Hardanger Crochet Linen Edge, Fig. 13 (1915): vintage crochet pattern

Materials

• A hemmed linen piece with two threads withdrawn about 6 mm (1/4 in) from the edge, as printed
• Size 30 mercerized cotton crochet thread — approximate and ours; the book prints no thread number
• Steel crochet hook
• Tapestry needle for the ends
• Hook: Start with a 1.25 mm (US steel 8) hook — approximate, and ours: the book prints no hook size. Change size until the lace lies flat.

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch

chain

sc

single crochet

lp

loop

st

stitch

rep

repeat

FO

fasten off

Notes before you start

• Source: "Fig. 13, Hardanger Crochet" (Fig. 13), The Rundall Book of Edgings, Medallions, Insertions and Tatting, The Needlework Co., Marion, Iowa, 1915. Public domain in the USA.
• As printed — materials: Linen, hemmed once, with two threads drawn about one-fourth inch from the edge — the only material the book specifies for any design; No thread number and no hook size are printed.. Gauge: Not given.
• Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own key (“ABBREVIATIONS”, scan page p-04, images/p-04.jpg), not by the look of the abbreviation or the date. The key is six lines: “ch. chain; sl. st. slip stitch; s. c. single crochet; d. c. double crochet (thread over hook once); t. c. treble crochet (thread over hook twice); st. stitch.” The two parentheses settle the ladder as MODERN US. “Thread over hook once” rules out the British convention, in which a double crochet takes no wrap at all and is the US single crochet — so this book is not British-style, unlike the 1913–1916 Priscilla books elsewhere in this collection. And because the key lists only four worked stitches and prints no half double crochet and no abbreviation for one, there is no room for the reading that Clark's 1923 printing elsewhere in this collection invites, where “D c” is a modern half double. So d. c. is the modern US double crochet and is written dc here, and t. c. at two wraps is the modern US treble, written tr. The key names s. c. without defining it; it is read as the modern US single crochet, which the book's own arithmetic confirms (see the note on stitch counts).
• Modernisation note: Check: the key names “s. c. single crochet” but does not define the movement, so it was confirmed from the working rows rather than assumed. Fig. 12's second row covers a ring in 5 s. c. to each of eight ch-3 spaces, forty stitches in all, and the third row then works 48 d. c. round the same circle — a count that only works if s. c. is the short stitch and d. c. the tall one. Fig. 9's first row steps its groups five chains apart from a foundation of 26, which agrees. s. c. is therefore the modern US single crochet throughout and is written sc.
• Modernisation note: Check: the book uses “picot” constantly but NEVER defines it and never states how many chains a picot takes — it is not in the abbreviations list and there is no general note. No picot length has been invented here. Work the picot at whatever length suits the thread, keeping it the same throughout the piece, and note that the number of picots the book asks for is printed and is reproduced exactly.
• Modernisation note: The book's wording is written in modern US form: ch. = ch; sl. st. = sl st; s. c. = sc; d. c. = dc; t. c. = tr; st. = st. “Needle” is the book's word for the crochet hook throughout and is written hook. “In 4th st. from needle” is written as 4th ch from hook. “Join” is written join or sl st to join according to what the row is doing, and “continue” is written as a repeat instruction.
• Modernisation note: The printed paragraphs are split into one row or round per line; stitch order and counts are unchanged. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2nd row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, and where the book calls a round a “row” while working in a ring, the note on that pattern says so. Section headings are added for navigation. The OCR of this scan garbles letters badly — it prints “d. c.” as “d. e.”, “ch.” as “eh.”, “1st” as “Ist” or “dst” and “join” as “jom” — and those quirks are kept in the excerpts and not in the rows, where the page image was used instead.
• Modernisation note: No materials are printed for this design. The book gives no thread brand, no thread number, no hook size, no gauge and no finished measurement anywhere in its pages — its entire front matter is the copyright line and the abbreviations list. Every modern thread size and hook suggested here is ours and approximate, read across from the scale of the photographed lace, not from the page.
• Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design; the book prints no gauge or tension anywhere, and no finished size either. Work a sample first and change hook size until the lace lies flat and the scallops do not cup.
• Modernisation note: No yardage is printed for this design. The book gives no quantity of thread for any design, so none is given here.
• Modernisation note: Check: no colour is printed for this design. The book names no colour anywhere. The plates photograph as a plain light thread against a dark ground, which is how the colour below is described.
• Modernisation note: Check: the quarter inch is the book's own printed measurement and is the ONLY dimension printed anywhere in this book; the metric conversion beside it is ours. Nothing else about the linen — its size, its count, its finished depth — is printed, and nothing has been supplied.
• Modernisation note: Check: the book prints this as one unbroken paragraph with no row numbers at all. It is split above at the book's own natural breaks, each break falling where the loop is drawn through a new stitch of the linen; no step has been added, removed or renumbered.
• Modernisation note: Check: the book heads this design “HARDANGER CROCHET”. That is the book's own name for it and is kept; the technique is drawn-thread work with a crochet edge, not the embroidery usually meant by that word today.
• Modernisation note: Check: the book prints no repeat count and ends at “continue”. The repeat above is the book's own word.