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Scarlet and Gold Striped Bag (1847): vintage crochet pattern

An easy but elegant Victorian bag in upright stripes: fifteen-row scarlet bands edged in gold, alternating with two rows of gold treble open crochet on each side, made up as the bag in stripes before it. Originally published as "A similar Bag" in My Crochet Sampler (Miss Lambert) by D. M. Peyser in 1847, it is now in.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Illustration of Scarlet and Gold Striped Bag (1847): vintage crochet pattern
Scarlet · Gold (metallic)Save to Pinterest
Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelIntermediate
Yarn weightLace (#0)
YardageNot printed. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook1.5 mm
GaugeNot printed. Work to the size of the article; the book sizes by counted stitches or measurement.
Finished sizeNot printed; made like the bag in stripes (about 6 in / 15 cm square).
Timeabout 3 hours

Materials

  • Silk thread about the thickness of size 10 crochet thread, approximating netting silk, in scarlet
  • Metallic gold thread or cord of similar thickness to the silk
  • Lining, strings and tassels
  • Tapestry needle for weaving in (“running”) the ends
  • Hook: Start with a 1.5 mm (US steel 8) hook and adjust to suit your thread; no hook size or gauge is printed.
Smart Yarn Matcher

Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
single crochet
double crochet
stitch
stitches
row
skip

Notes before you start

  • Source: "A similar Bag", My Crochet Sampler (Miss Lambert), D. M. Peyser, 1847. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: scarlet; gold. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Victorian stitch names converted to modern US terms strictly by the book's own definitions (pp. 15–21, 57), not by modern UK equivalents: “plain double crochet”, “plain crochet”, “plain stitch” and “plain stitch double crochet” = sc; “plain single crochet” = sl st; “chain” = ch; “open crochet” = dc with ch 1 over a skipped st; the “double stitches” / “long stitches” of open crochet = dc; “double open crochet” = pairs of dc with an open space; “treble open crochet” = groups of 3 dc alternating with open spaces; “plain stitch open crochet” = ch-5 loops joined by sc to the centre of the loops below; “dividing”, “seam” or “raised” stitch = 2 sc in one st under both loops, stacked; “treble increased stitch” = 3 sc in one st; “double stitch crochet” = sc under both loops; “raised” or “ribbed” crochet and “plain stitch elastic crochet” = sc in back loop only, turning each row; “to increase” = 2 sc in one st; “to decrease” = sc2tog or sk 1; “to make a stitch” = ch 1 at each end of the row; “fasten off” = draw the yarn through the last st; “fasten on” = lay the new end along the work and crochet over both; “run the ends” = weave in ends. Note that the book's “double crochet” is a modern sc, and its “treble” never means a modern tr.
  • Modernisation note: The book implies that ordinary plain crochet picks up only one loop of the stitch below (the seam stitch is made “under both loops instead of one”, and “double stitch crochet” takes “both meshes”), but it never says which loop. Instructions say sc. Check: for the period texture, try working through one loop as the book implies.
  • Modernisation note: Period wording modernised: “needle” / “crochet needle” written as “hook”; “commence” as “begin”; “unite the ends” / “join both ends together” as “join into a ring” (the book does not name the joining stitch); “a chain and first row” as “ch, then Row 1”; “cheques” as “checks”. The book says “row” even when working round and round; “row” is kept as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Printed paragraphs split into one step per row or instruction; no colours, counts or rows added, removed or reordered. Colour-sequence rows are written as “Row 4 (sc): 1 light green, 1 black, 5 red brown …”, meaning that many sc in each colour, in order.
  • Modernisation note: Period silks have no exact modern equivalent. The book's hints (p. 22) rank them: crochet silk is “the coarsest” and best for bags; second-sized netting silk is “prettiest for purses”; fine netting silk and reel silk are finer. The modern silk or crochet-thread sizes given are approximations.
  • Modernisation note: “Gold”, “gold cord”, “gold thread” and “gold passing” were metallic threads; use a modern metallic thread or cord of about the same thickness as the silk or wool.
  • Modernisation note: No hook (needle) size and no gauge is printed — the book names only “steel” or “ivory” needles. The modern starting hook is an approximate suggestion only.
  • Modernisation note: No yardage is printed and none is estimated.
  • Modernisation note: Colour swatches are approximate modern readings of the period colour names; they are not in the book. “Gold colour” is a golden-yellow yarn, whereas “gold” on its own in the silk designs means metallic gold thread or cord. “Ponceau” is poppy red, “drab” a dull greyish brown, “stone colour” a pale greyish beige, “claret” a deep wine red. By the book's own definitions (p. 24), “chiné” yarn is dyed in two or more colours at intervals along one thread, and “ombré” yarn shades gradually from light to dark in one colour.
  • Modernisation note: Check: no silk or foundation length is named; netting silk and the preceding bag's 12 in (30 cm) chain are the nearest guides.
  • Modernisation note: Finishing taken from the preceding bag, which the book refers to (“arranged as in the preceding example”).
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 2 done (0%)

Stitches

0 of 2 done
  1. Stitch (book's definition): “Plain double crochet,—where two loops are kept on the needle, and the wool drawn through both before the stitch is finished” = single crochet (sc). The book adds that “unless any other stitch be mentioned, the plain, or double crochet stitch, is always to be employed”, so every stitch in these directions is sc unless another stitch is named. A “plain row” is a row of sc in one colour.
    Mark row complete
  2. Stitch (book's definition, “Treble open crochet”): “also similar to the preceding, but varied by making three stitches successively, without making any plain stitch, which produces alternate squares of open space and stitches.” = groups of 3 dc worked in consecutive sts, alternating with open spaces. Check: the book gives no chain count for the open space; engraving No. 4 shows the spaces about as wide as the 3-dc blocks, with blocks and spaces alternating from row to row like a chequerboard (so ch 3, sk 3, with each block worked over the space below, matches the engraving). Beads, if used, go on the middle dc of each block.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Stitch (book's definition): “Plain double crochet,—where two loops are kept on the needle, and the wool drawn through both before the stitch is finished” = single crochet (sc). The book adds that “unless any other stitch be mentioned, the plain, or double crochet stitch, is always to be employed”, so every stitch in these directions is sc unless another stitch is named. A “plain row” is a row of sc in one colour.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Scarlet and Gold Striped Bag (1847) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Hats, Bags & Accessories

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Band
  • Finishing

Included with 202 patterns for $12 — $0.06 per pattern.

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Cover artwork for the vintage hats and accessories collection: a crochet hat, purse and slippers

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the A similar Bag pattern from?

It was published as "A similar Bag" in My Crochet Sampler (Miss Lambert) by D. M. Peyser in 1847. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the A similar Bag?

Silk thread comparable to size 10 crochet thread (period: netting silk). Not printed.

What hook should I use?

Start with a 1.5 mm (US steel 8) hook and adjust to suit your thread; no hook size or gauge is printed. Gauge: Not printed. Work to the size of the article; the book sizes by counted stitches or measurement.

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