Free preview · full pattern in the Vintage Crochet Stoles & Shawls

Three-Cornered Shawl in Grandmother’s Stitch (1915): vintage crochet pattern

A triangular Germantown shawl worked from the neck in a variation of the book's grandmother's stitch, shaped with increases at the center and ends, with a gray and purple striped border, a shell front edging and fringe on the two sides.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Three-Cornered Shawl as photographed in the book
Gray · PurpleSave to Pinterest
Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelIntermediate
Yarn weightLight (#3)
Yardagethe book gives 8 skeins Gray and 2 skeins Purple Four-fold Germantown; skein weight and yardage are not stated. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook4.5 mm
GaugeNo stitch gauge printed.
Finished sizeWoman's shawl; measurements not printed. Worked from a 44-ch neck edge; fringe cut 8 in (20 cm).
Timeabout 5 hours

Materials

  • Light (CYC #3) wool yarn — the original was Sunlight Four-fold Germantown: 8 skeins of one color (Gray in the directions) and 2 skeins of a different color (Purple)
  • Crochet hook (original: 10-inch bone No. 5)
  • Tapestry needle
  • Hook: Start with 4.5 mm (US 7) — approximate; no gauge or finished size is printed
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Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #3 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft Light · 100% Premium Acrylic

330 yds per skein · Gentle sheen, ultra soft against skin

2 skeins required

approx. $$11.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
single crochet
double crochet
stitch
stitches
loop
space
yarn over
increase
repeat
row
skip

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Three-Cornered Shawl", The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting, W. G. Perry, Chicago, 1915. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown; 8 skeins one color; 2 skeins different color; 1 10-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 5. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own definitions (“First Stitches — Crocheting”), not by name: chain stitch (“make a chain of loops, pulling out 1 loop through the other”) = ch; slip stitch (“place the hook in a loop on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle at once”) = sl st; single crochet (“take up 1 loop on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle at once”) = sc; double crochet (“put yarn around hook, take up 1 loop on the chain, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops at a time”) = dc; long crochet (yarn over, pick up a loop, yarn over and pull through 1 loop, then through 2 loops twice) = modern extended double crochet, not used in these designs; treble crochet (“put yarn around hook twice”, pick up a loop, then pull through 2 loops three times) = tr. For these stitches the 1915 American names already match modern US usage, so no stitch changes height.
  • Modernisation note: The book prints no abbreviations (“No abbreviations are used in this book”); its words are written as modern US abbreviations: chain = ch, slip stitch = sl st, single crochet = sc, double crochet = dc, treble crochet = tr, stitch(es) = st(s), skip = sk, space = sp, loop = lp, yarn over hook = yo, repeat = rep. “Needle” (used for the crochet hook) is written as hook; “take up / pick up 1 loop” as “draw up a lp”; “break off the yarn” as “fasten off”; “fasten the yarn” as “join yarn”; ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2nd row”) as Row 1, Row 2.
  • Modernisation note: “Taking up in the double stitch” (the book's phrase for inserting the hook under both top loops of the stitch below) is written as “through both loops”; “taking up in the back of the stitches” is written as “in back loop only (blo)”. “Plain” (a row with no increases, or 1 sc in every st) is kept and explained where it first appears.
  • Modernisation note: The book's own rule for the asterisk is kept: “A star (*) is often used before and after a group of words to indicate that the work described between the stars must be repeated.” Repeats are written “rep from *” as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts unchanged. Section headings added for navigation. The book calls rounds “rows” and ridges of 2 rows “ribs”; both words are kept as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Hook numbers (bone, amber, celluloid and steel, with steel “Style” numbers) refer to the book's actual-size pictures of 1915 hooks, which print no diameters, so no exact metric size can be read from the book. The suggested modern hook is an approximate starting point chosen for the yarn weight and tied to any printed measurement.
  • Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed anywhere in the book; work a swatch and match any printed measurement (given in the modern gauge line) before starting.
  • Modernisation note: Sunlight yarns are 1915 trade names with no exact modern equivalent. The CYC weights given are approximations only, based on the book's own descriptions: Saxony (“a fine, soft, three-ply thread”) as super fine (CYC #1); Shetland Floss (“a very lofty, fluffy yarn”) as fine (CYC #2); Four-fold Germantown as light (CYC #3); Eight-fold Germantown (“about twice as heavy” as the four-fold) as medium (CYC #4); Golf Yarn (“a four-ply, lofty yarn”) and German Knitting Worsted/Yarn as medium (CYC #4). Yardage is never printed — the book gives skeins (or balls) only, and their weight and length are not stated.
  • Modernisation note: The directions are “Written for gray and purple”. The design says “For detail, see Grandmother’s Stitch, page 17”; the book's definition is transcribed first so the pattern stands alone. The shawl's own stitch is a variant (ch 1 between, and its 1st loop drawn up in the same place as the previous stitch).
  • Modernisation note: Check: the printed order of the shaping directions is unusual — the Row 3 paragraph continues with later-row rules (“Repeat these 2 last rows in center until you have 12 rows”) before “4th row: Increase 2 stitches on each side. No more increasing”. The rows are kept in printed order; the side increases appear to stop after Row 4 while the center shaping continues.
  • Modernisation note: Check: “Work 20 rows in gray” may be the total rows before the border rather than 20 more rows. Left as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 3 done (0%)

Grandmother’s Stitch (the book's Detail Stitch, for reference)

0 of 3 done
  1. Make a chain the length required.
    Mark row complete
  2. Row 1: Yo and draw up 1 lp in the 4th ch from the hook, yo and draw up another lp in the next ch; now yo and draw through 4 lps, yo and draw through 2 lps and ch 1. Rep the stitch to end of row, working into every ch; turn.
    Mark row complete
  3. Row 2: Draw out the lp on the hook, yo and draw up the 1st lp in the ch-1 below, yo and draw up the 2nd lp between the 1st and 2nd stitch on the row below. Draw through as before and rep for the work, always drawing up the lps for the stitch on each side of the stitch below.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Make a chain the length required.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Three-Cornered Shawl in Grandmother’s Stitch (1915) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Stoles & Shawls

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Shawl (Gray)
  • Border
  • Finishing

Included with 31 patterns for $12 — $0.39 per pattern.

See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage stoles and shawls collection: a lacy crochet stole in soft cream yarn

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the Three-Cornered Shawl pattern from?

It was published as "Three-Cornered Shawl" in The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting by W. G. Perry, Chicago in 1915. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Three-Cornered Shawl?

light (#3) yarn. Not printed — the book gives 8 skeins Gray and 2 skeins Purple Four-fold Germantown; skein weight and yardage are not stated.

What hook should I use?

Start with 4.5 mm (US 7) — approximate; no gauge or finished size is printed Gauge: No stitch gauge printed.

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