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Crocheted Silk Knee Bootees No. 15-6-11 (1915): vintage crochet pattern

Long silk bootees worked in single crochet: the leg is widened from 36 to 64 stitches, worked straight for twenty-eight rows, then narrowed to 50 and finished with an eyelet row; a vamp of twenty-eight rows is worked on the middle stitches, and the foot is worked round and closed by crocheting the two sides together at the sole.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Crocheted Silk Knee Bootees No. 15-6-11 — directions page with the finished bootees photographed
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Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelIntermediate
Yarn weightLace (#0)
YardageNot printed; see modernisation notes. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook1.5 mm
GaugeNot printed; work a sample and change hook size to suit.
Finished sizeNot printed; the bootees are set by their counts — a leg widened to 64 stitches and a foot of about 104 stitches in the round.
Timeabout 6 hours

Materials

  • A fine crochet silk, or about a size 10 mercerised cotton crochet thread, in place of the book's crochet silk — ours, approximate
  • 6-strand embroidery floss or twisted embroidery silk for the worked flowers
  • Ribbon and narrow lace as the design calls for, and lining silk where the book lines the piece
  • Hook: Start with about 1.5 mm (US steel 8) — ours, approximate. The book prints a steel hook No. 8 or No. 9, which is a period maker's number and not the modern scale. Change size until the fabric is close and even.
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Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
single crochet
double crochet
slip stitch
stitch
stitches
skip
repeat
row
round
space
increase
decrease

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Crocheted Silk Knee Bootees No. 15-6-11" (No. 15-6-11), The Priscilla Baby Book No. 1: A Collection of Babies' Garments in Knitting and Crochet with Directions for Making (by Elsa Barsaloux), The Priscilla Publishing Company, 85 Broad Street, Boston, Mass., 1915. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: 1½ spools white crochet silk.; 1 spool pink crochet silk.; 1 skein, each, pink and green rope silk.; 1 steel crochet-hook No. 8.; 2 yards narrow ribbon to trim.. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own key (“Explanation of Stitches”, book page 3, image p-05.jpg), not by stitch name. The key is unusually explicit and settles the naming without guesswork. It defines “Double (d)” as: having a loop on the hook, put hook through work, draw thread through work making two loops on the hook, thread over again and through both loops — and it then says in so many words that this stitch has been called “single crochet”, especially in wool crochet, but that for the sake of standardising the terms it is called “double”, after the custom of workers in Irish crochet, eliminating entirely the name “single”. So the book's d is the modern US single crochet, stated outright rather than inferred. “Half Treble (h t)” takes one thread over, hook through work, thread over and through work giving three stitches on the hook, then thread over and through all three at once — the modern US half double crochet. “Treble (t)” takes one thread over, three stitches on the hook, off two and off two — the modern US double crochet. “Double Treble (d t)” takes thread over twice, four stitches on the hook, worked off two at a time — the modern US treble. “Long Treble (l t) or Triple Treble (t t)” takes thread over three times, five stitches on the hook, worked off by twos — the modern US double treble, with the key's own note that “l t” is used for anything longer than d t and the number of loops is then stated in the design. So this 1915 Priscilla book uses the older British heights, exactly like the 1913, 1915 and 1916 Priscilla crochet books in this repository and unlike the 1911 Priscilla Filet book: throughout this transcription the book's d is written sc, its h t is written hdc, its t is written dc, its d t is written tr, and its l t or t t is written dtr.
  • Modernisation note: Shell is the book's own (same key, book page 3): a group of trebles, ch 1 or more, then the same number of trebles, all worked in the same stitch or over the same chain, the key's example being (4 t, ch 3, 4 t). The number of trebles and the number of chain vary by design, and each design's own count is kept. Because the book's treble is the modern US double crochet, every shell here is a shell of dc. Many designs in this book also use the word “shell” loosely for a plain group of trebles worked into one place with no chain between, and where that is what the design prints, that is what is written here.
  • Modernisation note: The book's shorthand is written in modern US form: ch = ch, sl = sl st, d = sc, h t = hdc, t = dc, d t = tr, l t and t t = dtr, p = picot, st(s) = st(s), sp = space. “Miss” is written sk; “wool over” and “silk over” are written yo, with the material named where the design changes between wool and silk mid-stitch; “repeat from *” is written rep from *. Ordinal row names (“1st Row”, “2d row”, “3d row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, Row 3, and where the book calls a circuit worked in the round a “row”, it is written Rnd and the change is noted.
  • Modernisation note: The printed directions run as solid paragraphs under one DIRECTIONS heading per design; they are split here into one row, round or step per line, with the book's own sub-headings (Yoke, Body, Sleeves, Cuffs, Collar, Edge and so on) kept as section headings. Stitch order and counts are unchanged.
  • Modernisation note: The scanned text of this book carries the usual optical-reading slips, and where a figure below looks odd it has been read back against the page image: the scan's “4o”, “3o”, “2oth”, “6oth” and the like are 40, 30, 20th and 60th, its “rst”, “ist” and “Ist” are 1st, its “gth” is 4th or 9th according to the sequence, its “tr” in a stitch count is 11, and its “Sth” is 8th. The row numbers below follow the sequence the printed page actually shows.
  • Modernisation note: Materials are listed exactly as printed. The book's own IMPORTANT note (book page 3) explains two of its names: Lady Wool was chosen for its special softness for baby garments and may be found in shops under the names Lady Alice, Lady Jane, Ladyfair, Lady Grey and Lady Betty; and “the crochet wool mentioned is the same as the soft fine twofold Saxony, Zephyr Shetland, or Shetland Zephyr and Superfine Crochet”. Rope silk and twisted silk are the book's embroidery silks; crochet silk is its fine thread for the silk edges.
  • Modernisation note: Hooks are printed only as period maker's numbers — bone, celluloid and amber hooks No. 3, No. 4 and No. 5 for the wool, and steel hooks No. 6 to No. 9 for the silk — with no diameters, and those numbers do not map onto the modern scale. Any metric size given in the modern materials is ours and is a starting point only.
  • Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design, or for any design in the book. The book's own caution (book page 3) is the only guidance it gives: when wool is used the crocheting should not be too tight, nor loose enough to be sloppy, but loose enough to show the beauty of the wool, and all the garments were made at that tension. Work a sample and change hook size to suit.
  • Modernisation note: No yardage is estimated. The book counts skeins, spools and yards of ribbon and lace, but never prints a skein or spool length, so there is no printed basis for a yardage figure and none is invented here.
  • Modernisation note: No finished measurement is printed for this design. The book gives sizes for almost nothing it makes — the pieces are infant-sized and are worked to the stitch and row counts printed.
  • Modernisation note: The book's Fig. 8 shows its method of working the lazy-daisy flower. That is embroidery, not crochet, and it is left optional here.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the scan runs the last four rounds of the top edge across two columns, so that the tail of Rnd 3 and the whole of Rnds 4 and 5 appear after the vamp and foot paragraphs. They have been read back from the page image and set in their printed order above.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 5 done (0%)

