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Sofa Pillow in Plain and Treble Open Crochet (1847): vintage crochet pattern

A Victorian sofa pillow in double German wool: five-row shaded stripes of scarlet, white, lilac and gold colour in single crochet, divided by black rows and six-colour stripes of treble open crochet, then reversed. Originally published as "A Sofa Pillow in Plain and Treble Open Crochet" in My Crochet Sampler (Miss Lambert) by D. M. Peyser in 1847.

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Illustration of Sofa Pillow in Plain and Treble Open Crochet (1847): vintage crochet pattern
Black · Scarlet · White · Lilac · Gold colour · Chrysophas greenSave to Pinterest
Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelIntermediate
Yarn weightFine (#2)
YardageNot printed. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook3.75 mm
GaugeNot printed. Work to the size of the article; the book sizes by counted stitches or measurement.
Finished sizeNot printed (about 190 ch foundation).
Timeabout 4 hours

Materials

  • Sport-weight (CYC #2) wool, similar to double German wool / zephyr: black; 3 distinct shades each of scarlet, white, lilac and gold colour; chrysophas green, scarlet, white, gold colour and lilac for the open stripe
  • Tapestry needle for weaving in (“running”) the ends
  • Hook: Start with 3.75 mm (US F-5) and adjust to suit your yarn; no hook size or gauge is printed.
Smart Yarn Matcher

Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #2 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Lion Brand Coboo · 50% Cotton, 50% Bamboo

232 yds per skein · Silky breathable drape, lovely stitch shine

2 skeins required

approx. $$12.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
single crochet
double crochet
stitch
stitches
row
repeat
skip

Notes before you start

  • Source: "A Sofa Pillow in Plain and Treble Open Crochet", My Crochet Sampler (Miss Lambert), D. M. Peyser, 1847. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: double German wool. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Victorian stitch names converted to modern US terms strictly by the book's own definitions (pp. 15–21, 57), not by modern UK equivalents: “plain double crochet”, “plain crochet”, “plain stitch” and “plain stitch double crochet” = sc; “plain single crochet” = sl st; “chain” = ch; “open crochet” = dc with ch 1 over a skipped st; the “double stitches” / “long stitches” of open crochet = dc; “double open crochet” = pairs of dc with an open space; “treble open crochet” = groups of 3 dc alternating with open spaces; “plain stitch open crochet” = ch-5 loops joined by sc to the centre of the loops below; “dividing”, “seam” or “raised” stitch = 2 sc in one st under both loops, stacked; “treble increased stitch” = 3 sc in one st; “double stitch crochet” = sc under both loops; “raised” or “ribbed” crochet and “plain stitch elastic crochet” = sc in back loop only, turning each row; “to increase” = 2 sc in one st; “to decrease” = sc2tog or sk 1; “to make a stitch” = ch 1 at each end of the row; “fasten off” = draw the yarn through the last st; “fasten on” = lay the new end along the work and crochet over both; “run the ends” = weave in ends. Note that the book's “double crochet” is a modern sc, and its “treble” never means a modern tr.
  • Modernisation note: The book implies that ordinary plain crochet picks up only one loop of the stitch below (the seam stitch is made “under both loops instead of one”, and “double stitch crochet” takes “both meshes”), but it never says which loop. Instructions say sc. Check: for the period texture, try working through one loop as the book implies.
  • Modernisation note: Period wording modernised: “needle” / “crochet needle” written as “hook”; “commence” as “begin”; “unite the ends” / “join both ends together” as “join into a ring” (the book does not name the joining stitch); “a chain and first row” as “ch, then Row 1”; “cheques” as “checks”. The book says “row” even when working round and round; “row” is kept as printed.
  • Modernisation note: Printed paragraphs split into one step per row or instruction; no colours, counts or rows added, removed or reordered. Colour-sequence rows are written as “Row 4 (sc): 1 light green, 1 black, 5 red brown …”, meaning that many sc in each colour, in order.
  • Modernisation note: “German wool” (the fine worsted-spun Berlin wool) and single “zephyr” are approximated as fingering-weight (CYC #1) wool; “double German wool” and “Zephyr, or double German wool” as sport-weight (CYC #2) wool.
  • Modernisation note: No hook (needle) size and no gauge is printed — the book names only “steel” or “ivory” needles. The modern starting hook is an approximate suggestion only.
  • Modernisation note: No yardage is printed and none is estimated.
  • Modernisation note: Colour swatches are approximate modern readings of the period colour names; they are not in the book. “Gold colour” is a golden-yellow yarn, whereas “gold” on its own in the silk designs means metallic gold thread or cord. “Ponceau” is poppy red, “drab” a dull greyish brown, “stone colour” a pale greyish beige, “claret” a deep wine red. By the book's own definitions (p. 24), “chiné” yarn is dyed in two or more colours at intervals along one thread, and “ombré” yarn shades gradually from light to dark in one colour.
  • Modernisation note: “Chrysophas green” is kept as printed (presumably chrysoprase, a light apple green).
  • Modernisation note: Check: the book says “commence with a chain of about one hundred and ninety stitches in black. Then,—” and later “repeat the black row”, so a first black row on the chain is implied but not stated.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the shaded 5-row stripe with 3 shades is read as dark, middle, light, middle, dark.
  • Modernisation note: “Weave in ends” added.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 2 done (0%)

Stitches

0 of 2 done
  1. Stitch (book's definition): “Plain double crochet,—where two loops are kept on the needle, and the wool drawn through both before the stitch is finished” = single crochet (sc). The book adds that “unless any other stitch be mentioned, the plain, or double crochet stitch, is always to be employed”, so every stitch in these directions is sc unless another stitch is named. A “plain row” is a row of sc in one colour.
    Mark row complete
  2. Stitch (book's definition, “Treble open crochet”): “also similar to the preceding, but varied by making three stitches successively, without making any plain stitch, which produces alternate squares of open space and stitches.” = groups of 3 dc worked in consecutive sts, alternating with open spaces. Check: the book gives no chain count for the open space; engraving No. 4 shows the spaces about as wide as the 3-dc blocks, with blocks and spaces alternating from row to row like a chequerboard (so ch 3, sk 3, with each block worked over the space below, matches the engraving). Beads, if used, go on the middle dc of each block.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Stitch (book's definition): “Plain double crochet,—where two loops are kept on the needle, and the wool drawn through both before the stitch is finished” = single crochet (sc). The book adds that “unless any other stitch be mentioned, the plain, or double crochet stitch, is always to be employed”, so every stitch in these directions is sc unless another stitch is named. A “plain row” is a row of sc in one colour.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Sofa Pillow in Plain and Treble Open Crochet (1847) pattern is in the Heirloom Doilies & Tablecloths

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • First half
  • Second half
  • Finishing

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See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage doilies and tablecloths collection: lace doilies in fine cotton thread with a steel hook

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the A Sofa Pillow in Plain and Treble Open Crochet pattern from?

It was published as "A Sofa Pillow in Plain and Treble Open Crochet" in My Crochet Sampler (Miss Lambert) by D. M. Peyser in 1847. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the A Sofa Pillow in Plain and Treble Open Crochet?

fine (#2) yarn. Not printed.

What hook should I use?

Start with 3.75 mm (US F-5) and adjust to suit your yarn; no hook size or gauge is printed. Gauge: Not printed. Work to the size of the article; the book sizes by counted stitches or measurement.

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