chains tall — the modern US double crochet; a US treble would have required 4 ch and 6 ch. Book page 51 (image p-059.jpg) then names the whole ladder in one breath — “3 d c, 3 l tr, 6 tr, 6 htr, 6 d c” — giving d c, htr, tr, l tr, which is the British ladder and maps onto the modern US sc, hdc, dc, tr; book page 59 works the classic Irish rose petal as “1 d c, 1 tr, 6 l tr, 1 tr, 1 d c”. The book's “s c”, the old British single crochet, is the flat catching-back and joining stitch and is written sl st. So here: d c = sc, htr = hdc, tr = dc, l tr = tr, s c = sl st, miss = sk.
  • Modernisation note: This design is printed as a filet count: O is an open mesh and S is a solid mesh, and the book's own arithmetic for them is quoted in the terms note above. The counts are reproduced exactly as printed, in the book's own O and S notation, because that is the form the directions take; they are not expanded into stitch-by-stitch wording, which would mean rewriting the design rather than transcribing it. Every row in this design was read back off the page image and the meshes in each row add up to the width the design starts with.
  • Modernisation note: Where the book numbers its rows it does so as “1st Row.”, “2nd Row.” and so on, often with the directions running as a solid paragraph across two columns. They are split here into one row or step per line and the ordinals are written Row 1, Row 2, Row 3. Where a heading introduces a fresh numbered sequence inside the same design, that sequence is kept under its own section heading exactly as the book groups it. Stitch order and counts are unchanged.
  • Modernisation note: The scan of this book carries the usual optical-reading slips and every figure below was read back against the page image: the scan's “lst” and “Ist” are 1st, its “8rd” is 3rd, its “2Qnd” is 2nd, its “38rd” is 3rd, its “llth” is 11th, its “de” and “doe” and “dec” for a stitch are d c, its “ltr” is l tr, its “Ghtr” is 6 htr, its “ir” is tr, its “tims” and “turh” and “tiuith” are turn, its “Sanie” is Same, its “wotk” is work, its “miss3 ch” is miss 3 ch, and in the filet counts its “0” is the letter O and its “5” and “8” are frequently the letter S. These are scanning artefacts, not printed errors, and they are corrected silently in the rows; genuine PRINTED slips are a different matter and are always flagged with a “Check:” note instead of being quietly mended.
  • Modernisation note: Hooks are printed only as period British maker's numbers (“a No. 44 Hook”) or not at all, with no diameters, and those numbers do not map onto the modern scale. Any metric size given in the modern materials is ours and is a starting point only.
  • Modernisation note: No gauge, tension or stitch-per-inch figure is printed for this design, or for any design in this book. Work a sample and change hook size to suit the thread.
  • Modernisation note: No yardage is estimated. The book never prints a ball length, a reel length or a quantity for any design — it names a thread and sometimes a hook and nothing more — so there is no printed basis for a yardage figure and none is invented here.
  • Modernisation note: No finished measurement is printed for this design. Like most of the trimmings in this book it is worked to the length or size required, and its depth is set by the stitch counts printed, not by any measurement the book gives.
  • Modernisation note: Thread brands are listed exactly as printed. Ardern's, Star Sylko, Peri-Lusta and Manlove's were the British cotton and linen brands the book's readers bought; the higher the number the finer the thread, on the same principle as modern crochet cotton sizing. Where the book names a size, that size is kept as printed.
  • Modernisation note: This design is a trimming for household linen and the book assumes a linen article to work it on or sew it to. Where the book prints a linen measurement it is given above; where it does not, none is supplied here.
  • Modernisation note: The point grows by exactly one mesh a row — 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 — and so does the reversed pattern. Each row was read off the page image and then checked against that progression, which is what confirms the counts.
  • Modernisation note: The book prints three numbered sequences for this one edging: the point, a short turning sequence at the end of the 16th point that restarts at Row 6, and then a fresh Row 1 to Row 8 for the pattern lying the other way. Each is given its own heading here and each keeps the book's own numbering; renumbering them into one run would misrepresent the page.
  • Modernisation note: The group “4 dc, ch 3, 1 dc” that closes many rows is the book's printed edge treatment at the end of the row and is reproduced as printed, not folded into the mesh count.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 9 done (0%)

The point

0 of 9 done
  1. Work 37 ch, 6 ch to turn, 4 dc into the next 4 ch, and 11 open spaces on to the chain, 6 ch to turn.
    Mark row complete
  2. Row 2: 3 O, 7 S, 2 O; in the end space 4 dc, ch 3, 1 dc.
    Mark row complete
  3. Row 3: Turn with ch 6, 4 dc in the first space, 3 O, 1 S, 5 O, 1 S, 3 O.
    Mark row complete
  4. Row 4: 1 O, 1 S, 1 O, 1 S, 1 O, 3 S, 1 O, 1 S, 4 O. 4 dc, ch 3, 1 dc.
    Mark row complete
  5. Row 5: Ch 6, 4 dc, 5 O, 1 S, 1 O, 1 S, 1 O, 3 S, 1 O, 1 S, 1 O.
    Mark row complete
  6. Row 6: 1 O, 1 S, 5 O, 1 S, 4 O, 2 S, 2 O. 4 dc, ch 3, 1 dc.
    Mark row complete
  7. Row 7: Ch 6, 4 dc, 3 O, 2 S, 4 O, 7 S, 1 O.
    Mark row complete
  8. Row 8: 18 O. 4 dc, ch 3, 1 dc.
    Mark row complete
  9. This ends the point; commence again at Row 1, and — for this size cloth — work 16 points.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Work 37 ch, 6 ch to turn, 4 dc into the next 4 ch, and 11 open spaces on to the chain, 6 ch to turn.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the The Lace Edging for a Handsome Runner pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Turning the pattern at the end of the 16th point
  • The pattern lying in the opposite direction
  • Finishing

Included with 618 patterns for $9 — $0.01 per pattern.

See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage edgings and trims collection: narrow crochet lace strips on folded linen

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the The Lace Edging pattern from?

It was published as "The Lace Edging" in Beautiful Crochet on Household Linen (The Home Art Series, edited by Flora Klickmann) by The Office of “The Girl's Own Paper & Woman's Magazine”, 4 Bouverie Street E.C., & 65 St. Paul's Churchyard, London. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the The Lace Edging?

About size 30 to 40 crochet cotton (the book prints No. 36, a size between the two modern steps). Not printed; see modernisation notes.

What hook should I use?

Start with about 1.4 mm (US steel 7) — ours, approximate. The book prints only a maker's thread number and no hook. Change size until the fabric is firm and even. Gauge: Not printed; work a sample and change hook size to suit.

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