Leg

0 of 5 done
  1. Row 1: with white silk, ch 37, turn, sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of 36 sts. Turn, ch 1.
    Mark row complete
  2. Row 2: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each st, 2 sc in the last st of the row. Turn, ch 1.
    Mark row complete
  3. Row 3: 1 sc in each st. Turn, ch 1.
    Mark row complete
  4. Rep Rows 2 and 3 alternately until there are 64 sts in the row. Turn, ch 1.
    Mark row complete
  5. Work 28 more rows, having 64 sts in the row.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Row 1: with white silk, ch 37, turn, sk 1 st, 1 sc in each of 36 sts. Turn, ch 1.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Crocheted Silk Knee Bootees No. 15-6-11 (1915) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Baby & Kids' Patterns

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • To shape leg
  • Vamp
  • Foot
  • Edge around top
  • Finishing

Included with 133 patterns for $12 — $0.09 per pattern.

See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage baby sets collection: a crochet bonnet, booties and sacque in soft yarn

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the Crocheted Silk Knee Bootees No. 15-6-11 pattern from?

It was published as "Crocheted Silk Knee Bootees No. 15-6-11" in The Priscilla Baby Book No. 1: A Collection of Babies' Garments in Knitting and Crochet with Directions for Making (by Elsa Barsaloux) by The Priscilla Publishing Company, 85 Broad Street, Boston, Mass. in 1915. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Crocheted Silk Knee Bootees No. 15-6-11?

About size 10 crochet thread (approximate stand-in for the book's crochet silk). Not printed; see modernisation notes.

What hook should I use?

Start with about 1.5 mm (US steel 8) — ours, approximate. The book prints a steel hook No. 8 or No. 9, which is a period maker's number and not the modern scale. Change size until the fabric is close and even. Gauge: Not printed; work a sample and change hook size to suit.

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